06/08/2013
Apicius
222 Reviews
Apicius
Helpful Review
2
Something special for the summer
Does a summer fragrance necessarily have to be light and fresh? Heat and sun may call for olfactory refreshments, but on the other side – the summer is also the season of strong and expressive colours. So, what about an alternative concept?
For me, Ronaldo Esper's Millesimé is such a strong-coloured summer fragrance – it is not light and transparent at all, but rather strong and very much on the citric side. The citruses in it are something special. They remind me a lot of a delicious cough drop I used to get as a child ('Hustinetten'). I think that citral may be involved in both. The citric note which may also have to do with a variant of grapefruit blends together into a strange unity with a very strong note that I would identify as cardamom seed – but it also has a herbal appeal. Have you ever noticed that cardamom seeds give you something citric if you grind them between your fingers? When I first smelled this perfume, I even got impressions of a coffee note but that may be a bit farfetched. However, if a citrusy/lemony fragrance deserves the attribute 'dark' - then this one.
The citrus note from the beginning becomes more and more herbal and cardamom-like but that is the only development I get. Millesimé has Eau de Toilette strength and will be gone after about 5 hours.
This interpretation of a citric fragrance is absolutely rare in perfumery. I know of only one similar fragrance which also seems to have this unusual accord: Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake. The latter may be a bit more refined, even powdery whereas Millesimé has the stronger statement.
There are working days in summer when one has to be awake and fit despite the heat. IMHO, these days call for something energizing rather than anything else. Light citruses and aquatic freshness are often welcome but tend to lead one's mind astray – to beautiful beaches and holidays. This is not always appropriate. Ronaldo Esper's Millesimé is my preferred summer working day fragrance.
Unfortunately, the Ronaldo Esper fragrances are extremely rare. Ronaldo Esper seems to be a Brazilian fashion designer, but the perfumes distributed under that name apparently come from Italy. At least, Millesimé would also fit well into the concept of the typically Italian citrus fragrance as represented by Acqua di Parma, Acqua di Genova and others.
There are some doubts about the fragrance notes. The ones currently stated here at Parfumo come from the website of the perfume shop Parfümerie Wigger in Dortmund, Germany. Completely different notes are given by the Italian distributor Profumeria Gambarini.
Top: Grapefruit, Lime, Green tea
Middle: Cardamom, Cumin, Cinnamon
Base: Lebanon cedar, Ambergris, White musk
So, somebody must have used his imagination, and personally, I find both resources conclusive. Maybe, the truth lies somewhere in the middle.
Due to the lack of any advertisement, and the fact that the name Ronaldo Esper is completely unknown in most countries, these fragrances had no chance to become a commercial success. They were available a short time at First in Fragrance, then in very few perfume shops in Germany and I suppose, also Italy. These very repectable fragrances were soon sold off as snips and so I bought the complete series. I am not sure if they are still available somewhere but they should be worth inquiring for in Italy, at Profumeria Gambarini in Arona and La Bottega dei Profume in Forte dei Marmi.
Besides that Millesimé is well done and a joy to wear it is one of two highly unusual citric fragrances. This should justify a blind buy if one can find it. The regular price should be around 80 €. As my bottle of Millesimé is getting empty, please anybody give me a note if you find it somewhere.
For me, Ronaldo Esper's Millesimé is such a strong-coloured summer fragrance – it is not light and transparent at all, but rather strong and very much on the citric side. The citruses in it are something special. They remind me a lot of a delicious cough drop I used to get as a child ('Hustinetten'). I think that citral may be involved in both. The citric note which may also have to do with a variant of grapefruit blends together into a strange unity with a very strong note that I would identify as cardamom seed – but it also has a herbal appeal. Have you ever noticed that cardamom seeds give you something citric if you grind them between your fingers? When I first smelled this perfume, I even got impressions of a coffee note but that may be a bit farfetched. However, if a citrusy/lemony fragrance deserves the attribute 'dark' - then this one.
The citrus note from the beginning becomes more and more herbal and cardamom-like but that is the only development I get. Millesimé has Eau de Toilette strength and will be gone after about 5 hours.
This interpretation of a citric fragrance is absolutely rare in perfumery. I know of only one similar fragrance which also seems to have this unusual accord: Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake. The latter may be a bit more refined, even powdery whereas Millesimé has the stronger statement.
There are working days in summer when one has to be awake and fit despite the heat. IMHO, these days call for something energizing rather than anything else. Light citruses and aquatic freshness are often welcome but tend to lead one's mind astray – to beautiful beaches and holidays. This is not always appropriate. Ronaldo Esper's Millesimé is my preferred summer working day fragrance.
Unfortunately, the Ronaldo Esper fragrances are extremely rare. Ronaldo Esper seems to be a Brazilian fashion designer, but the perfumes distributed under that name apparently come from Italy. At least, Millesimé would also fit well into the concept of the typically Italian citrus fragrance as represented by Acqua di Parma, Acqua di Genova and others.
There are some doubts about the fragrance notes. The ones currently stated here at Parfumo come from the website of the perfume shop Parfümerie Wigger in Dortmund, Germany. Completely different notes are given by the Italian distributor Profumeria Gambarini.
Top: Grapefruit, Lime, Green tea
Middle: Cardamom, Cumin, Cinnamon
Base: Lebanon cedar, Ambergris, White musk
So, somebody must have used his imagination, and personally, I find both resources conclusive. Maybe, the truth lies somewhere in the middle.
Due to the lack of any advertisement, and the fact that the name Ronaldo Esper is completely unknown in most countries, these fragrances had no chance to become a commercial success. They were available a short time at First in Fragrance, then in very few perfume shops in Germany and I suppose, also Italy. These very repectable fragrances were soon sold off as snips and so I bought the complete series. I am not sure if they are still available somewhere but they should be worth inquiring for in Italy, at Profumeria Gambarini in Arona and La Bottega dei Profume in Forte dei Marmi.
Besides that Millesimé is well done and a joy to wear it is one of two highly unusual citric fragrances. This should justify a blind buy if one can find it. The regular price should be around 80 €. As my bottle of Millesimé is getting empty, please anybody give me a note if you find it somewhere.
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