L'Eau du Trente-Quatreby Diptyque (2013)
76 of 100%, 37 Ratings
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|20 - 40%||0|
|40 - 60%||6|
|60 - 80%||22|
|80 - 100%||9|
|Top Notes||Birch leaf, Verbena, Grapefruit, Lavender, Nutmeg, Bitter orange, Juniper berry, Cinnamon leaf, Lemon|
|Heart Notes||Geranium, Tuberose|
|Base Notes||Musk, Patchouli, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Cistus|
Researched and submitted by Kankuro
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Helpful Review - 03/11/2013
“A lively interpretation of the original 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, the new fragrance captures the essence of the original boutique, during the time when the weather changes and the greenest notes take over from the warmer and more sensual notes of 34 Boulevard Saint Germain.”
It’s as though nose Olivier Pescheux took all the unused notes from 34 Blvd. St. Germain he found laying around the lab and created L’Eau du Trente-Quatre. The differences are obvious right from the start. L’Eau du Trente-Quatre has a quality I haven't experienced in a Diptyque fragrance: an overt citrus opening. Of course, being Dyptique, it isn’t your run of the mill, obligatory lemon. It’s a wonderful accord of lemon and grapefruit that’s burnished with just a hint of bitter orange. Most fragrances open with citrus that smells like, for better or worse, a lemon. However, when L’Eau du Trente-Quatre opens it already smells like a perfume; the idealization of citrus. It’s the difference between a photograph of a lemon and an atmospheric, still life painting of citrus fruit.
From there the two fragrances diverge even further by developing in their own distinctive and interesting ways. 34 Blvd. St. Germain has an ever changing kaleidoscopic effect. Notes blossom and change in a seemingly random way. It’s a wonderfully unpredictable experience. But 34 Blvd. St. Germain is also a warm, cashmere sweater of a fragrance, thus the need for a “L’Eau” version.
L’Eau du Trente-Quatre, on the other hand, has a very open structure and develops in a way similar to the intent of Lavin’s Arpege, descending the steps of a musical arpeggio. The major notes and accords each have their time in the spotlight starting with the citrus top, descending to a nice rose-like floral accord of geranium and tuberose, warming with cinnamon leaf and a slightly sweet patchouli and then transitioning into the base which is an especially nice, natural, aromatic cedar. Through the entire development the grapefruit note sings a single, descant pitch above the descending arpeggio of notes creating a series of dissonances and cadences until we land on the tonic triad of grapefruit, sweet, light patchouli and aromatic cedar.
In a way -in a very subtle, peripheral way- this final phase reminds me of Hermes’ Pamplemousse Rose. Pamplemousse tends to be a love it or hate it sort of fragrance with its minimal notes being dominated by tart, sour grapefruit and Iso E Super cedar. L’Eau du Trente-Quatre is far more subtle and has a traditional, perfume elegance that wears lightly and cleanly.
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