06/12/2019
Profumo
59 Reviews
Translated
Show original
Profumo
Top Review
41
Après l'Ondée on speed!
Due to an ingredient I have made a big bow around this fragrance for years: Cashmeran.
With this light-woody, sweetly and musky smelling fragrance, which is said to have one thing in particular: But as much as I don't like the color beige, I associate cashmere with this color, as little as I like it cuddly - at least in olfactory terms.
But now I read somewhere that Fréderic Malle (like so many others!) thinks Cashmeran is great, and that he found a perfumer in Maurice Roucel who created a genuine Cashmeran scent for him.
Roucel, a master of sensual fragrances, just think of 'Musc Ravageur' or the EdC/EdP duo by Helmut Lang, was probably just the right choice to showcase this fragrance, which is very popular in modern men's perfumery.
Just as a sculptor carves a sculpture out of a block of marble, Maurice Roucel develops this wonderfully poetic scent 'Dans tes bras' out of a block of cashmere. But Cashmeran is obviously a material with which one can work very well because of its complexity and its richness of facets - at least that's how the master himself explains it.
And since Roucel himself composed the in-house 'Musc Ravageur', it was obvious to place the new fragrance in a closer relationship to this most successful Malle fragrance.
Sensuality paired with clear erotic vibes - keyword musk - should be the common basis, only the dosage form should be a completely opposite one: extroversion here (Musc Ravageur), introversion there (Dans tes bras).
Interestingly, 'Musc Ravageur' contains almost no musk, 'Dans tes bras' even more so. And this is how Roucel logically calls 'Dans tes bras' his actual musk masterpiece and not 'Musc Ravageur', which he describes as animalistic orientals with strong amber accents. Nevertheless 'Musc Ravageur' conveys in a very direct and erotic way the sensual-animalic side of the musk, while 'Dans tes bras', as the name wonderfully illustrates, rather emphasizes the quiet, intimate side.
The Cashmeran-Moschus duo now forms the centre and basis of the fragrance. It's cuddly and erotic, that it's a real pleasure! But luckily other guests are invited to the party and cross the cosy coziness wherever possible: smoky nuances waft through the light-woody facets of the cashmeran and some floral elements happily sprout out of its skin tone, especially violets or violet leaf and heliotrope. The former brings a floral freshness, while the latter exudes an almond-like aroma that harmonizes wonderfully with the vanilla skin notes of cashmeran, as well as the musk accents.
Here 'Dans tes bras' reminds me very strongly of Guerlain's 'Après l'ondée', but of an 'Après l'ondée' on Speed, because the heliotropin appears much more clearly and offensively in Malles scent than in the wonderful, in pastel tones kept quiet scent of Guerlain.
No, the colours of Maurice Roucel are really not pastel, as the whole fragrance is not really quiet at all, on the contrary. He turns up quite a bit at first, then becomes increasingly quieter, but has a good stamina and presence. Nor does it have the silky, veil-like texture of the Guerlain scent, but rather an almost strong, dense consistency. After all, those who lie in someone else's arms are not holding a finely woven silk scarf in their hands, but a warm, pulsating and firm body.
Here again 'Dans tes bras' differs from Roucel's earlier work for Helmut Lang. Its EdC, or EdP are considered rather as skin scents. Roucel reports about Helmut Lang's intentions: 'He wanted the scent of his lover's sweat ...erotic, musk, skin.'
As beautiful as he succeeded with the almost legendary Helmut Lang fragrances, with 'Dans tes bras' he has gone a decisive step further - here it doesn't smell quite as fresh, neat and clean anymore, here the animal power slumbers in secret, subcutaneously so to speak. And that, I think, is what makes this fragrance so special: the subliminal erotic vibrations that interweave this fragrance with a soft excitement.
So far, so beautiful. A successful skin scent, which wants to be more than the remains of a flown perfume on the skin, namely the scent of the skin itself, pulsating skin, excitement of sweaty skin, from skin to skin.
Of course, 'Dans tes bras' is only the abstract idea of a fragrant skin, the ideal case of fragrant skin, so to speak.
But what about the damned Cashmeran?
Well, I must confess, I don't think it's so bad here. Maurice Roucel has succeeded in giving the pale beige a darker complexion, taming the vanilla sweetness with floral contrasts, almost neutralizing it with salty leg notes, and giving the light-woody notes some character with fine incense streaks.
I still don't think it's great, but probably 'Dans tes bras' is the best thing that could happen to this synthetic and hybrid fabric.
When asked which of his fragrances Fréderic Malle would like a little more attention, he says in an interview once: this here.
Why is 'Dans tes bras' lacking in attention on the part of the inclined consumer public? I don't know.
But I feel 'Dans tes bras' as an intellectual, but not intellectual, extremely sensual scent, which however does not open up immediately and can even be perceived as bulky.
If you want to give it a chance: please test it several times, it's worth it.
The scent grows on the skin!
With this light-woody, sweetly and musky smelling fragrance, which is said to have one thing in particular: But as much as I don't like the color beige, I associate cashmere with this color, as little as I like it cuddly - at least in olfactory terms.
But now I read somewhere that Fréderic Malle (like so many others!) thinks Cashmeran is great, and that he found a perfumer in Maurice Roucel who created a genuine Cashmeran scent for him.
Roucel, a master of sensual fragrances, just think of 'Musc Ravageur' or the EdC/EdP duo by Helmut Lang, was probably just the right choice to showcase this fragrance, which is very popular in modern men's perfumery.
Just as a sculptor carves a sculpture out of a block of marble, Maurice Roucel develops this wonderfully poetic scent 'Dans tes bras' out of a block of cashmere. But Cashmeran is obviously a material with which one can work very well because of its complexity and its richness of facets - at least that's how the master himself explains it.
And since Roucel himself composed the in-house 'Musc Ravageur', it was obvious to place the new fragrance in a closer relationship to this most successful Malle fragrance.
Sensuality paired with clear erotic vibes - keyword musk - should be the common basis, only the dosage form should be a completely opposite one: extroversion here (Musc Ravageur), introversion there (Dans tes bras).
Interestingly, 'Musc Ravageur' contains almost no musk, 'Dans tes bras' even more so. And this is how Roucel logically calls 'Dans tes bras' his actual musk masterpiece and not 'Musc Ravageur', which he describes as animalistic orientals with strong amber accents. Nevertheless 'Musc Ravageur' conveys in a very direct and erotic way the sensual-animalic side of the musk, while 'Dans tes bras', as the name wonderfully illustrates, rather emphasizes the quiet, intimate side.
The Cashmeran-Moschus duo now forms the centre and basis of the fragrance. It's cuddly and erotic, that it's a real pleasure! But luckily other guests are invited to the party and cross the cosy coziness wherever possible: smoky nuances waft through the light-woody facets of the cashmeran and some floral elements happily sprout out of its skin tone, especially violets or violet leaf and heliotrope. The former brings a floral freshness, while the latter exudes an almond-like aroma that harmonizes wonderfully with the vanilla skin notes of cashmeran, as well as the musk accents.
Here 'Dans tes bras' reminds me very strongly of Guerlain's 'Après l'ondée', but of an 'Après l'ondée' on Speed, because the heliotropin appears much more clearly and offensively in Malles scent than in the wonderful, in pastel tones kept quiet scent of Guerlain.
No, the colours of Maurice Roucel are really not pastel, as the whole fragrance is not really quiet at all, on the contrary. He turns up quite a bit at first, then becomes increasingly quieter, but has a good stamina and presence. Nor does it have the silky, veil-like texture of the Guerlain scent, but rather an almost strong, dense consistency. After all, those who lie in someone else's arms are not holding a finely woven silk scarf in their hands, but a warm, pulsating and firm body.
Here again 'Dans tes bras' differs from Roucel's earlier work for Helmut Lang. Its EdC, or EdP are considered rather as skin scents. Roucel reports about Helmut Lang's intentions: 'He wanted the scent of his lover's sweat ...erotic, musk, skin.'
As beautiful as he succeeded with the almost legendary Helmut Lang fragrances, with 'Dans tes bras' he has gone a decisive step further - here it doesn't smell quite as fresh, neat and clean anymore, here the animal power slumbers in secret, subcutaneously so to speak. And that, I think, is what makes this fragrance so special: the subliminal erotic vibrations that interweave this fragrance with a soft excitement.
So far, so beautiful. A successful skin scent, which wants to be more than the remains of a flown perfume on the skin, namely the scent of the skin itself, pulsating skin, excitement of sweaty skin, from skin to skin.
Of course, 'Dans tes bras' is only the abstract idea of a fragrant skin, the ideal case of fragrant skin, so to speak.
But what about the damned Cashmeran?
Well, I must confess, I don't think it's so bad here. Maurice Roucel has succeeded in giving the pale beige a darker complexion, taming the vanilla sweetness with floral contrasts, almost neutralizing it with salty leg notes, and giving the light-woody notes some character with fine incense streaks.
I still don't think it's great, but probably 'Dans tes bras' is the best thing that could happen to this synthetic and hybrid fabric.
When asked which of his fragrances Fréderic Malle would like a little more attention, he says in an interview once: this here.
Why is 'Dans tes bras' lacking in attention on the part of the inclined consumer public? I don't know.
But I feel 'Dans tes bras' as an intellectual, but not intellectual, extremely sensual scent, which however does not open up immediately and can even be perceived as bulky.
If you want to give it a chance: please test it several times, it's worth it.
The scent grows on the skin!
12 Comments