Bel Ami 1986 Eau de Toilette

8.1 / 10 481 Ratings
A popular perfume by Hermès for men, released in 1986. The scent is leathery-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.
Pronunciation

Main accords

Leathery
Spicy
Woody
Smoky
Oriental

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
Mandarin orangeMandarin orange BergamotBergamot LemonLemon SageSage
Heart Notes Heart Notes
CarnationCarnation BasilBasil CedarCedar JasmineJasmine Orris rootOrris root PatchouliPatchouli
Base Notes Base Notes
LeatherLeather OakmossOakmoss StyraxStyrax VetiverVetiver CoconutCoconut VanillaVanilla

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
8.1481 Ratings
Longevity
8.2381 Ratings
Sillage
7.5375 Ratings
Bottle
7.7366 Ratings
Value for money
7.7111 Ratings
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 13.04.2024.

Reviews

16 in-depth fragrance descriptions
7
Pricing
7
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Ponticus

28 Reviews
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Ponticus
Ponticus
Top Review 84  
Lederhosen children
I belong to the baby boomer generation, the term commonly used to describe those born between 1950 and 1970. As such, I never suffered from a lack of playmates, was allowed to study in chaotic classes with lots of pupils, was never alone when applying for jobs, taking exams or registering, and the queue was an unavoidable companion for almost every purchase I wanted to make. It was always and everywhere full and there was always and everywhere something going on, you were never alone, rarely lonely, had real friends and real enemies. A life you could touch, which mainly took place outside.

For these adventures in the great outdoors, almost every child had a pair of Lederhosen! New and initially a few sizes too big, still with straps and a chest wallet, everyone grew into their trousers over time and then, after several years, now skin-tight, the first pubertal changes tended to intensify rather than conceal them. All the boys in our rural area wore them from March to November as long as the temperatures allowed, and there were a few girls too. These pants never broke, never got dirty and consequently never got washed and were a storage place for everything you needed or found outside during the long day. Once you had outgrown your first pair of lederhosen, you usually didn't get a second pair. However, they were often passed on to a brother, friend or someone who was looking for a pair. They were never thrown away, but rather stored so that one day they could also serve their own children well.

When my dear grandma died many years ago, I found mine in a cardboard box in her storeroom. My children were already too big for it, but they wouldn't have worn it anyway, not even a new one. Recently I found them again, my old leather trousers, this time on my own floor. Of course, I took a good look at them, smelled them everywhere and thought of all the memories that came to mind. Hardly any wild leather to be seen, smooth and greasy everywhere, stained, scuffed and worn, even an open seam can be seen. The smell is slightly musty and earthy, quite tart and strongly leathery. It also brings back memories of the stuffed side pockets that held the cherries, apples and plums that we picked on the many street avenues and that were always well filled with our childhood treasures, food and more. I also think, somewhat shamefacedly, of how quickly things had to happen if you were "suddenly" surprised by a need while playing and your trousers had received several drops more than once in the rush. Now, at the latest, I can smell that strong, animalistic, dry smell in my trousers too.

The rediscovery of my leather trousers coincided with the purchase of a new perfume, Bel Ami EdT by Hermès. The perfume is characterized by its leather note! This distinctive leather note is what makes Bel Ami, both the facets that you can smell straight away and those that you are looking for and hoping to find. Bel Ami is a memory fragrance for me and part of it reminds me of my happy childhood, of our freedom in everyday life and of my leather trousers in which I was allowed to experience all the adventures.

Bel Ami starts off spicy and tart in the form of a fresh, herbaceous fruitiness that already has a slight drift towards leathery for me. Bel Ami quickly reaches a considerable depth in which the fruity freshness quickly disappears and out of which some soiled leather gains more and more space. The leather is not dirty, but rather creaky, smoky, ashy and with a bit of earth. The leather notes are always present, but do not dominate Bel Ami. Woody, mossy oakmoss, curling, spicy florals and a restrained, very aromatic, vanilla-like sweetness flank the leather notes very elegantly and give the fragrance a certain rugged harmony. The fragrance lasts throughout the day, the scent is not overpowering, but the noticeability could be better. Bel Ami is not a classic leather fragrance, rather a leathery classic for the elegant gentleman and a striking alternative to the sweet fragrances and older, tried-and-tested hairdressing fragrances that are becoming increasingly prevalent today.

For me, Bel Ami evokes memories above all through the perfume's leather facets, without even wanting to imply that Bel Ami smells like my old leather trousers. Nevertheless, when I look back, I go into raptures, look at the old photos, spray on the perfume and am a little happier on those days than on others and I smell good too. I quickly gave up my temporary resolution to offer my old leather trousers to my grandchildren! They are just the right age, but today is a different time with different fashions, different activities, much less outside and let's be honest, it would be a bit disgusting.

Many thanks to you for your attention!
68 Comments
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Salva

71 Reviews
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Salva
Salva
Top Review 35  
From novel to perfume - An extremely successful creation
Bel Ami - Beautiful Friend

How does a name like that come about?

The name is derived from Guy de Maupassant's novel of the same name, published in 1885, which recounts the professional and social rise of a non-commissioned officer in 19th century Paris.

An uneducated, egotistical, and nearly penniless gentleman named Duroy meets his former buddy Forestier, who works for a newspaper. Thanks to his friend, Duroy also gets a job at this newspaper editor's office. He quickly discovers, however, that he is less talented for writing, and so seeks his "fortune" in other ways.

Not only the job, but also the acquaintance with the higher society Paris' has to owe Duroy his friend. Soon he is called "Bel Ami"; his nickname by which he becomes known. Meanwhile, the fact that after Forestier's death he takes his widow as his wife and continues to have various affairs with other ladies reflects his mischievous and opportunistic character.

His second marriage to the newspaper editor's daughter finally opens up his rise to the top of society.

[...]

Well, what does one expect from a fragrance so named? Looking at the protagonist of the novel's one might think that this perfume is a v.a. very seductive fragrance. But I personally did not expect anything, to be honest. Because the testing of this fragrance I have put off very long before me, because the leather listed here always held me up; does it namely not belong to the notes that I prefer.

When I finally ordered a bottling here some time ago, I tested it extensively, of course. And he has surprised me quite, and in the positive sense.

He is classified here as leathery-spicy and leather is not necessarily one of my favorite notes, but fortunately it is integrated in this fragrance only as a supporting actor; at least I empfind it so.

For me, it starts very fresh-aromatic with hesperidic notes such as the bergamot and lemon as well as a first tart-spicy accord, which I attribute to the sage.

After a short time, more spices join them, which push back the initial citrus notes and take center stage. As it progresses, however, I find these to be gentler and more pleasant than at the start; not pungent or prickly on the nose.
The leather I perceive if, then only to the base, but there also only discreetly in the background. Here press namely green moss and vetiver out, which give the fragrance a slightly woody and chypre-like character, which I appreciate and like so much.

[...]

For the summer he is v.a. because of the spices mMn not so suitable, but I see him in all other seasons easily wearable. Preferably, however, perhaps in autumn and on cooler spring days.

The durability can be seen with about 7 h at 5-6 spritzers on my skin very, and a fragrance cloud I perceive on myself the first 2 h also.

[...]

Conclusion:

Even if for me personally still Terre d'Hermès EdT as the best fragrance of the house, I like the Bel Ami EdT also very much.

He is a masculine distinctive, classically influenced, spicy aromatic fragrance with light chyprean tones, in which, fortunately, the leather is not so much the focus.

In fact, it even radiates a slightly sensual seductive aura, which I perceived before I even dealt with the background regarding the naming. This seductive note, however, is very subtle and restrained in its overall appearance. It is not at all intrusive, but very polite and civilized.

And presumably Duroy probably conquered the ladies that way too...

[...]

Thanks for reading!
26 Comments
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Siebenkäs

35 Reviews
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Siebenkäs
Siebenkäs
Top Review 27  
Friendship
Amp busted, remote lost, no tea in the house.
So I grab the jacket, and I go to Richie's.
But first, the big Bel Ami sample.
Ding-a-ling.
"What do you want?"
"Do you good, you loser..." "And with what?"
I wave' with the clearly marked Bel Ami sample
rum.
"Honestly, if this is the vintage version. which is'
so fucking "awesome..."
"Uh, Richie, could you... i mean, you're live right now
on perfume, I can't find that adjective straight..."
"What are you like? But ok, so then different:
the vintage in the shaker bottle '
is' like playing Yahtzee the double..."
"All right, Richie, we all get it, but trust me on this eternal vintage swarms or lamentations is not
particularly original or entertaining. Try
without reservation this version..."
So I spray him with a couple of charges from the 2019 to the
And let him have a few moments of your time... (Sniff,
sniffing, skeptical-looking...) I'll try
to advance cautiously:
"There's nothin I'd rather do with Ellena than this to screw up an icon...?"
"Nope, not that, but... what's he supposed to do? The ifra,
the regulations..."
"What he does best - a perfume that goes all around
works..."
"That sounds cold, doesn't it?"
"Bullshit. Does that smell like ice cold?"
"Well, no... rather warm... the citric is at first
not so violent anymore, the wood-leathery seems already
to come earlier, it doesn't rub between sour
and leather... tamer somehow..."
"But worse? Seriously? "
(Sniff, brood, ponder...)
"Definitely different..."
"OK, but does that automatically mean less good?"
"Yes, no... not exactly... let me think about it..."
"Just think... all you want..."
We actually let a few minutes pass.
Silently. Believe it or not.
"Well, let me tell you, he's... also... who sails around
all the cliffs so elegant... hardly any ashtrays,
but still a little smoke, softer, sweeter smoke, maybe some cigar ash..."
"Exactly there I see some points of contact to Antaeus, but a little bit different, at Antaeus there is more cigar box..."
"That's right, the cigar stays out at Chanel, at Bel Ami
...it's lit on fire for a minute... dry journeymen they both are, despite all differences."
"I agree... it's nice how we understand each other." "And there's some leather after the kind of club chairs you get but not crude, but sophisticated... and again and again clouds of discreet sweetness, but taken on the curb..."
"If that doesn't fit... the curb comes out of the
Horse world, that is Hermès ancestral land..."
"...and of course there's a spice mixture in there, too...
she's almost 80s..."
"Well, that's a compliment, isn't it?"
"Yes, in itself..."
"And he's still got strength, hasn't he?"
"Already..."
"So not a power row house?"
"More like a powerhouse with solar panels on the roof..."
"Well said, Richie! There's sunshine in there somehow no wonder, Ellena works in the south of France..."
"Reminiscent of a dignified English club you can
into the mountains above St-Tropez..."
"Exactly ...and the projection?"
"Not directly loud, but noticeable..."
"A hummer with soundproofing, so..."
"It's like a totally gutted old building..." "...even with air conditioning..."
"That's right, there's something fresh, too..." "And yet also flattering... Vanilla?"
"Report obediently: present!"
"But there's nothing snappy here..." "Nope, not that, rather dreamy..." "But a dream with power..."
"No fucking way!" "That word gets on my nerves so bad..." You and I are going to have a little silence again Des amis n'ont pas peur du silence.
Then I remember something else.. "You, Riechie, my friend, don't you want to give people say something else, so at the end of the year, something reflective...?
"Nope, you can do better..."
"Come on, they want to hear from you!"
"But I know nothing. Except I'm quoting..."
"Please, feel free..."
Now, this is' from New Order, from the song "Game",
gei... uh strong number..."
"Shoot...!"
"Really...?"
"Yeah, man!"
"All right:
It's so clear, but we can't see it It's in the air that we breathe in It's so close, but we can't touch it.. But it is here, and we love it..." "You, Richie..." "What?"
"Goose bumps!"
16 Comments
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
7.5
Scent
Chizza

273 Reviews
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Chizza
Chizza
Top Review 27  
You are not a Philistine, you are a fragrance of life
At the beginning I would like to start with a Heinrich Heine quote, which seems to me somehow appropriate:

"The Philistines, the limited,
these mentally retarded,
you must never, ever tease.
But wide open wise hearts
always know in our jokes
Love and friendship
to discover."
You are such a fragrance, not intended for any wearer who cares what others think about him or her and whether they may mock your age and the older-looking fragrance that goes with it. Whoever wears you, who wants to make a statement, wears you because he appreciates you and doesn't care what the environment says. Maybe he also carries you because your fragrance comes from a time of the perfume trade, where fragrances had charisma and character and were not so much a room fragrance.
You belong in line with the classics like an egoist. You stand for that era of masculine, explosive head notes. The mixture of citrus fruits and sage can hardly be described otherwise. This lasts for quite a while and you have to be able to accept it or leave it alone. It doesn't matter whether you're wearing a suit or a rocker, whether it's the 30 or the 60 year old. It's all about the appearance of your wearer.
You stay wild, this is ensured by your spiciness, which you get from your other ingredients. Nothing dominates, although individual notes shimmer through and the oakmoss gives you a certain cool serenity. Leather, too, is not found in you, but none of the things that are often found nowadays. It's not about intensity but about improving your scent, it's more of an alcohol-soaked leather.

In short: you are a friend you can rely on, who stays and is there when you need him/her after many years. You radiate the essence and character of a handshake fragmentality.

This - in scented form of course - is Bel Ami.
8 Comments
8
Bottle
6
Sillage
8
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Konsalik

81 Reviews
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Konsalik
Konsalik
Top Review 26  
Sultanas of Swing, or: The melancholic ceiling fan
Several reviewers on these pages have contributed with their descriptions to the fact that Bel Ami presents himself to me in my mind as a slightly frivolous, but heart-felt, tobacco-tanned wrinkled face from the beat of a Lino Ieluzzi or Peter Heinrich. What could be more obvious than to make a comparison with Davidoff's Zino (which is also not far-fetched in view of the year of publication), at least as a heuristic and frame of reference?

But while the light-steamy, walk-in humidor at Zino houses not only decent longfillers but also a whole battery of simple economic miracle herb wraps like "trade gold", Bel Ami's is rounder, more select and of higher quality. The tobacco association is rather comparable with very dark, slowly fermented leaves, dark chocolate and oily shiny. But, wait: what are the white speckles on the leaf? Mildew? No! Sugar crystals, as they can also form on the leaves of pipe tobacco that have been stored for a long time (so-called "geageten"). For despite all the serious, dark green-brown roundness, the entire fragrance is accompanied by a very natural sweetness, which - in view of the listed notes - does not give off a particularly vanilla-like note. After the soft, citric top note had faded away, I was instead accompanied deep into the base by a reminder of a freshly opened bag of sultanas, which with their specific, withdrawn fruit sweetness provide an excellent accompaniment for heavy tobaccos. Like, what, rum? Yeah, it's kind of available here too, but without a hint of molasses. But something ethereal, almost alcoholic is still found. I guess the oakmoss in connection with the listed coconut, but my analytical apparatus fails at this point.

A slightly melancholic gentlemen's evening in Caracas, in which the ceiling fan hums slowly, half-closed blinds shut out the sharpest rays of the already low sun and the friends present are offered pleasures that must seem strange and provocative to our Jochen Schweizer society.
Let us hope, with all our sympathy for the friendly gentlemen, that in the fields behind the house only tobacco is actually cultivated.
9 Comments
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Statements

7 short views on the fragrance
BertolucciKBertolucciK 3 years ago
7
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
7.5
Scent
Masculine scent. The opening is fresh, spicy and leathery. In the drydown, green, earthy, woody, smoky oakmoss, patchouli and more leather.
0 Comments
Jbl775Jbl775 6 months ago
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
10
Scent
The greatest masculine fragrance ever made. Yes you heard me right.
0 Comments
Fragaddict12Fragaddict12 2 years ago
7
Bottle
5
Sillage
6
Longevity
2.5
Scent
Thank god I didn’t waste my money blind buying this it’s awful
0 Comments
Ineed1936Ineed1936 1 year ago
10
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
To thin compared to more older formulation! Its ok but todays version has flaws!
0 Comments
HugoMontezHugoMontez 5 years ago
Along with Fahrenheit, the best leather fragrance out there. Mossy-green-floral scent with a hint of coconut on a classy leather base.
0 Comments
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