At first I thought, ugh, an aquate!
Actually, I hate aquatics. Who belongs to a Cool Water-damaged generation, like me, will probably know that. Although Cool-Water is not a bad fragrance, not at all, quite the opposite! But the unbelievable number of clones that came along in the wake of the Davidoff fragrance, even more so the spillover into the realm of functional perfumery, triggered a sea breeze overkill for me. I can long no longer: mercy!!
Floor or window cleaner, laundry detergent or fabric softener, shower gels or shampoos, deodorants or fragrance trees - everywhere this cloyingly synthetic sea breeze, this nature-mocking chemtrail. I am becoming increasingly aggressive.
And then this: "Sogno Reale" - what a scent!
Well, there's Miller Harris' "Fleurs de Sel," "Acqua di Sale" by Profumum, or "Sel Marin" by Heeley, and plenty of others of that ilk that strive for a different, more natural marine accord, one that smells of salt, of iodine-infused air, of spray-damp rock, of kelp and seaweed - all more or less wonderful scents that thoroughly soothe me. But "Sogno Reale" does not belong in this category, it is different. Neither, however, does it belong in the category of cool-water adepts, although I almost placed it there shortly after spraying it on for the first time.
Juicy citrus notes, a distinctive and heavy dose of the aroma chemical 'Calone', combined with sweet-resinous amber notes - doesn't that sound awful?
It is atrocious.
But hold on Where with other fragrances of this Couleur already here the fair is read, the Chose with "Sogno Reale" now really begins.
After a while, namely, the deeper notes begin to gain volume, become broader, more complex, finally embrace the somewhat whining, nose hair-robbing prelude, without fully covering in. A touch of this cool-water ordinariness even remains until the late ebb of this fragrance, but already with the blossoming of the heart, and even more so the base notes it no longer bothers me at all, but suddenly seems to me completely okay.
That must be so!
I find the transition from the citric-aquatic top notes to the warm, sensual, rather delicate base particularly successful: of all things, the tuberose mutates here to the decisive bracket. Like an octopus in the middle of the fragrance, it stretches out the tentacles of its scent kaleidoscope in all directions: into the upper, fresh-ozonic sphere as well as into the darker, earthy depths, without belting out its well-known tuberose solo at the ramp. Equally enigmatically, the patchouli that accompanies it plays a primarily unifying, amalgamating role.
Thus, the loud, but somehow also whimsical citrus-navy accord (which, to top it all off, a quiet chlorine suggestion adheres, but is strangely apart!) comes with the help of the tuberose-patchouli duo so slowly to rest, and sinks to a beautiful base of resinous, subtly smoky and leathery facets. A hint of hyraceum adds just enough animalicism to it that underneath it all, there's a quiet, unobtrusive erotic sophistication that's downright addictive.
Speaking of 'quiet' and 'addictive'. Two terms that characterize "Sogno Reale" for me: although you might suspect it, the fragrance is not loud, all in all, if you disregard the confident opening. No, it is rather restrained, but maintains a pleasant presence over a long period of time, which should not exceed an arm's length in terms of projection. This is precisely the range I personally prefer.
And as for the term 'addictive': a rare phenomenon, at least for me, accompanies this fragrance. The abrupt recoil of the head after initial spray, is always followed by a slow approach again, a careful approach to the scented area, until I finally can not get my nose away from it.
Yes, "Sogno Reale" is actually addictive!
That some recognize here the smell of sea urchins, especially in the prelude, I'll let stand so - since I rather the olfactory world of the Alps has socialized, I can not really judge. I have no idea what sea urchin smells like. Quite possibly, however, that the combination of iodine-containing seawater accord, underlaid by something Hyraceum favors this association.
In any case, Amelie Bourgeois has created a dreamlike fragrance with "Sogno Reale", 'dreamlike' in two respects: on the one hand, it actually behaves the way dreams sometimes do - characterized by wild, seemingly chaotic scene changes, emotionally charged and contradictory. On the other hand, "Sogno Reale" is simply a dreamlike fragrance, rich in contrasts and exciting - but never tense! Because that's what Amelie Bourgeois and her 'Flair' partner Anne-Sohpie Behaghel stand for: sophisticated but wearable fragrance art in the best, typically French sublimated artistry.
Sure, not all of their fragrances are masterpieces, but if anyone can consistently deliver them, it's these two exceptional artists. Especially if you let them, and give them the famous carte blanche.
Stefania Squeglia, the owner of Mendittorosa has obviously done that. Her trust in the 'Flair' founders is apparently so great that she even let a young graduate, whom Bourgeois and Behaghel took under their wing, debut a fragrance in her house: Camille Chemardin with "Ithaka".
That this trust is rewarded again and again, was shown most recently by the fantastically turned out "Orlo".
But it's not just the - mostly - compelling compositions that convince here - you can literally smell the good ingredients! When both come together, best ingredients and skill, interesting and stylishly staged, then you can confidently speak of the ideal case.
That the design of Mendittorosa is somewhat idiosyncratic, let's forget it. Exactly this playful idiosyncrasy, however, I find likeable. Even if it's not my style, I like it. In any case, it shows care, genuine appreciation, and yes, passion.
"Sogno Reale", this 'real dream', which Stefania Squeglia reported to the 'Flair' ladies, so that they distilled a fragrance from it, actually crowns a kind of sea urchin, but one made of painted plaster and not a real one, which already called concerned animal rights activists to the scene.
So there might be something to the sea urchin association.
If I ever get a sea urchin under my nose in my life, I'll give it a very deliberate sniff.
I'm curious!
A little addendum: Having worn the scent a few times now, I'm almost looking forward to that rich citrusy navy opening! Fortunately, after all, Amelie Bourgeois has apparently dispensed with the stereotypical masculine freshness-fougères characterizing combination of calone (IFF sensibly markets it as 'Aquamor') and dihydromyrcenal (THE molecule for pore-deep citrusy-sweet purity!), and instead created the accord with semi-natural citrus oils.
This smells so much better than 'Cool Water' & Co!
Top Notes 
Heart Notes 
Base Notes 
Jlundo
Agegshdhd
Chrimlee
