Phileas 1984 Eau de Toilette

Phileas (Eau de Toilette) by Nina Ricci
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8.4 / 10 61 Ratings
A popular perfume by Nina Ricci for men, released in 1984. The scent is green-spicy. The longevity is above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Green
Spicy
Woody
Leathery
Chypre

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
Green notesGreen notes JuniperJuniper LemonLemon AldehydesAldehydes BergamotBergamot
Heart Notes Heart Notes
CarnationCarnation Pine needlePine needle PatchouliPatchouli CarawayCaraway CedarCedar CinnamonCinnamon JasmineJasmine VetiverVetiver
Base Notes Base Notes
LeatherLeather TobaccoTobacco AmberAmber LabdanumLabdanum MuskMusk OakmossOakmoss
Ratings
Scent
8.461 Ratings
Longevity
8.146 Ratings
Sillage
7.446 Ratings
Bottle
7.859 Ratings
Value for money
8.110 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 18.04.2024.

Reviews

4 in-depth fragrance descriptions
BrianBuchanan

355 Reviews
BrianBuchanan
BrianBuchanan
1  
Woody Lime clone
I suppose if you mix bergamot, lemon and green notes with juniper, it -could- approximate to lime.

I say ‘approximate to lime’; and for that, dihydromyrcenol would come in handy, which Good Scents describes as : fresh, citrus, lime, floral, clean, cologne, and weedy.

It sounds like a general description of Phileas to me – minus the dry woods, evergreens and dark leather base.

But - wait a minute - Phileas appeared in 1984, did dihydro exist back then? Yes, a patent for ‘the preparation of dihydromyrcenol’ was granted at Houston, Texas to the Shell Oil Company in 1981. [Wikipedia]

‘An approximation to lime with woody, green, and mossy-leather notes’ Phileas could suit those who are want a lime scent that sticks around longer than a Mayfly; but of course, if a lime cologne did go on for ages it might well feel a bit linear, and lack depth or complexity.

Which is basically what you’ve got here; a rather linear, lime smelling thing with evergreens and a woody-leather base; or if you like, a drawn out woody-lime cologne.
As always, put it on cloth to spin out the head notes.
0 Comments
9
Pricing
8
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
10
Scent
ChicoRoch1

153 Reviews
ChicoRoch1
ChicoRoch1
Helpful Review 2  
A MANS fragrance
This screams masculinity through and through. The greeny pine together with the leather and oakmoss take center stage after a couple hrs. Longevity is fine but could be better. I always carry a decant. It's no longer in production so the price for a full bottle will be significant but it's worth every penny. Wish they still made fragrances like this nowadays but sadly they don't. One of my faves for sure
1 Comment
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
10
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Sanglier

3 Reviews
Translated Show original Show translation
Sanglier
Sanglier
Very helpful Review 12  
Wanderlust
A basement place in B., a long time ago. The fellow student sprays something on the table and holds his lighter to the track. A little blouse flame crawls across the table, smelling of light wood and warm herbs, of heather. Sustainable...
Only my budget prevented me from buying then. The name brought back the smell much, much later: Phileas. Now the availability hinders the purchase, until a 30ml copy EdT was found on a platform.
In the nose a strongly concentrated Sir Irish moss (also very old, I know), on the skin artificial at first, somewhat sharp, sweetish in rapid change: actually disappointing, so far away from spontaneous smell and memory. Then change to beeswax, and Herbes slowly emerges. The sun-warm herbs spread, mossy, warm forest soil. The attempt to smell the scent components leads again and again to moss and then to cool, old leather. Spices are only very discreetly perceptible, moss and leather predominate. It smells like travel. Sustainable - still.
1 Comment
7.5
Bottle
10
Sillage
7.5
Longevity
7
Scent
Apicius

222 Reviews
Apicius
Apicius
1  
A Clean Macho
Duftstick is a fan of vintages, and I owe him some of my experience with this class of perfumes. Personally, I do not want to commit myself to vintages so much. Every time has its great fragrances, but of course, there are gems to discover.

Phileas by Nina Ricci really is a fragrance of the past – one of the kind that can hardly be found nowadays. It cannot easily be described with so many notes in the pyramid. I would regard Phileas as a neighbor to the vintage Trussardi Uomo – and so it is a variant of a leather chypre. Especially in the head notes the reminiscence of that well known Italian is evident.

Actually, Phileas is not a beautiful fragrance. Close to the skin, the smell is sharp and rather unpleasant. Phileas is ignorant for today’s habit of smelling perfume directly on the spot where it was applied. This macho does not have in mind his own pleasure; he is up to something else. With his strong sillage, Phileas marks his precinct and tells everybody he’s there. This justifies a big cloud of fume!

The attitude Phileas expresses is quite clever: the fragrant cloud contains lots of soapy musk – as much as is needed to pretend that its wearer has just stepped out of the shower. This could be quite boring, if not the rest of all the spicy, leathery and other notes connived to let Phileas look anything but neat and clean.

Look at me, Phileas seems to tell us, of course I am concerned about body hygiene – but no matter how long I extend my showers – my male glands will immediately start producing that really butch smell again! - Hm, this attitude may have worked out well several decades ago but I am really glad these times are over.

Without any doubt, Phileas is brilliant since it hits this macho attitude right on the spot. But I think it was already outdated when released in 1984. The perfume industry has never been good in keeping up pace with the changes in our western societies.

An open shirt revealing lots of greyish chest hair, and a moustache – will that ever come back again?
1 Comment

Statements

1 short view on the fragrance
ChicoRoch1ChicoRoch1 2 years ago
8
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
10
Scent
Unsung underrated powerhouse
0 Comments

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