Bois de violetteby Serge Lutens (1992)
79 of 100%, 38 Ratings
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|Blossoms, Violet leaf, Cedarwood|
79% (38 Ratings)
76% (22 Ratings)
61% (19 Ratings)
80% (21 Ratings)
This perfume was researched and submitted by Kankuro
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2 Review Awards
Cedar and Violet at a concentration I can detectNow here's a cedar-violet composition from le Grand Serge for me. When I donned FEMINITE DU BOIS earlier today, I seriously worried that I might be suffering an "anosmic moment". I literally could smell NOTHING for a couple of minutes. BOIS DE VIOLETTE has solved that problem by basically tripling the violets and doubling the cedar to produce a gorgeous creation obviously intended precisely for me, the world's biggest violet 'ho' (big in passion, not in size).
There is some real depth to this deceptively simple combination of notes. Ironically, the first Serge Lutens perfume to go into the "must buy" category of my wish list is also the one that costs 50% more than the others. Why? I ask most sincerely. Violets? Cedar? What's the special ingredient which justifies the "special" price? I wonder.
Well, let's not get bogged down in ignoble mundanities. This perfume is beautiful--that's the bottom line.
2 Review Awards
less booze, more crystalThe first time I tried Bois de Violette I kicked myself for having bought Feminité du Bois a few months earlier. You know that shitty feeling of having bought the good, and then finding the better? I quickly came to the conclusion, though, that I prefer Feminité for most purposes and would choose it over BdV if I were to have just one. BdV brings into relief a feeling about Feminité that I could never quite get my nose around. Feminité’s boozyish combination of fruit, wood and flower expresses itself with a dried-fruit resinousness that I find nowhere except in the SL Feminité and Bois perfumes. Without using any of the classic perfume resins/oils (benzoin, olibanum, myrrh, spikenard, peru balsam, cistus labdanum) Feminité synthesizes a flower/fruit/wood that has the same stickiness and chewy quality that we associate with botanical resins.
Bois de Violette, while gorgeous, removes the stickiness of Feminité in order to focus on the highs of the added violet. The result is that it speaks in a higher, perhaps prettier register, but loses some of the implicit harmony of Feminité’s middle register.
The Feminité / BdV dilemma fleshes out an understanding that I’ve been coming to. I’ve always preferred the range of the viola to that of the violin. In the small bit that I’ve experienced of opera, I’m instantly drawn to the mezzo soprano rather than the soprano. The majority are drawn to the most prominent, the one that shines the brightest, the highest in the hierarchy. But just listen to a recording of Marilyn Horne singing Rossini and you’ll understand why I’ve come to prefer Feminité du Bois to Bois de Violette.
You actually made me aware of my own thoughts, great review!
2 Review Awards
Bois de Violette by Serge LutensBois de Violette by Serge Lutens
Cedarwood, Violet Leaves, Flowers.
So many Lutens have that effervescent quality in their openings and Bois de Violette is no exception. Some of them come off as a hairspray accord on my skin, but happily BdV isn't one of them.
Woody violet? Yes it is, but you must remember that this is the world according to Serge and his interpretations aren't along the same lines as convention. Bois de Violette is sweet overall, but stops short of becoming too much of a good thing. I can image some will find this scent molto dolce, yet I believe it's properly tuned and more in line with a feminine fragrance.
There's also a leathery quality to Bois de Violette. I get the impression of a subtle iris-labdanum combo in the works. Yes, I'm aware it's not listed, but I still smell it and it is more pronounced than the wood accord from the very beginning.
After 5 minutes, I am persuaded that a more appropriate name for this very nice fragrance would have been Cuir de Violette. The wood quality is minimal on my skin and I am not complaining. I am a fan of wood and leather and I have been caught off guard. Still, I find Bois de Violette a very respectable scent and unfortunately one that leans too far feminine for me to wear comfortably.
As you might expect, this particular Lutens creation is simplistic and nowhere near as complex as others in his line. The violet note has hints of green and manages to stay centered for the life of the scent. Once the slightly fizzy aspect in the opening accord subsides, a leather incrementally gains momentum and seems to shadow the violet. It never overtakes it, but it does make its presence felt.
This is the totality of Bois de Violette in my wearings. Uncomplicated, yet substantial and a scent I can picture on a corporate woman who means business. Sillage is respectable and longevity is 5 hours or better on me. The violet note is long lasting and sans the sharpness usually attributed to it. I think the Serge did a nice job, so Bois de Violette gets a thumbs up for aroma, but not for price point. As always, a sample wear is recommended.
I am actually quite confused as to why this one costs about twice as much as the others, especially since some of them (Feminité du Bois) also feature cedar and violet! Puzzling...
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