Chergui by Serge Lutens
Hay, Amber, Sweet Tobacco, Sandalwood, Russian Leather, Moroccan rose, Tuscan Iris, White honey.
Reading up on Chergui by Lutens will permit you to find diverse note listings. Almost every site has a different set of accords and as such, I decided to list the above as none of that holds much water anyway. The proof is in the smell.
Only recently have I purchased a sample, so I can assume that what I am reviewing is most likely the newest formula. I would like to start out by saying that Chergui has terrific presence and an envious swirl effect.
The opening of Chergui is an excellent earthy amber that doesn't display a resinous side just yet. The tobacco integrates within a few minutes and the result is a semi sweet, decadent ambacco accord.
There's a spicy aspect to Chergui that offsets the opening nicely. It's a mellow spice and its existence is realized about 5 minutes into the wearing. It's about this stage of transition that I admit to Chergui already being a winner. It begins to evolve a more pronounced sweetness, yet stops short of becoming cloying. The initial two accords have won me over and have me hoping I will enjoy the remainder of the scent.
Once Chergui begins to dry down, the sweet ambacco accord is still prominent on my skin. This tandem is so good that it has every right to still be walking point. The listed leather, sandalwood, honey and iris don't come to pass as individual or even identifiable notes. They seem to be a stacked entity that assembles itself to exist under the ambacco.
Their contribution adds a heady fullness to an already substantial fragrance. There's resin appearing at this stage of Chergui and along with the soft spoken spice accent the amber very nicely. By extended drydown, a full bodied and sensual ambery tobacco with spice and hints of musk envelope the wearer. This is a sexy perfume and would smell beautiful on either gender as far as I'm concerned.
I have had my differences with Serge in the past. I've also been fortunate in that my recent sample ventures of Mr. Eclectic's creations have been positive ones. Chergui, by far, has been the most appealing and pleasurable to wear so far. I thoroughly enjoyed Chene enough to put it on my future purchase list, but now that I've experienced Chergui, Chene must go farther back in the line. Big thumbs up for the Serge and his beautiful ambacco.