Belgwen

The Body Shop’s original Raspberry fragrance in oil form and EDT used to be my signature in the 90s. A lot of kids at school wanted to know what I was wearing and boys kept telling me how good I smelled. Then of course, like every best-selling great perfume ever made, TBS in their infinite absurdity, discontinued this beautiful fragrance. In its glory days Raspberry used to be so much more than a modern-day synthetic concoction pretending to be a fruit note. It was deep, with excellent projection, complexity, smoothness that only made its realistic edge more perfume-y.

When I saw that TBS was re-releasing their Raspberry I literally squealed with delight and purchased the whole set immediately all the while crossing my fingers and hoping that it will not be like the myriad of chemical soups that are pumped out by the mainstream stores in malls across the country. After I received the EDT version in the mail, I tore through the layers of boxes and sprayed it abundantly on my arm, waiting for the juice to flash itself as its original magnificent version... Well, let’s just say that my hopes were half-dashed. While Raspberry lives up to its name by being a very realistic impression of the fruity note (Early-Harvest Raspberry), none of the complexity, smoothness, or the sillage of the original is to be found in it anymore. I've sprayed on about five times, waiting for the former sillage bomb to drop on me…. and waited… and waited… and waited… But it never did. Even when layered with the body scrub, lotion, AND body butter, this EDT performs on par with an average body spray. This is STAGGERINGLY ridiculous to me and completely unacceptable. For reasons only known to itself, TBS hasn't released a body spray of Raspberry – so no chance of hoping for layering to get more scent out of it either.

Don’t get me wrong, I am very happy that Raspberry was released but I really wish that TBS didn't label their body sprays as EDT, charge an unfairly high price, and instigate false hopes for a REAL Raspberry EDT. As there are no brands other than TBS that has an EDT dedicated to this single (and personally most beloved) note, I have no options but to go along with whatever they are currently offering. If I ever find a *real* EDT to replace this particular Raspberry fragrance, TBS version will be promptly dumped. Please feel free to chime in if you have any other suggestions or ideas or just to say hello. :)

Blackbird is a pillar amongst its woody aromatic counterparts; fruity, intense, resinous, deep, and utterly daring. The black juice inside, aside from the fact that it stains the skin and clothes, is a road map to how unisex perfumes should be done. Upon first application, the fruity aspect, the Blackberry note, is prominent and smoky; a perfect opening volley that indicates what is to follow is going to be sexy, enigmatic, and interesting. The dark fruit note here serves as the tray the woods are served on. In the order of prominence, Balsam Fir, Cedar, and Musk are carried on the back of that glorious Blackberry until they all fade away, which is way over 12 hours. The Blackbird is what you would smell if you were to take a walk in the woods of the North on a rainy day and come across Blackberry patches along the way. The perfumer behind this took quite a risk composing this Black Beauty and the effort, in my opinion, was totally worth it. Recommended for all ages and genders who love to wear woody aromatic and are looking for the “dark edge” in a perfume without sacrificing the fresh aspect of it.

My family owned and operated a restaurant named "Bosfor" that was located right on the Bosphorus for over 50 years. Standing upon round blocks buried deep into the sea, it was surrounded by water on three sides, had a splendid view of the canal, the dark blue waves that rose and splashed against its windows, and the glorious sunsets of the Marmara Sea that conjured images of pure magic when I was growing up. My mom says that countless folks including many international celebrities over the years have patronized our restaurant and enjoyed our delicious food. It was eventually demolished by the merciless local government due to refurbishment of the old western side of the city. To me however, the Bosphorus and that restaurant will always have an irreplaceable place in my heart. Besides the standard steak, chicken, and seafood dishes that come out of most professional kitchens, we also served traditional deserts that my parents said many people came from all over the world specifically to sample. One of them was our famous, fresh made lokum, which our pastry chef made with a secret ingredient he never shared with anyone, not even my parents! I remember it being so much different than any of the lokums that you could buy in the stores. Though it was thick and chewy to the point sticking to your teeth, it made up for that little inconvenience by hitting your tongue with the right amount of sweet & savory that was to die for.

Traversée du Bosphore captures that lokum of my childhood perfectly. The hint of a pink flower, the powder, and the gel-like consistency... The pure creative genius of Bertrand Duchaufour is evident when you look at the notes pyramid and notice that instead of the traditional rose + vanilla + heliotrope to form the powdery notes, he took an unconventional route by combining iris and pink fruity notes to capture the flavor of a powdery confection. The leather, I believe, was added here to reflect the rubbery quality of lokum rather than to make a statement of virile sensuality. It was a most fruitful choice, because of all the lokum fragrances I've ever tried, this composition is the only one that gave me that impression so accurately. Lasting power is around 8 hours on my skin. Although in no way could this be described as a skin scent, the sillage is fairly close throughout its lifespan. I can only picture Mr. Duchaufour taking a bite out of a piece of lokum when he was traveling through Istanbul and being moved enough to want to go straight back to his laboratory to recreate that delicious sensation. Well, they don’t call them “Turkish Delight” for nothing! :) I recommend this fragrance not only because it is an exemplary mature gourmand, but also for the travel-lovers out there who might just be vicariously transported to the same time and place of my childhood and that of the nose behind it.

Mr. Duchaufour: Thank you, from the bottom of my heart, for helping me relive my memories with this precious elixir.

Ever since its release, I wanted so badly to try Ylang in Gold. I don’t know why it took me so long to test it; a reason for it might have been that I was afraid to want such an expensive perfume. Every time I fall in love with a perfume which sells for several hundred dollars a bottle, I curse fate for bringing me such loveliness that I cannot afford let alone justify buying it. Trying this on my skin, however, has been a positive and a negative experience, both aspects from which I will benefit. Negative aspect: I loved it at first sniff. This automatically puts it in the category of “Too Expensive”. Positive aspect: It's two fold... Firstly, it’s simply too gorgeous for words! Without looking at any of the notes, I get a fruity opening followed by a trace of Ylang Ylang. Secondly, about 30 minutes into the drydown, I get fruity, powdery Vanilla pudding with less-than-dominant Ylang Ylang with tremendous sillage and longevity. In short, I get an ever-so-slightly fruitier version of Hanae Mori (Parfum version.) If I was asked to blindly smell and identify this on my skin, I’d say “Hanae Mori Parfum” without hesitation. Are the ingredients more expensive/pure/rare/loftier/so much more uber-awesome than the mass marketed Hanae Mori? I’m sure of it. Does that make any difference as far as the end result? No. And that, folks, is the BEST news. I get to keep my beloved Hanae Mori and several hundred dollars in my pocket. For those of you who would like to buy this but cannot afford it, seek out a sample of this. If you like it, go purchase the pocket-friendlier Hanae Mori Parfum version (Pink Butterfly). It’s essentially the same thing.

This perfume reminds me of the “The Fir Tree” story by H.C. Andersen; the story about the beautiful little fir tree who does not know its own beauty or the beauty all around it. Very much like the amplified violets of Guerlain's Insolence EDP, I can imagine not many people appreciating this Blackcurrant dominant beauty simply because it’s a rare occasion to find the Blackcurrant note amplified in this fashion. I personally have never smelled a composition that even showcases this note, let alone so intensely. I have, however, been lucky enough to grow up in the Eastern parts of the world where the dark forests of the Northlands are brimming with the scent of dark, wild fruits that this perfume has magnificently captured. As you walk through these magical woods, the smell of the moist earth fills your nostrils and the Blackcurrant bushes, with their bountiful yield, beckon you to pick their mouthwatering fruits as a most fulfilling sustenance for your journey. The Fir, Cedar, Opoponax, and the Oakmoss notes blend together to emulate these fresh woods flawlessly. The amplified Blackcurrant, though it does feel like it’s on steroids on occasion, adds deliciously to this mix and won’t let go until the very end, which is well after 12+ hours on my skin. In “The Fir Tree”, the beautiful little fir tree came to comprehend its own beauty when it was too late to enjoy it. Enchanted Forest however, knows and enjoys its splendor. Rightfully so. I give 10 out of 10 for this visionary Masterpiece.