BronxBeauty

Of all the fragrances Dana acquired and ruined, Toujours Moi might be the most tragic. I recently got my hands on a vintage bottle of Corday TM PDT, and the difference from the Dana remake is stark. The Corday is a sumptuous and spicy aldehydic, a grand dame in the classic style; the Dana assaults the nose like an aging Marseille hooker. Oook. Still, the fact that a fume created in 1924 still sells, even in this debased state, says something. Check out the pics of vintage TM bottles on the web -- they're gorgeous.

I'm not an expert on sandalwood fumes but this one does not rate highly among the few I've tried. It seemed undistinguished to my nose and did not develop, although the ingredients appeared to be high-quality. It was just dull and tedious, although tenacious. Sorry for the downer review but I gotta call 'em like I see 'em. For sandal fumes that have something going on, try Do San for its harmonious Zen take or SL's Santal Blanc, an under-appreciated fruity sandalwood.

Rrawwrr! This indole-laden chypre says it contains aldehydes, but I get none of that ingredient's sparkling lift. Instead, Replique takes no prisoners. It is rich, rich, rich & sultry, sultry, sultry -- just check out the basenotes. A bit slutty, too. My bottle (parfum) dates from the 60s-70s.

Like the idea of O de Lancome, but think its astringent top feels a bit like being hit in the face with a can of Lemon Pledge?

Have fond memories of EL's Azuree, but find its rawhide embrace too heavy and dated for your present needs?

Ann Gerard's Perle de Mousse is the fume for you. And me.

This stuff is a prime example of the artistry of Duchafour's transparent style; each note unwraps effortlessly like a veil slipping to the floor. You can read the review below for the play-by-play. Suffice it to say, I dig it.

This fragrance did nothing for me. The top of it was a noseful of alcohol, which devolved pretty quickly into a sharp, baby powder smell that did not compare favorably to a drugstore smell-alike -- Love's Baby Soft. Finally I got a quick hit of laundry musk. Then it was gone -- mercifully.