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Insense
Neither a noir, nor a patchouli; a floral leather instead
I am very fond of Histories de Parfums, being 1740 one of my preferred and in my top five currently. There is something in their craftsmanship, very french, that makes me believe they found the secret how to modernize the classic perfumery.
So, their perfumes are all real perfumes, not just scents or mere experiences. They exude class and distinction.
On my take on patchouli-centered, there is a time I found the one for me: Messe de Minuit, from Etro, although it brings to me much more than just patchouli, as I wrote in its review. I also love Borneo 1834 from Lutens, but it doesn’t seem to me so complete as a whole experience.
But, then, I found Noir Patchouli. And its name puzzled me, as I did not found the patchouli here I was used to. There is a hint of it, but my sensations turned around it and were leaded by that beautiful and elegant aroma of lovely floral notes mixed with the leather, that exquisite leather that HdP carries in their portfolio and I love so much. There are spices also, and some vanilla, and…juniper, which always is a plus for me (actually Ormonde Jayne Man is another one in my top 5, being juniper one of the main reasons).
I don’t find this particularly masculine, and I wonder if there could be an androgynous for the upper class, this would be the one. I mean, the ancient hippie guy that became the manager of a successful trendy art gallery.
Noir? Maybe for some, for me it is shiny! And not replacing Messe de Minuit in my heart (that's not possible), it would fit me for a night in the Concertgebow in Amsterdam watching ancient music played with ancient instruments.
So, their perfumes are all real perfumes, not just scents or mere experiences. They exude class and distinction.
On my take on patchouli-centered, there is a time I found the one for me: Messe de Minuit, from Etro, although it brings to me much more than just patchouli, as I wrote in its review. I also love Borneo 1834 from Lutens, but it doesn’t seem to me so complete as a whole experience.
But, then, I found Noir Patchouli. And its name puzzled me, as I did not found the patchouli here I was used to. There is a hint of it, but my sensations turned around it and were leaded by that beautiful and elegant aroma of lovely floral notes mixed with the leather, that exquisite leather that HdP carries in their portfolio and I love so much. There are spices also, and some vanilla, and…juniper, which always is a plus for me (actually Ormonde Jayne Man is another one in my top 5, being juniper one of the main reasons).
I don’t find this particularly masculine, and I wonder if there could be an androgynous for the upper class, this would be the one. I mean, the ancient hippie guy that became the manager of a successful trendy art gallery.
Noir? Maybe for some, for me it is shiny! And not replacing Messe de Minuit in my heart (that's not possible), it would fit me for a night in the Concertgebow in Amsterdam watching ancient music played with ancient instruments.
2 Comments
A master class from Guerlain
Exclusive in Guerlain boutiques or at Harrods in London, I ordered a small sample of an American site.
This perfume is part of the collection "Deserts d'Orient". I tried and re-tested all 3: Encens Mythique is sweet, reminiscent of the smell of the upper class women that surrounded my childhood; Rose Nacrée is for those who like oud with rose, arguably the most feminine of 3, and very well done; and finally this little secret that only we men should wear: Songe d'un Bois d'Été.
Distinguished, develops along the hours with nuances that only the mastery of a house as Guerlain could reach. Cardamom, the oud (not the medicinal one, but the smoothy one) and a cedar-patchouli base combine in a woody with great involvement. Mesmerizing and very very classy!
In the evening I will test the Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud to compare. I'm torn between the two.
Niche houses, learn from these sacred monsters. Guerlain and Dior, no one definitely exceed those in the world of perfumery!
This perfume is part of the collection "Deserts d'Orient". I tried and re-tested all 3: Encens Mythique is sweet, reminiscent of the smell of the upper class women that surrounded my childhood; Rose Nacrée is for those who like oud with rose, arguably the most feminine of 3, and very well done; and finally this little secret that only we men should wear: Songe d'un Bois d'Été.
Distinguished, develops along the hours with nuances that only the mastery of a house as Guerlain could reach. Cardamom, the oud (not the medicinal one, but the smoothy one) and a cedar-patchouli base combine in a woody with great involvement. Mesmerizing and very very classy!
In the evening I will test the Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud to compare. I'm torn between the two.
Niche houses, learn from these sacred monsters. Guerlain and Dior, no one definitely exceed those in the world of perfumery!
An ear to ear smile
My first review on this, two years ago:
"I never expected for compliments on this one, yet I had! This was surprising for me, as its oddness in the opening had puzzled me. But, yes, after the notes settled down, the real experience began. And what an experience! Initial burst of cloves and spices seemed to be too much for me, but something was so appealing that the first friend I found (a lovely woman, about an hour after I had sprayed the fragrance) sniffed it while kissing me and just said: "wow! you smell so good!"
Herbs, balsamic also. What a hell of a brand Slumberhouse is becoming! Speechless.
(Do I have to say I stayed with a smile ear to ear that spring afternoon?)"
My final thoughts, today, after ending my sample: nothing has changed, except that the day I am testing it again is colder, and perhaps it is even better in this sunny day of winter!
Discontinued, as I read somewhere...I'll just add that I haven't tested the last launched scents from this house, and that I became confused for so many experiments and discontinuations. Are we consumers being the guinea pigs for Josh?
Josh, give us a break :)
"I never expected for compliments on this one, yet I had! This was surprising for me, as its oddness in the opening had puzzled me. But, yes, after the notes settled down, the real experience began. And what an experience! Initial burst of cloves and spices seemed to be too much for me, but something was so appealing that the first friend I found (a lovely woman, about an hour after I had sprayed the fragrance) sniffed it while kissing me and just said: "wow! you smell so good!"
Herbs, balsamic also. What a hell of a brand Slumberhouse is becoming! Speechless.
(Do I have to say I stayed with a smile ear to ear that spring afternoon?)"
My final thoughts, today, after ending my sample: nothing has changed, except that the day I am testing it again is colder, and perhaps it is even better in this sunny day of winter!
Discontinued, as I read somewhere...I'll just add that I haven't tested the last launched scents from this house, and that I became confused for so many experiments and discontinuations. Are we consumers being the guinea pigs for Josh?
Josh, give us a break :)
2 Comments
Italian summer night
The opening incense citric notes, so real, transported me immediately to my first trip to Italy. And the earthy drydown evokes the magic of a silent night in Florence, hands on hands with my girl.
One of the most beautiful and austere masculines I ever smelled.
One of the most beautiful and austere masculines I ever smelled.
Scent of the harem
I re-visited Gold PH today.
My first try was a failure and I did not like it, I wonder why.
Today I found one of the most luxurious perfumes I ever tested. As good as Bogue's Maai. Or even better. An amazing dry down.
Is it for men?
Is it for me?
This is the scent of a harem.
So, I just can dream.
My first try was a failure and I did not like it, I wonder why.
Today I found one of the most luxurious perfumes I ever tested. As good as Bogue's Maai. Or even better. An amazing dry down.
Is it for men?
Is it for me?
This is the scent of a harem.
So, I just can dream.
