Myhorses

This release of Juliet Has a Gun ironically named as a statement tries a lot to be a different oud but it doesn’t. My curiosity to test it was raised while reading the notes – raspberry with oud and by the fact that I really enjoyed their first oud scent – Midnight Oud.

How is it? I get in the beginning a huge synthetic mutant raspberry that smells like strawberries with oud notes. This is not a soft oud perfume but a harsh oud one probably due to the large quantity of aromachemicals and I think that is one of the sweetest oud fragrances that I tested up to now. The entire composition is not so complex and remains linear with some a little bit animalic musk in the base note.

Briefly: a strawberry/oud combo, very sweet, sticky and harsh perfume, miles away from Midnight Oud

WHITE is different right from the beginning from the rest of Puredistance perfumes by simplicity in the way it was built, it does not have the rich structure of Antonia, M or Puredistance I . It s simple but in a very sophisticated way, being an example of “less is more” in perfumery.
I can easily say that WHITE is one of the most elegant summer fragrances. It starts on my skin in the first minutes with a clean scent of white musk surrounded by crispy cool bergamot /citrus and a hint of patchouli , then in short time , this composition turns fruity having a lemon sorbetto & limoncello note while the white musk disappears (for some time ). At this moment the rose signals it’s presence joining the sorbetto & limoncello note enhancing the fruitiness of the composition. This phase of WHITE reminds me a little bit of MFK’s Acqua Universalis Forte.

After the first hour the lemon sorbetto starts turning into a creamy vanilla citrus ice cream, the fruity tone being replaced by the powdery iris and by warm tonka note with shades of vanilla and heliotrope but not too sweet, please do not think that’s close to the latest Guerlain releases, it’s miles away. Santal is to blame for the soft milky note, that according to the company is sourced from Mysore, so we are talking about the real stuff. A simplistic composition but made with the best ingredients.

From this stage WHITE will not change a lot. The santalwood will become more present after two hours, lending more creaminess and a luxury feeling to the entire composition, the ice cream is melting on hot skin.

After 5-6 hours the clean musk re appears on my skin and bringing WHITE back to the white musk land where everything is white and clean and no emotions. It’s like the white musk is playing a “hide and seek” game on skin, appearing and disappearing from time to time.

The fragrance has an outstanding longevity for a simple summer fragrance, more than 8 hours, the silage is average which is easily expected from a perfume with a 38% fragrance oil.It ‘s difficult for me to say where is the place of WHITE: is it a clean white musk perfume or is it cool crispy summer woody fragrance? If is not clear yet if we have here a musky scent or not, what’s sure is the feeling: it makes me feel good, not really the “flow of happiness” as it was expected but I like it.

WHITE Is that kind of scent that is easy to pick in the morning when you are in a rush and you don’t have time enough to make up your mind about what perfume you want to wear on that day from your scent collection or when outside is a very hot summer day and you dress accordingly but you still want to be elegant .

It looks that these days the shy violet is back in niche perfumery. Since last year there were several launches of violet centered fragrances some pairing in the classical way violet with roses like in French Kiss from Guerlain , Epine mortelle from LM Parfums or Chanel’s Misia , others trying new companions like oud in: Silk Mood from MFK and Aoud Violet from Mancera or leather, also “en vogue”, like in the new launch of The Different Company I miss Violet .

I miss Violet starts with the violet-iris make up evoking note but only for few minutes then powdery iris is leaving the violet in a green entourage of violet leafs, basil and sparkling mandarins. Champagne note is supposed to pop up according to the official notes but on my skin I couldn’t detect any champagne. Soft leather is hiding among these green notes successfully revealing that “vegetal leather accord”, soft leather being there right from the top notes until the last notes, performing together with the violet accord a waltz not a tango.

The violet is not very powdery as it is usually in perfumes, especially when paired with rose and iris and the leather note is soft, almost suede like. I do not feel a prominent floral accord , from my perspective I can easily say that I miss Violet it’ s a green leathery perfume with a classical vibe rather than floral leathery.

After the first hour the osmanthus brings a fruity apricot note to the composition putting more emphasis on the leather accord which, from now on, will be more intense than the violet but still remaining on the soft side. There is no harsh leather in this perfume in any moment, only the smooth side is revealed . From this perspective I miss Violet is very easy to wear it daily, I have some leather perfumes that I really love but they are not so easy to wear as often as I wish and also it can be a good starting point for those who want to explore leather fragrances.

This soft leather accord in I miss Violet has inside the same DNA like other Duchafour creations focused on leather: Traversee du Bosphore , Cuir Nacree and Skin on Skin There is also an ozonic note that brings together with mimosa continuity of the green accord even when the violet note is almost gone, acting in a similar way like aldehydes with cassie(mimosa) in Cuir Nacree keeping the leather tone soft.

The drydown reveals a musky vanilla embedded in ambergris bringing up sensuality turning in the end the green vegetal leather note into a light musky sweet tone closer to the smell of human skin echoing somehow Hermes’s Cuir d’ Ange.

I miss Violet has a good lasting power, around 7-8 hours on my skin with a average silage, is not a loud perfume. From my point of view it’s a one of the best (soft)leather perfumes and the best violet scent that I tried lately . If you like leather perfumes and did not find yet the one that you can wear everyday or and if you want a elegant violet fragrance not loaded with make-up you have to give a try to I miss Violet.

A brilliant interpretation of santalwood note in the only that only Guerlain can do it and I'm writing this thinking at Samsara.
My expectations were around a perfume full of drama with something black inside but , instead , a splendid creamy soft santal with a comforting vibe. One of the best santalwood releases in my opinion
Good longevity , great silage

Another fabric – satin enters MFK’s fabric collection beside silk, cashmere and velvet, one of the most creative fragrance collection featuring oud.
The perfume has an unusual opening for an oud composition: candied violets that will turn a bit powdery and vanilla which, together with oud, is accompanying a bouquet of different roses.
These roses melted in soft vanilla with a powdery violet note have the echo of several other rose/violet perfume: FM’s Lipstick Rose and YSL ‘ Paris.

Satin Mood has on one hand the collection’s DNA but, on the other hand, it’s miles away from Cashmere or Velvet Mood being soft and feminine, a flowery sweet oud with some make up traces giving a comforting feeling. Compared with the rest in spite of the fact that is named Oud Satin Mood oud is not the guest star, the leading role was given to vanilla roses.
As the fragrance evolves in the drydown the roses start to pale in favor of vanilla, benzoin and powdery oud. Francis Kurkdjan succeeded once again a brilliant interpretation of oud in an original manner.
With a very good longevity, more than 8 hours and a beautiful silage that gets a lot of compliments Satin Mood is a must try even if you are not (yet) fan of oud fragrances.