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A wintertime story
Russian Tea is Act I – III wants to be scented memories from a trip to Russia . Actually is a new tea fragrance but tea fragrances usually are light scents with quit short life and low silage which is not pretty much Masque Milano’s style, their perfume having power, along life on skin and impressive silage.
How is it Russian Tea in fact? A dark, versatile creature made out of smoke and tar, a leathery incense fragrance with a strong black tee note.
The opening of the perfume is an olfactory picture of the Russian tea ritual. The strong black tea smell together with green minty notes are dancing in the air like the hot steams when pouring hot water in cups. The fruity raspberry note joins the mint accord creating somehow a cold breeze acting as counterpoint suggesting Russian winter: someone entering into the tearoom leaving the door open for few seconds enough that winter makes its presence inside. There is no raspberry sweetness only the flavor giving some light to the dark black tee accord.
As the scent is evolving, close to the smoky black tea – the perfume’s heart which becomes on my skin as time passes more leathery and woody, a light floral note appears maintaining the lightness brought by raspberry.
At this moment some sweetness can be also perceived announcing that immortelle entered into the stage but not for long time. I can easily define Russian Tea as a dry perfume, its sweetness being like a ghost during the perfume development on skin, possible representation of some nostalgic summer memories while drinking a tea cup in cold January.
The dark black tea accord very well underlined by smoky incense has strong presence from the very first moment when perfume lands on skin and stays around 10-12 hours which is the life of this perfume. The perfumer illustrated well the smoke from the burning fire keeping dry the tea leaves during the long journey in cold Siberia.
Russian tea does not have the delicacy of the fragrances featuring tea but is not either a powerful and intense masculine leathery incense perfume. It has somehow a lightness not common at all for leathery incense perfumes that makes it easy to wear and difficult to forget.
How is it Russian Tea in fact? A dark, versatile creature made out of smoke and tar, a leathery incense fragrance with a strong black tee note.
The opening of the perfume is an olfactory picture of the Russian tea ritual. The strong black tea smell together with green minty notes are dancing in the air like the hot steams when pouring hot water in cups. The fruity raspberry note joins the mint accord creating somehow a cold breeze acting as counterpoint suggesting Russian winter: someone entering into the tearoom leaving the door open for few seconds enough that winter makes its presence inside. There is no raspberry sweetness only the flavor giving some light to the dark black tee accord.
As the scent is evolving, close to the smoky black tea – the perfume’s heart which becomes on my skin as time passes more leathery and woody, a light floral note appears maintaining the lightness brought by raspberry.
At this moment some sweetness can be also perceived announcing that immortelle entered into the stage but not for long time. I can easily define Russian Tea as a dry perfume, its sweetness being like a ghost during the perfume development on skin, possible representation of some nostalgic summer memories while drinking a tea cup in cold January.
The dark black tea accord very well underlined by smoky incense has strong presence from the very first moment when perfume lands on skin and stays around 10-12 hours which is the life of this perfume. The perfumer illustrated well the smoke from the burning fire keeping dry the tea leaves during the long journey in cold Siberia.
Russian tea does not have the delicacy of the fragrances featuring tea but is not either a powerful and intense masculine leathery incense perfume. It has somehow a lightness not common at all for leathery incense perfumes that makes it easy to wear and difficult to forget.
3 Comments
A candy iris
Taking into consideration the name and the bottle my expectations were around a cold and abstract representation of iris. Silver Iris came out bottled in silver and I was wondering how cold this iris will be knowing well about the coldness of iris from Serge Luten’s Iris Silver Mist. Instead I discover right from the beginning a delicious sweet fruity fragrance with a very slight powdery candied violet tone reminding me about make-up. Not too much coldness, at least not as much as I expected , the tangerine and blackcurrant being responsible of bringing sunshine to the austere iris.
Silver Iris is a sweet almost gourmand iris representation which is not very common, the silver in the title is much more sugar than silver. From this perspective it is an interesting scent and can be much more interesting if you are into gourmand scents but on the other hand you should not expect further development on the skin.
It is a linear scent, telling the same story from the very first minute until the last tones, lasting about 7-8 hours on the skin. It has a good silage which is a nice performance for a Atelier Cologne scent.
The story behind the fragrance is about the moment when the tough metal woman of intimidating beauty meets the “ absolu man”. Silver Iris was not so successful in bringing out great emotions while wearing it. Instead it is a easy to wear feminine fragrance, I find it not so appropriate for the metal woman but nice on candy girl.
Finally ,Silver Iris is a nice, sweet and cozy everyday scent . It is not at all a complicated fragrance being easy to wear all year maybe except summertime when the sweet fruity powdery notes can be too much . Maybe fall or even a mild winter can be it’s favorite time of the year.
Silver Iris is a sweet almost gourmand iris representation which is not very common, the silver in the title is much more sugar than silver. From this perspective it is an interesting scent and can be much more interesting if you are into gourmand scents but on the other hand you should not expect further development on the skin.
It is a linear scent, telling the same story from the very first minute until the last tones, lasting about 7-8 hours on the skin. It has a good silage which is a nice performance for a Atelier Cologne scent.
The story behind the fragrance is about the moment when the tough metal woman of intimidating beauty meets the “ absolu man”. Silver Iris was not so successful in bringing out great emotions while wearing it. Instead it is a easy to wear feminine fragrance, I find it not so appropriate for the metal woman but nice on candy girl.
Finally ,Silver Iris is a nice, sweet and cozy everyday scent . It is not at all a complicated fragrance being easy to wear all year maybe except summertime when the sweet fruity powdery notes can be too much . Maybe fall or even a mild winter can be it’s favorite time of the year.
A night at the Opera
After reading the perfume description from Penhaligon's site my mind went quickly imagining a delicate powdery iris with some classic accents very much in line with Penhaligon’s hallmark and having no expectations to be surprised by this fragrance.
Now being mentally prepared and knowing more or less about what should I expect before trying the perfume I did the reality check and put Iris Prima on my skin. During the first fifteen minutes I was living in a delicate fresh powdery floral cloud surrounded by pink silky ballet pointe shoes, tones of silk ribbons and pink tutus with a lot of powder floating around. A definitely feminine fragrance with a fresh iris among other flower . I was then expecting for a solo from the iris as it was announced but SURPRISE !
The fresh Iris young ballerinas floating in powder were suddenly replaced by an unexpected and surprising scent of leather. A very well mannered leather with almost nothing animalic in it, actually is all about suede. In spite of the fact that oud is not mentioned in the composition I smell a very soft trail of oud which enters on the stage in the same time with the leather but vanishing quickly.
This pleasant slightly musky suede smell is growing bigger and bigger leaving behind the feminine flowery pink tutu territory and leaning more and more to masculine territory but never really reaching it . Still some powdery trails are telling that Iris is still there but not for long time. Supporting leather vetiver enters into the stage bringing much more emphasis and giving Iris Prima a unisex identity much more than feminine. Both of them suede and vetiver are soft and well balanced, all their harshness was turned down by Alberto Morillas with a touch of vanilla. The final stage has complexity given by the presence of sandalwood , bezoin and the soft vanilla.
After this performance of leather as Prima Ballerina in spite of the fact that we were told that Iris will perform I can easy say about Iris Prima that is a soft floral leather fragrance classic and classy in the same time.
Now being mentally prepared and knowing more or less about what should I expect before trying the perfume I did the reality check and put Iris Prima on my skin. During the first fifteen minutes I was living in a delicate fresh powdery floral cloud surrounded by pink silky ballet pointe shoes, tones of silk ribbons and pink tutus with a lot of powder floating around. A definitely feminine fragrance with a fresh iris among other flower . I was then expecting for a solo from the iris as it was announced but SURPRISE !
The fresh Iris young ballerinas floating in powder were suddenly replaced by an unexpected and surprising scent of leather. A very well mannered leather with almost nothing animalic in it, actually is all about suede. In spite of the fact that oud is not mentioned in the composition I smell a very soft trail of oud which enters on the stage in the same time with the leather but vanishing quickly.
This pleasant slightly musky suede smell is growing bigger and bigger leaving behind the feminine flowery pink tutu territory and leaning more and more to masculine territory but never really reaching it . Still some powdery trails are telling that Iris is still there but not for long time. Supporting leather vetiver enters into the stage bringing much more emphasis and giving Iris Prima a unisex identity much more than feminine. Both of them suede and vetiver are soft and well balanced, all their harshness was turned down by Alberto Morillas with a touch of vanilla. The final stage has complexity given by the presence of sandalwood , bezoin and the soft vanilla.
After this performance of leather as Prima Ballerina in spite of the fact that we were told that Iris will perform I can easy say about Iris Prima that is a soft floral leather fragrance classic and classy in the same time.
