Ysbrand

La Collection de Grasse included 4 new fragances which are rather nice, but quite forgettable too, with the exception of Vanille & Narcisse, which is the only one i would consider purchasing. This is unusual for me, since i am not a huge admirer of vanilla-centered fragances, specially if they are too sweet or fluffy. In the case of Vanille & Narcisse, the vanilla note is probably closer to the "fermented orchid" than to the dessert ingredient and it is not overpowering at all.

So this perfect balance between the vanilla and the narcissus where both boost each other instead or being one the supporter of the other, fulfills the aspirations of L´Occitane when they say they pursued a fusion of exotic and autocthonous ingredients, being the narcissus the french one. Narcissus, a note that in my opinion was not used as much as it deserves (because i love it) has been the focus of several recent launches, starting with the TF Jonquille de Nuit, and then the (stunning) Eau de Narcisse Bleu of Hermes, Nest´s limited White Narcissus, a Diptyque candle and now this.

It is a sensual, cheeky fragance from the beginning. Narcissus is handsomely featured and smells natural. This flower that stands on the crossroad of the green and the animalic, veers to the warmth of the white flower. Vanilla is the one to blame,and a touch of creamy carnality of gardenia that is really hard to catch by itself, since is so semlessly integrated in the narcissus... but the fragance is not heavy at all, but quite light and wearable. I noticed some spice, but i should smell it again, maybe nutmeg. Definitely a floriental. After a 2/3 hours, when the narcissus is not more than a whisper, the tonkilla stay for longer. The drydown is not overly sweet, slightly resinous, a tad of smoke. Sexy stuff.

The price is higher than the other L´Occitane perfumes. The Lady of L´Occitane told me they are indeed eaux de parfums, but they labeled as eaux de toilette because they were going to be launched in summer and didnt´t want the people to perceive them as "heavy". I guess marketing brains think of this things, but why such a positive feature, as high concentration is, would be concealed and reduced to a (suspicious) customer-Lady of L´Occitane secret confession? I dont know what to think. Not so much not so little. It lasts much longer than other eaux de toilettes of the brand, but it´s not incredibly intense (intensity is not a L´Occitane forté) which makes it a good choice for summer too despite the vanilla/tonka based perfumes seem more appropriate for cold weather.

Nice one, L´Occitane.

UPDATE: the cassis and the gardenia are somehow more noticeable on the bath line. The fragance after a shower really stays on the skin, although is a bit pricey.

Green is a compillation of green (duh) (Well it is not my fault they didn´t bleed to death thinking for a name) floral clean notes that somehow have a very warm, enveloping effect instead of being chilly and invigorating as i expected. Think more of new tendrils rather than dark forests.

Green smells very clean and there is nothing wrong with it. I mean, the ingredients don´t feel "chemical" at all, nevertheless i support the opinion that Green reminds of a very nice smelling home-care/body-care product. I quite enjoy shampoo-like perfumes if they are well done, so it is not an issue for me.

The fragance starts very grassy and sparkling and then it gets more delicate and sweeter. With the petitgrain i smell something like linden. It is green, but it oozes nectar too. The slight metallic buzz of violet leaves is mainly the responsible for Green´s green-ness, being softened by delicious honeysuckle, but also a light rose, closer to rosewater than to rose oil. As the fragance evolves, mild touches of bitterness from green almonds arise and along the calming tonka define a very confortable drydown, and never looses completely its leafy, spring-like nature.

Maybe because it smells so clean and foamy it is perfectly suitable both for women, men and i am thinking, it could be a great choice for children, because it has this innocent vibe (and in Spain at least we soak children in cologne) and absolutely not a shadow. Just loving tendrils, wild flowering vines and soap bubbles.

I am kind of surprised and dissapointed for the low rates of this fragance. I think it has been frankly overlooked!

Blue Jeans is so 90s. Wait and see, when the 90s will become the new 80s, this is going to be big again. And i am not only speaking as a psychic, i already see a lot of not-so-kids-anymore wearing pokemon t-shirts as fashion musts and they will dictate the trends. If some "marketing genius" doesnt change the super cool design of the bottle and the tin-box that keeps the essence of the Versace look, Blue Jeans, that has been patiently waiting in the permanent discount shelves worldwide, covered in dust, will make its come back.

It also smells like the 90s. Because Blue Jeans is so sexy. It is fun and sexy in a grown-up way. Like before male models started to look like starved teenagers and have weird faces and homeless beards. When you needed to be beautiful in order to be beautiful. And fierce, and over-confident. Thats all that Blue Jeans is. Blue Jeans has this fougere-ish vibe, but is way more sensual than a barbershop fragance. It opens with a fresh, green, aniseed cloud plus all this aromatic and citrus notes. But this party is crowded. The flowers want to stand out, and i catch all of them! spicy carnation, rose, touch of indolic jasmine, powdery muget and iris... all beautifully blended in butcher notes as geranium, juniper and lavender. Tonka, vanilla and a not-listed tobbacco serve as the warm counterparts, the sweet, sinous smoke that hold all together. Heaven!

The first 2 hours of Blue Jeans are awesome. Then it looses strength, and gets much closer to the skin, therefore, the price. The drydown is still sexy and sweet and smells good, but a bit flat. But, hello? for 20 € i can spray every 2 hours!

Tome I La Pureté for Him, besides having a way too long name, smells quite good. Our Lady of the Sephora Store offered me the sample as an incredibly unique, niche-type almond fragance. Don´t even mention me Sephora right now, please. I am really pissed off with them in this moment: they have retired the whole Serge Lutens line from the store of my city, and i used to have a quite nice discount several times a year. I found out this when i went to buy the last bottle of Chypre Rouge (which was already discontinued, so it was even more rare), yesterday. So uncalled. I am aware this has nothing to do with the review but i needed to share it with you. OK, back to Tome I-La Pureté for Him. I was saying they told me it was this groundbreaking almond fragance. And, ah-ah. What it delivers is a lot of wood. The aromachemical type. I am not against it. It starts with a nice fresh bergamot and neroli, but after 2 minutes the radiant woody wings are fully unfolded, and although it is a nice effect, i find it a bit distracting and spoiled the neroli i really feel like smelling today. The almond is there, at the background, kind of creamy, not very bitter, blended with tonka. The addition of a fine musk makes it smells very clean, like clean floors and rooms, thoroughly washed just with water. It is strange this image pops in my mind, because the ingredients are not exactly my idea of a spotless, well ventilated corridor, but instead rich, earthy, sophisticated. It can also look it is going to be quite heavy and warm, and it is not, i think it could be an all-year-round fragance, if you really like it. The gaiacwood with the "magic, radiant" woods recalls my beloved Miel de Bois, just without the Miel. Underneath the allure of wood, there is an honest, almost frugal, quality in T1LPFH. It is also quite modern, unusual enough, and still likeable. I can see how i like it more now that i liked it this morning.

A tantrum can be fun to watch. Give me somebody really good looking, with a strong sense of drama ( from Tyra Banks to Vivien Leigh, or my boyfriend, look no further) a safety distance and popcorn, and i will be a happy, entertained man. Maybe thats the reason i dont find L´Orchidee Terrible as bad as others seem to! Although what they say about her it is all true: it can be screechy and synthetic. But as Franfan says, that´s the terrible part, we cannot say we weren´t warned. The literature-inspired Imaginary Authors collection can be extremely literal, word for word. And i think that is the beauty of this brand, it verges on the Demeteresque experience, since you really smell asphalt and month of may, but it is somehow poetic, and fun. I don´t know if it is the right approach, when writing a review, trying to "get" the perfume, putting aside personal preferences... i don´t do that always. Sometimes, specially if the fragance is supported by trillions of followers, i have no mercy. I rarely bother to review a fragance i don´t like or doesn´t make me feel "something". But in this case, i have to say, i do get this terrible orchid, and , why not? I like it.

It has very lady-like elements, expressed in a kind of unisex and aggressive way, which is surprising and different, it could be an Etat Libre D´Orange creation. Synthetic, yes: hairspray, nail varnish, aldehyde fumes, once you are older than 15, there is no such thing as "natural beauty" after all...
It fits a bipolar model, with anger management issues and a criminal record, following the steps of Mrs Campbell. I have to say, the scary, crazy part of L´Orchidee calms down. After you barely dodged the heavy crystal ashtray she threw directly to your head, she recomposes, and will look, again, like Naomi politely seated in that court at The Hague, saying she didn´t know they were blood diamonds. Then we basically have an acidic, high pitched vanilla orchid, heavy on the aldehydes, not extremely sweet, over a super-clean musk, that, yes, is so clean is fresh. Like new clothes. It gets smoother and close to the skin.

Quite frankly, I have smelled way worse things. So, to sum up, give her 30 minutes to have her tantrum, and you have a silky, discreet fragance. My only problem, too close to the skin, but i had fun.