Top Rated Reviews of the last 7 Days

Darafayen 3 days ago
4 Awards
150+ "Noirs" in the fragrance game - but here you do get what it says on the bottle!
When I first applied the extrait version of the recreation of Isabey’s Lys Noir from 1924 last year, almost instantaneously the image of Helmut Newton’s Bowie-influenced Woman into Man, published in Vogue Paris in 1979, popped into my mind. To me they both epitomise the concept of “noir”: Perle de Lys Noir nods to the femme fatales, the dodgy backstabbers and the shadowy underbelly of the Art Deco influenced times of the Parisian mid 1920s. Newton, some 50+ years later, dresses his androgynous women in Yves St Laurent whilst blurring the boundaries between private and public play. In a sense both perfume and photograph examine the ambiguity and morality of their times from an in depth but decidedly nocturnal and carnal vantage point. Both ladies could wear PdLN.

Perle de Lys Noir opens with a burst of black pepper that adds punch to a very sensual and heady mix of silky and creamy white flowers including, of course, lily and a tuberose/jasmine pairing, a subtly vanillic heliotrope and dualistic narcissus as well as the oriental exoticism of ylang-ylang . Soft ambery woods form a musky wrapper for the narcotic florals, increasingly in the dry down, while from the depths incense and animalic facets provide an air of mystery and suspense.

The presentation is stunning and deserves mention. Many of the original flacons for Isabey were designed by Julien Viard and produced by the likes of Baccarat, Bobin Freres Glassworks and Rene Lalique. The pearlised flacons, however, were conceived by Andre Jolivet and manufactured by the Nesle Normandeuse Glassworks (https://isabeyperfumes.blogspot.co.uk/p/history.html). Today Parfums Panouge produces beautiful shiny black pearl bottles for Isabey and houses them in a gorgeous double hinged leather coffret with silk lining. Shame that this range doesn't receive use, and praise, more widely.

1 Reply

Oriane 5 days ago
1 Awards
Lily of the Valley Soliflore
Notes: Lily of the Valley, Lilac, Ylang-Ylang, Wisteria, Sandalwood, Clementine.

Firstly, I must say that this fragrance comes in one of the cutest bottles I have ever seen. It really has personality plus. Unfortunately, I cannot say the same about the fragrance which was launched in 1998.

The only note I detect in Forest Lily is a very green, slightly dewy lily of the valley. I love ylang-ylang and sandalwood, but I can detect neither one, not even in the deep dry down. I cannot detect any sweet clementine either. This is just a straight forward, linear lily of the valley on my skin.

As a lily of the valley solifore (to my nose) this is a perfectly acceptable fragrance, although I think Diorissimo is a much better lily of the valley fragrance. However, if you do not want to spend more on Diorissimo, Forest Lily will give you essentially the same vibe for a much lower price point.

Upon initial spray, Forest Lily has excellent projection and sillage. Within about an hour to an hour and a half, it begins to settle down, and projection is within arm's length. For a vintage Avon, longevity is quite good. I have been wearing it for more than three hours thus far, and it is still quite noticeable. At this rate, I estimate I easily will get between six and eight hours of longevity.

Forest Lily is an innocent smelling EdT that would be lovely for Spring and Summer. I think it would even shine in cold and rainy weather conditions. It is smells pure, clean, and unoffencive, but it is also rather boring. I imagine a quite young girl wearing it, but I see no reason why an older woman could not wear it as well. Applied with a light hand, it would be office friendly, too. I do not dislike it, but I would not repurchase it.

Fragrance: 4/10
Projection: 7/10
Sillage: 7/10
Longevity: 7/10


Oriane 2 days ago
1 Awards
Journey with Encens Mythique
I finally tested the enigmatic Encens Mystique last evening. Never before in my life have I experienced a perfume like this. It was not quite what I expected it would be. It was quite light and wore very close to the skin with only faint projection and sillage but quite good longevity. I can still detect it on my skin this morning more than twelve hours later, albeit faintly. Ironically, I could detect neither incense nor rose in it, which I found quite disappointing.

However, in the deep dry down it changed into something which I find quite difficult to describe. It became slightly salty---a note I had never before experienced---and animalic, no doubt due to the real ambergris Wasser used in it. As I lay in bed it wafted around me like some sort of mystical aura, and I sort of lost my sense of sound as I contemplated the perfume. It gave me the feeling of being underwater wherein one loses the sounds of life on the surface as the water fills one's ears. It made me think of whales and of the ocean. It actually conjured images in me of marine life in a vast ocean far from any land mass and any other human beings. It felt, for want of a better word, like a primordial essence of some sort which breathed a sort of melancholia around me. It invoked a certain species of loneliness that oddly enough was not at all painful. In fact, it felt quite peaceful, quite meditative and serene.

Finally, as I began to drift off to sleep, the smell of the perfume suddenly caused me to remember a film I once saw only a snippet of many years ago, albeit a riveting snippet. It was a psychological horror film called "Open Ocean," and it was based upon a true story. Here is a link to a synopsis of the film. I had not thought of this film in years.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_Water_(film)

I am utterly amazed by this perfume! I cannot recall any other fragrance which took me on such an emotional "journey." It was as if the perfume led my willing spirit outside of the confines of time and space.

Fragrance: 10/10

Projection: 5/10

Sillage: 5/10

Longevity: 10/10

2 Replies

Gtabasso 13 hours ago
this is not your candied or powdery violet
This goes on with violet in the top, and it's there in the base but in the middle notes you get a huge dose of oakmoss, which I usually hate. But, in this fragrance it deepens and richens it. I also smell some patch and/or amber in the base. This is more complex than I expected. I have the vintage.


DorothyGrace 4 days ago
Growing on me.
I tested this from a manufacturer's sample that I picked up around 2015.

Overall, I quite like it and had I been given a bottle for a gift I would certainly make my way through it using it as a daytime perfume when venturing out to hospital appointments, shopping, visiting friends, and other outings of the same ilk. It's quite outside of my standard fare with my penchant for Arabians and heavy patchouli hitters so it isn't one I would wear around the home whilst huffing at my arm for the joyful exercise of contemplating note formation.

I find this a waxy, powdery offering that reminds me of the feeling that some of those spray polish come cleaner items from Mr. Muscle or Mr. Sheen have. Although it doesn't smell like it there was one in particularl I used to love fragrancing my house with by Mr. Sheen called Pot Pouri. So, I definitely find the smell pleasant.

The note pyramid is rather bare and surprised me when I looked at it after coming up with my scented feelings on this fragrance. I get citrus and vanilla but also I get a fruityness which is somewhat melon like along the lines of the melon like fragrance I get from some Milani lipsticks. Also, it seems rather like a jasmine heavy hitter with some very soft kitchen spices, maybe cinnamon

Strangely I didn't get orange blossom at al so hoiked myself upstairs to smell my bottles of bergamot and neroli. Taking a sniff of bergamot and then R.C. or taking a sniff of neroli and then R.C. gave me together a really powerful orange smelling orange blossom so I guess for my nose this R.C. fragrance doesn't smell like orange blossom.

If I had a full bottle I think this would grow on me and could be something I would enjoy wearing in the summer - it seems right for summer. On the other hand if I had a bottle of Shem el Nessim I'd be wearing that all summer so R.C. might not get much of a look in.


Isabelle1 3 days ago
Dessert
I like "crème brûlée" but only to eat.... not to smell like I have just prepared it...Still adore the original poison the most...


Isabelle1 3 days ago
Love this a lot...
Was wearing it yesterday evening, I love this fragrance more than 1 of CC which i also own, I got so many compliments, for my taste it is divine in the beautiful summer evenings of the French Riviera, at least it is on my skin. When people asked me which fragrance it was, I just said it was my secret because in a way I feel not so comfortable by announcing the name etc...


Rmf1112 2 days ago
Lemony Ambrox Aquatic
I think this one gets a bad rap because it has similarities to sauvage but doesn't just smell exactly like it. So Imo, the people who hate Sauvage don't like this, and the people who are Sauvage fans dont seem to like it because its not Sauvage. I do not care for Sauvage myself, but I am a big fan of the Bvlgari aqva line and this stuff smells great. Also the wife doesnt care for Sauvage either (Said it just smells like soap), but thought this "actually smells really nice". To me, it has more going on than Sauvage, with the aquatic and melange of basenotes going really well with that Ambrox.

I mostly get a bright citrus, but with depth, blended well with the aquatic ambroxan which really does feel kind of oceanic overall. It is more sweet than Aqva Amara, and not as heavy but definitely still performs well. I don't get the seaweed vibe from this that the original Aqva has, which I actually really enjoyed but understand it can be polarizing, and it also doesnt have that bitter frankincense from Amara, that again i personally like, but some do not. I dont mind if its not a hit in the fragrance community, it just means the price will go down and everyone else wont smell like it. I really like this release, maybe more so than Aqva Amara, depending on the weather, I can see using this on the hottest and most humid of days without reservation, where maybe the Amara could be a bit much in that scenario. If you like the Aqva line but want something not as heavy, check this one out.