Top Rated Reviews of the last 7 Days

Darafayen 37 hours ago
8 Awards
Animal Farm anno 2017
Honestly, if you think that Malle's Al Layl was too hardcore do not even look at this. Put aside hopes of golden strands of saffron, promises of sweet rose delights, the delicacy of violet or even the warm embrace of oriental amber until hours into the dry down or even the next day. But I doubt that most casual oud lovers would even have the stamina to reach that stage.

What we have here is a bona fide assault of Cambodi/Hindi oud that combines all the smells you could encounter if you were to spend a weekend on a farm in the middle of nowhere. There are moist and dark moldy aspects, fecal and feral animalics and even a selection of ripe Limburger cheese will tantalise your senses - and initially there is nothing at all that would tame the oudian onslaught. There is a sexiness about this that would escape all but the most serious oud heads - and it's those that would happily embark on a pilgrimage to Harrods and ravage their bank account to the tune of £1250 for a bottle that would make a pair of stinky socks appear a cheap and readily available olfactory treat, whilst most mortals would assume rigor mortis or turn away in horror holding their heads in their hands.

When I woke up in the morning Nebulous had dried down into a wonderfully fresh-spicy woody-animalic scent as eventually the rest of the combo was allowed on stage. But make no mistake, this juice is more uncompromisingly oudy than the Malle (and less flashy) and is definitely more challenging than, say, for example, Ys Uzac's Oud Ankaa, which is more like the dusty and dry woody darkness you'd imagine to emanate from a Pharaoh's tomb. It's nothing at all like the sweetly safe Roja gum resins, the homeopathic oud dosages of the likes of Xerjoff or the innocent spicy nichey samey rose ouds. Nebulous is definitely worth a try if one is up for a challenge. I felt so sorry for the guys in the overcrowded subway last night :-)

3 Replies

EauMySoul 7 days ago
3 Awards
Happiness in a bottle!
Such a fizzy, wondrous, floral delight! It is like carbonated perfume....so much bubbly aldehydes I am surprised it doesn't spew when you spray it! The most effervescent fragrance I have ever smelled. The dry down is absolutely heavenly...still fizzy but a more gentle version compared to the larger than life opening. Has the signature Tauerade in the base....and while very different from the other Tauer creations, there is no mistaking this is Tauer. Noontide Petals is so lively and delightful, it is impossible not to smile while wearing it. I think if worn regularly, it could reduce caffeine usage and even cure depression. :) Happiness in a bottle! One of my favorite fragrances. Noontide Petals is pure heavenly bliss!

2 Replies

StellaDiverF 4 days ago
3 Awards
Another Gourmand Boozy Vanilla
Nuit et Confidences is basically a boozy vanilla on my skin. It starts with boozy, even a bit syrupy plum pudding, an aspect that also frequently appears in boozy amber such as Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe and Hermès Ambre Narguilé, for exemple. The creamy, sweet vanillin soon surfaces, along with a subtle tobacco touch, probably a facet of tonka bean. But the boozy plum fruity aspect is still the dominant element compared to creamy vanilla.

The fragrance is fairly linear on me. The combined effect of boozy plum, creamy vanilla and a soft touch of smoky wood and tobacco, strongly reminds me of Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille and Le Couvent des Minimes Eau des Missions. Nuit et Confidences appears more fruity and more youthful than the Guerlain, while Eau des Missions has a deeper resinous undertone than the Annick Goutal offering.

Nuit et Confidences has a heavy to moderate sillage, and lasts about 8 hours on my skin.

Although technically I don't find anything alarmingly jarring to my nose in Nuit et Confidences, I can't help considering it redundant and unremarkable. Boozy vanilla/amber is such a crowded genre, that one can find anything ranging from budget friendly to high-end offering, from frilly fruity gourmand to handsome smoky tobacco. In comparison, Nuit et Confidences lacks the nuance and has a relatively strong emphasis on the fruity boozy plum, which leaves me the impression that it's engineered to exploit the gourmand trend and make a quick sale.

I would recommend it to those who is on a quest for a gourmand boozy vanilla, mostly because its price is more approachable than a few high-end options. However, style-wise, it's a completely different animal from the other Goutal fragrances before 2015. Therefore, I would not recommend it to fans of Goutal's previous releases.


RhythmnHues 12 hours ago
3 Awards
The Different Vetiver
First things first - Hats off to Jean-Claude Ellena! I believe no one else could've done this. He is undoubtedly one of greatest contemporary perfumers and also one of my personal favourites of all time. If one could perceive perfumery as music - for the nose, then JC Ellena could be likened to a contemporary composer mainly influenced by impressionist masters like Debussy & Ravel but with strong shades of late romanticism from Schubert, Schumann and Brahms. He takes his main motif/idea and juxtaposes it with some dissonant contrasts while keeping it very minimal and transparent all the time. But at the same time he embellishes each stage of the movement in a very romantic manner choosing very traditional, pleasing, consonant harmonic ornamentation. One can see this across his compositions, especially for the house of Hermes. (I think he probably got the most freedom from this house in terms exploring of his own creativity.) And I think Vetiver Tonka is, arguably, his pièce de résistance.

Vetiver is a grass native to India but is also found in abundance across Haiti, Indonesia, China, Java, and Reunion. The oil extracted from its roots has a distinctively complex scent ranging from wood shavings, wet earth, fresh green grass, roots to ink, licorice, nutty-roasted sugar, and cold-humid air - depending on it's origin. So a perfumer is to not only know what material to use but know each strain of that material intimately well to know what works best for the brief at hand. For instance, in my opinion, the vetiver used here is Bourbon vetiver (Reunion, Madagascar etc) which has more of the nutty, chocolate-y facets. Using Haitian vetiver or another kind would've taken this composition to a completely different place. Ellena takes this main motif of Vetiver & Tonka and gives it a form going from nutty (hazelnuts) to caramel-y/cacoa (praline) to an almost burnt sugar accord. And embellishing this main idea is a touch of flowers (Muguet) in the heart and some soft woods (Sandalwood and cedar probably) in the base just to balance the composition from getting overwhelming. And a dash of tobacco for some contrast and probably to accentuate the dry hay-like facets of tonka beans. Utterly fascinating! It's light, airy, sweet and extremely pleasant to wear. Quite a unique take on this multi-faceted root. Highly recommended if you are open to a different vetiver.

9/10

1 Reply

Giesta40 5 days ago
2 Awards
Underrated, but so good!
Strong fragrance, woody, green, tobacco, leathery, spicy, soapy in the draydown. Same vibe of Anataeus from Channel but without the animalic note. Masculine fragrance for guys over 30's. Only to use in cold weather. Difficult fragrance in the opening: stong pine and oakmoss, but after 30 minutes you will love it, and the draydown is the best part. Great longevity and projection. One or two sprays is enough, more than can be dangerous for your reputation. Excellent relation price/quality, (the best on my opinion) 15 euros for 100ml (in Europe)


Hüzünra 35 hours ago
2 Awards
Berlin in Winter by Baruti (2015)
Warm and rich, cozy and comforting, wooly-thick oranges and maroons and lavenders, in deep, darker shades, touched with coffee and rose and resins, reminiscent of 'perfume oils' - that is how Berlin in Winter welcomes you upon its kingdom. Captivating and pleasant, immediately inducing the feel of familiarity, helping to relax tense muscles in awaiting of the fragrance attacks of the new perfume…
Do I value this reassuring perfume composition ? Or do I want an olfactory adventure in the land of tried and tested, often tired, land of 'rich-and-warm-orientals'? Yes, and yes, or no…
It boils down to the mood of the moment, of your particular mindset frame: what are you looking for right now? Sometimes we choose to walk a well trotted perfume path, coiled in the shawl of easily recognizable olfactory themes.
At other occasions, we crave that moment of being arrested by the unexpectedness of the perfumery calling, that shout that oozes from the bottle onto your body, and shakes you in the 'WOW!' moment.
Panta rhei! (Gr.): nothing is settled, everything flows…, even thought Berlin in Winter is rather linear perfume without any significant developments through time. My impression was that in the early moments coffee was a little more pronounced, while a little later an excellently blended accord of lavender, myrrh, and leather plays more central role in bringing all the notes together.

Baruti's perfume gets you body and senses slow down: the world around melts into resinous stillness of winter seen from behind the stained glass of fireplace-warmed interiors. And what I especially appreciate is the lack of vanilla or benzoin, or any other sweetener; general avoidance of the 'sweet' in creating the warming atmosphere of the fragrance. Now that the autumnal season is on, and the winter is coming (sic!), we sure are to observe a pull from all corners of the perfumery world into all those 'cozy winter' perfumes, overkilled gourmands, vanillalikes, and so on, and so forth. Over that sweetly-sick possibility, Baruti's perfume is more than welcome, confidently flaunting into our noses that 'warm' in the olfactory universe, does not have to be 'sweet', thank Goddess!

And the only issue I have with Berlin in Winter is that it impels the description which sounds more tacky and not as compelling as the actual redolence of the wondrous perfume itself.


Anthology 14 hours ago
2 Awards
A good floral
Beside Rush, I am not an owner of a Gucci perfume. None of them suits me. I am sorry I had no chance to smell Envy because I heard it was a beautiful creation.
Now, let’s talk about Bloom. Tuberose is a nice flower but it can be very heavy. 2017 seems to be a tuberose year: Twilly, Gabrielle and now Gucci Bloom. I bet that by the end of the year there will be more perfumes that have tuberose as a starting point.
The fragrance opens with a sweet tuberose. The sweetness comes from honeysuckle, a flower from heaven with a gorgeous smell. So, I get a sweet, wonderful tuberose because it is the diva in this composition.
The perfume is linear with a tuberose which dominates the other notes. Sweet but not sickly, sharp but not annoying, loud but not disturbing. A classic composition made for all those who love white flowers.
The dry-down is a little powdery and balsamic maybe due to orris root, but still full of tuberose.
Projection and longevity are very good.
Gucci Bloom is a very nice fragrance where the tuberose is very well represented. It is different from others perfumes and bold in its own way. A good floral for the floral lovers.

3 Replies

Giesta40 6 days ago
1 Awards
Old school
This is an old school of the 80's from the house of Channel. I don't want to be unfair but this one as the same vibe of Quorum, but Antaeus is much much better. Very masculine, spicy, woody, leathery, a llittle bit sweet and resinous in the drawdown (from the labdanum) I cannot imagine a lady using this power stuff. This has a beast longevity, after 24 hours I still smell this scent. They don't do perfumes with this power anymore. If you use it you will be noticed for sure, and you have sure that no one will smell like you. Is very 80's? Yes, but, men, give it an opportunity, is not an easy perfume but he will grow on you.


StellaDiverF 6 days ago
1 Awards
Refined, Versatile Iris-Violet-Suede
On my skin, Bruma is a flowing harmony of iris, violet and suede. It opens with mildly carrot-like and starchy, but mostly waxy iris, and slightly tart fruity ionone reminiscent of violet. If I sniff closely, there is also a discreet green pepperiness mixed within. Occasionally, I also get brief impressions of waxy lipsticks, but nothing overtly powdery.

The fragrance doesn't have any dramatic change, but moves from one phase to another in incremental steps. The waxy texture of iris is gradually replaced by a abstract, supple suede. There's just a tiny trace of hay to enhance the animalic tenderness of suede. I suspect that there might be something similar to heliotropine as well, because the whole effect of musky violet-suede is reminiscent of a heftier dry down of Hermès Cuir d'Ange to my nose.

Just as I thought Bruma would remain this plush violet-suede, the nutty aspect of vetiver makes an unexpected appearance and adds a bit of grit in this otherwise elegant suede, which is a welcoming twist to Bruma.

Bruma has a soft sillage and lasts about 8 hours on my skin.

Although Bruma is hardly innovative as a polished floral suede, it's solidly made with its little twist of nutty vetiver, and far from being banal. Its lack of dramatic change might fail to leave a strong initial impression, but its smoothness and fluidity would make it a refined yet versatile fragrance in various settings. I'd definitely recommend it to fans of elegant iris-violet-suede fragrances, especially if you favour a more abstract, effortless style.


VincentSt 6 days ago
1 Awards
The best manly rose scent?
Lyric Man is one of few scents that are in my collection that contains the note of rose. 
At first I thought "Rose in a men's fragrance?", but after some time of wearing this fragrance I'm considering myself a big fan of this fragrance. I would consider the scent as my signature scent!
The rose note fits this scent as no other men's fragrance in my opinion. The fragrance has the typical oriental, metallic kind of a smell as like almost every other fragrance by the house of Amouage that is based in the middle east state of Oman, UAE. 
 
I'm always trying to discover new scents on my fragrance journey so I went to my local fragrance store "Alsterhaus Hamburg" and have sampled this fragrance. That was my first contact with a fragrance made by an arabic company as Amouage is.
Before I have just smelled, let me say "western smelling" kind of fragrances from brands like Creed, Dior or Tom Ford. I could definitely tell the difference between the western and eastern perfumery and I liked it pretty much.
 
The rose note is very deep and bright and comes off manly and not too feminine. The notes of Bergamot and Lime are making this scent very unique.
My first impression were very positive. The scent comes off very soapy and clean in a special, non-mainstream kind of a way. The soapiness might come from the saffron or Ginger that contains this fragrance.
Fragrances like Gucci Pour Homme II for example also contain these notes and I guess the soapiness let me say, come from at least one of these two notes.
 
The fragrance also contains the following heart notes: Angelica (that is also used in fragrances like Angelique Noire by Guerlain), Galbanum, Ginger, Nutmeg and Orange blossom. 
In my opinion, the fragrance is perfect because of the perfect blending of this fragrance. It's a mix of a feminine based rose note and fruity, spicy and woody components.
 
A negative point with fragrances by the house of Amouage in general is their longevity. I got the reformulated bottle with a magnetic, silver cap. Vintage bottles have a black cap that are non-magnetic.
The vintage version lasts about 10-12 hours on my skin, the reformulated version lasts about 6-8 hours what is fine for me!
 
If you're a person that likes the note of rose and does not enjoy other rose based fragrances, you should give this fragrance a try. Make sure you get yourself a sample or visit your local niche store and make your own opinion.
For me it's perfect for fragrance enthusiasts that are not that familiar with rose based scents or for persons who have smelled and enjoyed designer fragrances. Women can pull off this scent as well for sure!
 
I give this fragrance a 8,5/10 since the fragrance has an incredible good scent but it does have performance issues at times.