Top Rated Reviews - 2019

Carlitos01 2 years ago 16
9
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
7
Bottle

Vétiver ou Vétiver Extréme, mais toujours Guerlain, bien sûre!
Vétiver has become a common name through perfume wearers, a name as common as lavander, wood or lemon. Nevertheless vétiver as a raw material is almost unknown by the majority of the vétiver enthusiasts. In perfumery, vétiver is an essence extracted from an Eastern Asian weed grass called "chrysopogon zizanioides" or "vetiveria zizanioides". It's usually classified as a woody scent. It exhales a dry, musty and woody aroma and is associated to masculine fragrances. Rest assured as well that the vétiver is a gender defying note as it is successful blended in many feminine perfumes. Depending on its varieties, vétiver accords may present bitter chocolate, woody, smoky. earthy, loamy, warm, nutty, spicy and green facets.
The iconic vétiver designer for the last few decades is Guerlain with Vetiver and Vetiver Extreme. Guerlain Vétiver has been out there forever, and deserves its reputation as "The Vetiver Fragrance". You can’t go wrong with the current iterations as a starting point for a vétiver fragrance. Just start here to get the full-on vétiver experience. With both Guerlain Vétiver perfumes you’ve tried one of the best, and you can now move on to other vétiver experiences. Older Guerlain vétiver formulations are brighter, with more lemon and bergamot. The later EDTs are dryer, more austere and less sunny.

Guerlain Vétiver has been launched in 1959 - contemporary of Cabochard - and aimed at a fresh, woody, natural, sober and elegant fragrance.
The fragrance opens on the spontaneous, glittering freshness of citrus fruits namely orange, bergamot and lemon. At the heart, spices such as nutmeg and pepper intensify the fragrance, before giving way to an once innovative accord in perfumery, crafted on the basis of vetiver, tonka bean, nutmeg and tobacco, a fresh and woody accord for a fragrance with sheer cool and clean elegance.

With Vétiver Extrême launched in 2007, Guerlain offers a different and original interpretation of Vétiver. Whereas one is fresh and woody, the other is just as woody but more aromatic. Ever loyal to the original framework, this extreme accord is more intense.
The fragrance opens with orange spicy floral hints through the bergamot note enhanced with lemon. At the heart, pepper and nutmeg are blended in a stimulating elegant accord. Then comes vetiver, which deploys all of its woody sensuality on the skin thanks to the help of the cedar austerity and the bittersweet almond facet of tonka bean.

Let's see how Vétiver (V) and Vétiver Extreme (VE) compare with each other through scoring:
______________________(V)__________(VE)___________________________________________________
Scent opening............9.0.................9.0 (Similar citrus accords mastered by Guerlain)
Scent Dry Down.........9.0.................8.5 (V is more alluring and VE is more intense)
Longevity (h) ..............8.0.................8.5 (VE has a slightly bigger longevity than 9 hours
while V has less than 9 hours)
Sillage (ft)....................8.0.................8.5 (V: up to 5-6 ft /2 h projection; VE: 6-7 ft /2.5 h)
Versatility....................8.5.................8.5 (above average for fresh fragrances)
Usability......................9.0.................9.0 (Literally everywhere except very cold outdoors)
Compliments..............8.25...............8.5 (Both scents are good at attracting compliments)
Uniqueness.................9.0.................8.0 (V has been quite innovative; VE is a flanker)
Quality........................ 9.5.................9.5 (quite high in both cases)
Presentation...............7.5.................7.5 (a matter of opinion)
Price.............................8.5.................8.5 (V: €30 / 100 ml + taxes; VE: €30/100 ml+taxes;
Testers are € 5.0 cheaper )
_______________________(V)__________(VE)__________________________________________________

- Average:................8.57/10.0.........8.55/10.0
between 7 and 8 => above average;
between 8 and 9 => recommended;
equal or bigger than 9 => don't miss it;

Opinion on this fraternal match:
Both fragrances are very good and provide a similar satisfaction. Value for money is quite high in both cases. The choice only depends on your personal taste. You may decide for the more aromatic and intense one or for the more formal, alluring and a tiny less intense one.
Recommended? I recommend both fragrances.
Blind buy worthy? Yes for any of the Vétiver versions.

Music: Elvis Presley - "Green Green Grass Of Home"
5 Replies

Carlitos01 2 years ago 14
10
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
10
Bottle

The Journey to my centre of the Earth
My signature fragrance up till 3 years ago was Boss Number One. Halston Amber for Men along with Bvlgari Man in Black succeeded up till 15 months ago. Then, for a year or so, I chose the fragrance MIB Essence as my signature. The reasons seemed obvious to me:
- It is the type of scent that pleases me the most, but some other fragrances do it also.
- I am really in love with the bottle, but some other fragrances do it also.
- It's quite versatile and wearable for my taste, but some other fragrances do it also.
- It has an above average performance but some other fragrances do it also.
- It's a magnific scent to use at leisure, but some other fragrances do it also.
- It has an attractive pricing for the "package", but some other fragrances do it also.
- Easy to order so far, but some other fragrances do it also.
- It is quite unique, but some other fragrances do it also.
- It's an obvious choice when I don't know what perfume to use, but some other fragrances do it also.
- It's a that fulfills all the conditions above, and no other fragrance I own does that.
- If I would be Robinson Crusoe, as a priority I would choose this fragrance to salvage from the wreckages.

When I first bought it, I confronted it head to head with the original Man In Black. They are somewhat similar in the opening, but Essence has more "muscle"and the drydown goes into a different direction. The spices and the woods of Essence have been turned up significantly and there is a cocoa heart note that remembers me of Valentino Uomo. Essence is drier, less sweet and with a less strong and more elegant booziness. The MIB musk note seems to be almost absent in Essence and I don't miss it. It has some very much appreciated common vibes with Pure Havane, SpiceBomb Extreme, Valentino Uomo and CH Men Privé. I would apreciate also an oud soft vibe, but I rely on other specific perfumes to get the non versatile oud note when I feel in the mood for it.
This is a perfume that I usually use for my own personal pleasure, not caring much for "ladies olfactory pleasure" although it happens in a reasonable amount. It's a very mature fragrance - I am in my 50's - and not intended for youngsters. As appropriate seasons, late Fall, Winter and early Spring are obvious choices, although I wear it at night independently from the season we are in.
It projects intensely for the first two to three hours. Overall I get a longevity of more than 9 hours with three sprays on skin and two sprays on clothes. Maximum sillage is around six to eight feet.
It's quite unique and so far, I never met anybody using it at the same time as I did.

THE SCENT JOURNEY
Upon first spray, the fragrance reminds me of Pure Havane due to a cherry tobacco dirty and loud scent. As Man in Black Essence does not have a tobacco listed note, I imagine that my nose is fooled by the boozy rum note blended with oriental spices and bitter orange (this one resembling a dusty floral note), resulting in an intense dirty seductive tobacco vibe. I cannot identify individual spices and it may be just a mix of cinnamon, clove, vanilla, pepper, mace, nutmeg... I do enjoy the opening a lot.
This booze and oriental spices accord leaves a stunning scent trail and a statement of "I am here !".
The development heart fades slowly the boozy rum note, while the bitter orange & dusty florals keep escalating, toning down the spices. A sensual cocoa & soft leathery vibe is quite present at this stage, while the woods (orris for sure but maybe guaiac also) start to reveal it's alluring character.
After one hour or so the scent opens up with balsamic, dark and tonka sweet woody notes. The oriental spices are equally matched and balanced with the sweet dark woods.
As I am a dark woods scent lover, I can only state that the begining of the drydown It’s really a very pleasant one. The calm finally arrives with the drydown full development. The scent ambiance is one of a creamy, sweet & dark woody body with a soft leather undertone. A skinscent is still detectable still by the 9th~10th hour.
The fragrance journey offered us an impressive boozy beginning, a glorious oriental & cocoa heart, and a sexy dark woody dry down. Compliments and admiration are guaranteed from both sexes.
The journey is now complete with ample satisfaction. Bvlgari Man In Black Essence is an olfactory happiness switch.

Scoring my former signature scent:
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
Opening.....................10.0 (Fantastic: Spicy and boozy)
Drydown....................10.0 (Fantastic: Sweet, woody and smoky)
Longevity (h) ..............9.0 (up to 9~10 hours with 3 sprays on skin)
Sillage (ft)....................9.0 (6~7 ft with 2.5 h of good projection)
Versatility....................8.0 (Above average pending for colder temperatures)
Usability......................8.5 (High; Not suitable for any hot temperature event)
Compliments..............7.5 (Agreable, elegant, alluring, but not a compliment champion)
Uniqueness.................9.0 (almost unique, but is a flanker of MIB)
Quality.........................9.0 (above average quality, good cap & lock on sprayer)
Presentation...............10.0 (a matter of opinion)
Price.............................8.0 (€ 40 for a 100 ml tester + taxes)
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
- Average:................8.90/10.0
between 7 and 8 => above average;
between 8 and 9 => recommended;
equal or bigger than 9 => don't miss it;

Opinion on this admirable Essence:
Very good presentation and overall very pleasant and elegant, making it an easy choice. You will feel different and with a lot of class! Above average performance. The price is competitive for its quality and looks.
Recommended? Yes.
Blind purchase worthy? Yes.

Music: Emerson, Lake & Palmer - "Lucky Man"
2 Replies

Carlitos01 2 years ago 11
9
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle

Dry orange peel jelly with woody vetiver and a flintstone spark
There is a Portuguese Christmas cake called "Bolo Rei" ("King of Cakes") made with dried fruits (including lots of dry orange peel), herbs and spices (fennel, tarragon, natural vanilla, ...) and is usually baked in bread ovens burning mineral coal.
Terre d'Hermés smells like this cake. Probably that's why I tend to consider Td'H as a Winter scent. On the other hand I always considered Bolo Rei to be a Spring or a late Summer cake, meaning that Td'H also evokes those seasons to me as well.
If you look to this scent as a cooking recipe, it's all about candied orange with grapefruit, spices (lots of pepper), a hint of vanilla, dry scented smoky herbs (strong vetiver) and some orange & lemon peel. Make sure you bake it in a mineral coal oven to get that smoky spark scent that I love so much. The flintstone touch note makes this fragrance really remarquable.
The result is an universal pleaser, dense and unique. Certainly, Jean-Claude Ellena experimented with a lot of natural citrus blendings, before creating this marvelous scent.

My rates for this candied dry orange-vetiver potion:
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
Scent Opening: 9,5 (dirty astringency of orange with some grapefruit and earthy pepper; You get the flintstone spark almost at the opening)
Scent Drydown: 8.5 (woody, green and earthy vetiver with cedar)
Longevity: 8.0 (above average, 8 hours with 3 sprays)
Sillage: 7.5 (above average, with 4~5 feet sillage, 2 hours projection, 3 sprays)
Uniqueness: 8.5 (All its clones are not really close to this natural countryside scent. From expensive Red Vetiver to inexpensive Citrus & Woods, you just get faint resemblances)
Wearability: 9.0 (Fall and Spring + Summer nights + Winter days + Christmas)
Versatility: 9.0 (people tend to appreciate this fragrance in a lot of different situations)
Compliments: 8.5 (very good, but not the best)
Quality: 9.5 (quality ingredients; excelent packaging and bottle sprayer)
Presentation: 8.5 (very spartan but very unique and pleasant)
Price: 7.0 (52 Euros for a 100ml tester + taxes)
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
Overall rating: 8.50/10.0
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;

Advice: You will never be into fragrances without a bottle of Terre d'Hermes.
EdP or EdT? I kind of prefer the EdT version. It's more wearable and more recognisable for this fragrance unique scent.

Music: John Denver - "Take Me Home, Country Roads"

Carlitos01 1 year ago 10
8.5
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle

A forever young mâle
[short review]
Twenty five years went by since Jean Paul Gaultier asked Francis Kurkdjian to design the reference perfume for men that would stand as the foundation of his fragrance offer. JPG took care of the fragrance external clothing and its slick and striped design remains also a reference till today.
In my opinion, Kurkdjian's main quality is to understand customers requisites, either being it a chief fashion designer or somebody lost in a mall trying to elect his perfume of choice. And the task was not easy. It had to be suitable for all seasons and all situations (well... maybe not for the gym or the beach). It had to be a real versatility king. And Kurkdjian did it!

Le Mâle can be used in all seasons and in almost all situations. In my opinion, it excells in the office or in a daily use. It's also perfectly suitable in formal events, a night out, hosting or visiting friends, clubbing... you name it.
It's fresh enough for young people general use due to lavender and mint. It's also sweet, woody and resinous enough to cope with a scent behavior fit for the life after dark, mainly due to a fantastic vanilla note assisted by tonka and cinnamon. Performance is more than adequate, and can even be considered very generous by any standards. My judging refers to the last but one batch.

Some people complain about it being a bit of a "deja vu" perfume. Being a successful fragrance for 25 years now, it would be strange for this not to happen. Quoting Apicius: "We may speak for or against, but we keep on speaking. Market loves it!" Do I use it a lot? Not really! My big four year old 200 ml flask is missing only about 10% of the original juice content, but I don't want to miss Le Mâle in my closet. I do love to remember its scent either by using it from time to time, or by just spraying the back of my hand for some night snifs. I cannot help but notice that its effect on women is quite obvious. All women notice this perfume, and maybe, just maybe, four out of five like it. The remaining one lady out of five loves it.

Barbershop? a bit!... Mainstream? a bit!... Synthetic? a bit!... Recommended? of course!
Le Mâle list of clones or similar scents may be the longest of the perfume industry and confirm the general acceptance of this fragrance. The list may include names as Cuba Gold, 212 Sexy Men, Jacomo Rouge, Luna Rossa Sport, 360º White for Men, Reflection Man, Scotish Man/Cabana, Body Kouros... names comming both from clone makers as well from very well established prime brands.

Carlitos01 2 years ago 10
8
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
6
Bottle

Frigus, dulcis et aromatibus lignum!
Fragrance objectif analisys.
It opens just a bit powdery and with very global "Sauvage" accord due to a very fine ambroxan blended with a heavy dose of a fresh bergamote citrusy note. The initial powder is enhanced with rose facets giving way to a citrusy floral bouquet (to my nose, bergamote, rose & jasmin mainly) always in a very fresh woody ambroxan type of frame.
This resulting fresh but powerful ambroxan type woody frame, with a fainting citrus and a persisting floral bouquet, is then prolonged for a smother but long and still heavy drydown with musky and patchouli earthy facets.
It sounds complicated described, but it's quite easy for the nose to perceive this notes and scent voyage.

Understanding the scents and the feelings.
All through the opening, heart and bottom we get a familiar scent feeling easy to associate with Sauvage EDP and its satelites. We are in an ambroxan or ambroxan derivatives world of scents, with a fresh resinous woody frame that begins very citrusy and becomes more and more floral and with a bit of powder and sweetness. The voyage slows down with a more common drydown with added musk and patchouli. It's impossible not relating it to the Sauvage EDP frame, although I am not claiming that the two fragrances are extremely similar. In Office For Men you get way less common pepper and the ambroxan accord evolves in a more fresh and woody way. On the other hand, Sauvage EDP does not indulge you with the sweet and powdery floral bouquet evolution.
A somewhat similar comparison may be established with the fruity batch of Aventus, where you get more sweetness mainly with pineapple, but you also evolve to a fresh ambery woody frame with the persisting fruits blended with birch, vétiver and a high quality ambergris.

In summary.
Forgetting all my previous words, we are in the presence of a [citrusy fresh] - [woody fresh] fragrance. It follows known paths of existing well established fragrances to ensure success and general acceptance. It innovates a bit with the usage of the exquisite ambroxan ingredient and its family derivatives of cachalox and paradisone. Alberto Morillas through his knowledge and "liaisons" with Firmenich played the important part in this creation. And the fragrance seems to have a performance somewhat bigger that the traditional Morillas bias.
The fragrance is manly and far from being unisex. I do believe that the aimed targets of creating a crowd pleaser with upper class references has been achieved, although its presentation it's a bit on the cheap side.
Office For Men seems to be an adequate masculine perfume for Spring and Fall, meaning as well an extended usage for cool Summer nights and sunny Winter days
... And yes, it's perfect for the office environment
... And yes, it's overpriced and if you fancy an "unique" fragrance, it's not this one
... And yes, it's quite synthetic, probably the only way to achieve this final effect without over expensive ambergris.

Let me rate this Morillas creation as carefully as possible:
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Opening: 8.5 (Sauvage like with less pepper)
DryDown: 8.0 (pleasant but in the Morillas synthetic trend)
Longevity (h): 8.5 (Up to 8 hours with 3 sprays)
Sillage (ft): 7.5 (up to 5 ft sillage and 2.0 h projection with 3 sprays)
Versatility: 8.0 (above average; avoid hot Summer days & cold Winter nights)
Usability: 9.0 (almost everywhere)
Compliments: 8.5 (better than just OK! Men like it better than women)
Uniqueness: 7.5 (my text was pretty explicit about this)
Quality: 8.5 (above average with a new trend: Synthetic quality!)
Presentation: 6.5 (too simple but not offensive)
Price: 5.0 (overpriced - €160 for 100 ml)
___________________________________________________________________________________________
- Average: 7.77/10.0
between 7 and 8 => above average;
between 8 and 9 => recommended;
equal or bigger than 9 => don't miss it;

Opinion about about Office for Men by Fragrance One:
I like it the same way I like Sauvage EDP. The global rating suffers from the overpricing opinion.
Blind buy worthy? No way with the current price, but if you are a supporter of Fragrance One, it's your decision.

Review note: I was offered a 3 ml decant to make this review; Thanks for the opportunity.

Music: Cheap Trick - "I want you to want me"
1 Reply

Carlitos01 2 years ago 9
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
10
Bottle

The Châteaux of the Loire alluring scent
I tried several times the regular Layton and enjoyed it without however being amazed.
In brief, the "regular" Layton opening show us a dominant apple over an also strong lavender. Then you perceive romantic and shy embarrassed floral notes. After a bit of pepper, the scent evolves to a creamy, spicy, woody finish rich in patchouli, vanilla and sandalwood... a bit common although very well blended.

I've had this Layton Exclusif for more than 24 hours and I've waited patiently until now - with a clean nose and unscented skin - to hit 3 sprays on the back of my hand.
This Exclusive version is a bit more unique. By sprinkling the "Exclusif" for the first time, I received my first surprise. I do not understand why this perfume is not an "independent line" instead of being a flanker, because its relationship with the regular Layton is close to nil. To the usual comment of "The two Laytons have the vanilla in common" ... I can only object it to be a weak argument because, in all PdM vanilla, is a note that never to be missed.
This "Exclusiv" opens without any apple (thank God) but with a strong almond somewhat disconected from the other notes. This opening polarizes opinions, either on disliking this bewildered almond note, or on the wonder of staying with an almond olfactory block. This second option is only valid for noses of loving a cloying almond note.
The perfume becomes unique again with the three drydown musketeers: Laotian Oud, Vanilla and Coffee. Cardamom, as well as sandalwood and gaiac, are detected but they do not command this ship.
The coffee note, although quite sweet, is unusual and different from the breed of aromatic coffee beans we experience in A*Men or Kilian Intoxicated for instance. It smells more like an espresso syrup of coffe and sugar you see in the bottom of a cup ... interesting ... I like it a lot. The note of oud is very well behaved and far from being a reminiscent of the very intense, dry and animalic Laotian oud. I imagine that the gaiac wood and the sandalwood play an important role here, surrendering to the strength of the oud note but taming it at the same time. The vanilla also joins the party, almost as per PdMarly's signature obligation, but in an intensive way and not inconspicuously.
The civet note? Where is it?... it just did not leave the den!
The performance is well above average with a longevity of up to 10 hours, with a dispersion of more than 8 feet and up to 3 hours of projection (with three sprays on the back of my hand).
In my closet, this flask has two seats available. I can park it with well-behaved Easterners such as Swiss Arabian Shaghaf Oud or Ajmal Shaghaf, or along with its brother Herod.
Can it be considered a masterpiece? I would respond with a YES, always remarking that its price is above its real value. The good presentation of Marly's Parfums makes it easy to sell this perfume.

Rating the exclusivity of Layton:
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Scent Opening:.........8,0 (nice almond and florals)
Scent Drydown:........9.5 (great oud, woods, coffee and vanilla notes, very well blended)
Longevity:..................8.5 (above average, 8~10 hours with 3 sprays)
Sillage:.......................8.5 (average for the existing notes, 6~7 feet with 3 sprays)
Uniqueness:..............9.0 (a lot more "unique" than the rtegular Layton)
Wearability:...............7.5 (Spring nights + Winter + Fall nightss)
Versatility:.................8.0 (clubbing and night out; formal occasions)
Compliments:...........8.5 (above average but not in a podium place)
Quality:......................9.5 (quality ingredients; excellent packaging and bottle sprayer)
Presentation:............10.0 (very nice although similar to all Marly perfumes)
Price:..........................5.5 (75 ml Eau De Parfum - € 160.00 plus taxes)
___________________________________________________________________________________________
Overall rating: 8.50/10.0
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Opinion:
A very nice but expensive tamed oud fragrance for clubbing and dining out.
Recomemended?
No! Do try it before you buy it, if you want to risk paying such an high amount. Nevertheless for PdM fanatics it's probably a "must have".

Music: Pink Floyd - "Brain Damage, Eclipse"
2 Replies

Elysium 1 year ago 9
9
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle

Love All Its Perfect Imperfections
As soon as I came across the Mexico stories collection on Zara official site I was looking for assaying it. The collection as of now includes two pieces, A Day in Mexico and Mexico Soul. These new releases have been created by the perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, they smell different from one another, and both are gorgeous, allegedly for day and night wearing respectively. The package is similar to the recent summer releases of New Your stories collection by Jerome Epinette, which covers Cool Heights, Greenery, and White Soho, a subtle carbon box with flipping doors and a colored elastic band for closing them, some hints from the perfumer written inside and a description of the collection. The bottle is dark brown, chic, yet I expected a magnetic cup to complete that format as a high-end Zara's cologne, which is miserably not there.

First things first, according to the box's ingredients, the pyramid features lavender, sage, pineapple, melon, cinnamon, cedar, and vanilla other than the three main notes listed here and on the Zara official site. It's a warm, cozy, spicy cross between a gourmand and a semi-spicy oriental, a nice release by Zara that succeeds because it smells good and doesn't try to do too much. While it is familiar, I'm not automatically reminded of any other specific recent release of Zara. To my nose cedar is quite prominent from the beginning and sticks around for most of the life of this fragrance, with whiffs of pencil shaver now and then. Thankfully I adore cedar as a woody note and together with the vanilla and cashmeran, which here actually just smells like a sort of sweet amber, it creates a very soothing vibe.

Mexico Soul confirms the modern masculinity trend, and its opening is promising: sensual cardamom, sweet cinnamon and a kind of like peppercorn drenched in warm, aphrodisiac bourbon vanilla. It opens up reminds me of Azzaro Wanted. They aren’t the same, Mexico Soul is much better in my mind, and doesn’t have that same lemon note sitting there. The cardamom, however, really hits the same chord in the beginning. Again, this one smells better, it’s got a fresher vibe with the minty and peppery accord, and the oncoming warmth of the rest of the notes.

In the heart, in contrast to the intoxicating scents of spices and vanilla is a fresh and delicious pineapple blended with tropical melon. A few minutes into the wear, the sage note, struck my nose. I like it, helps to add a layer of freshness, in a warmer and sweeter type of cologne.

The next phase of this Zara's jewel, the vanilla, really begins to come through. The cardamom is stronger at first, but thereafter it’s the vanilla’s fragrance. The first thing to notice here is how well the vanilla and cardamom pairs together. When the vanilla comes in, it is a sweet/spicy blend, with a solid amount of wood at the base. Cedar with a slight amber added. The pepper, sage, and cardamom bring a warm spice that livens up that already incredible vanilla/cedar combination.
The very basis is a mixture of uncompromising masculinity embodied in cedar and cashmeran wood notes and the animalistic attraction of amber and leather, a soothing suede. As aforementioned, the amber vibe should come from the cashmeran and is not like the ambroxan we are used these days.

Projection wise, the sillage of Mexico Soul is pretty darn strong. It’s not the loudest bomb of a fragrance ever, but it’s not going to require very much. I used about three sprays, during my test run, and that got me a noticeable scent bubble around me. This cologne hits at least 8 hours or more of wear. I sort of lost track of it, during this wear, but it was there throughout the day. It’s not weak and it performs very well. You’re not going to get ripped off by the performance and you just have to try on your skin in these autumn days. Seasonally, this one is for the colder months. Its too sweet and has a certain thickness to it, that’s not going to be great, in the high heat. Outside of that though, this one can hang beautifully in the air.

In my opinion, this is the perfect "date night" scent due to its sweet, alluring vanilla base, but since there's also a degree of freshness present in there, it can be used for work and more casual situations as well, if you go light with it, and over the course of a day you appreciate it more rather than become sick of it, even though night out and clubbing are the best occasions. There are no discordant notes in the blend, nothing is out of place, and overall the ingredients feel like they're of good quality, mostly synthetic yet good (i.e. molecules from Firmenich, Givaudan, etc.). I think Mexico Soul is an excellent option for someone who kind of likes scents like Invictus, Versace Eros, and Azzaro Wanted, but ultimately finds them too crass, abused, and juvenile to wear on any kind of consistent basis. Mexico Soul takes a more elegant approach, it's a bit more refined. In the era of sweet masculines, this is an example of one that's been done the right way. Thumbs up.

Side note: I might be wrong, but compared side by side on my hands, Mexico Soul is closely akin to Emporio Armani Stronger with You, the original release not to be confused with the Intensely.

-Elysium
1 Reply

Carlitos01 2 years ago 9
10
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
9
Bottle

The sweet soft storm
With this Rouge 540 Extrait I learned how a name that would fit very well a model of any Ferrari car, plus the extra load given by the title "Extrait", raises the expectations of any perfume. After so many comments among my "perfume friends", I decided to give it a go with a test.
It can be regarded as a sweet fragrance, half intimate, half mild, half animalic, very sensual and almost edible. The evoked scents pass through almond candy, Alicante clod, milk caramels and pineapple barbecue, such is the richness of the sweet aromas aroused.
The fragrance behavior is similar to a hurricane. It begins and evolves in a simple and almost ashamed way with a greedy almond and a saffron hesitant between showing some sweetness or revealing a more earthy and leathery mood. It starts as a simple suggestion but that makes us appreciate the aroma that our skin keeps emanating over the time . He or she who passes by, allways looks back, but looking through us as if only to search for the origin of this almost divine emanation. And then it grows, and grows, supported by lighter notes of jasmine and cedar, but above all, by a sumptuous surrounding ambergris that sticks to the skin and merges with it.
It is a unique perfume and bearing in mind its pungency, it is distinct even from the "regular" 540 EDP. Its longevity and sillage are somewhat above average, lasting close to 8~9 hours with more 6~8 feet top sillage, and almost three hours projection after three sprays on the back of my hand.
In my closet, this bottle will be parked among those 9 or 10 bottles that I do not let anyone to try, just look at.
Can it be considered a masterpiece? YES.
It is simply the one of the best amber, saffron and ambergris notes I have ever experienced.

How does this 540 handle with maths?
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Scent Opening:........10,0 (sweet perfection)
Scent Drydown:........9.0 (the drydown becomes less unique if compared with the opening perfection)
Longevity:..................8.5 (slightly above average, up to 8~9 hours with 3 sprays)
Sillage:........................8.5 (slightly above average, up to 7~8 feet with 3 sprays)
Uniqueness:.............10.0 (I cannot think of any other to compare it besides the other 540s)
Wearability:...............8.5 (Spring + Winter days + Fall + Summer nights)
Versatility:.................9.0 (almost everywhere except gym and seaside)
Compliments:...........9.5 (just my doughter does not like it)
Quality:......................9.5 (quality ingredients; excellent packaging and bottle sprayer)
Presentation:............9.0 (High standard but not the best)
Price:..........................4.0 (£300 ~ $425 for 70ml)
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Overall rating: 8.67/10.0
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Opinion: Near perfection at a price.
Recomemended? No! Do try it before you buy it, if you want to risk paying such an high amount.

Music: Bob Dylan - "Hurricane"
5 Replies

Carlitos01 2 years ago 9
8.5
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle

The Amouage memory of El Bali Medina in Fes
There was a deep minty scent in the air. It was certainly due to the strong tea made with mentha leaves that everyone seemed to be sipping. But the ambiance was even greener here and there. The esplanades were crowded, as it is usual in Fes, with middle aged men wearing djellabas and babouches. Many of them preferred the transparent bitter absinthe to the fresh mint hot beverage. There was also in the air a bitter and disturbing aroma of artemisia and angelica that seasoned the absinthe and fought the reigning freshness of mint.
Whomever is looking for the desert arabic oud and rose scents should not wander around all the time in El Bali. As long as you keep your path away from the "souk des tanneries", where the acrid and skunky leather may burn your nose, you will encounter the gentle scents of herbs, spices, balsams and oils in every twisty alley of the Medina. As usual I was lost amidst the swirling envolving scents, but also did not make the slightest idea of where I was. Judging from the aspect of the shops and the noise made by the craftsmen, I should be in the tinsmiths' souk, and close to the "Place Seffarine".
There was a strong scent of incense in the air now. I was probably not heading for my aimed destiny but my nose was feeling in heaven. Resins, oils and Incense, together with the smell of woods, sweet spices and herbs were dominant now. I started to recognise the looks of the "Souk au Henné". A miriad of flask with different shapes and sizes struggled, for shop space, with the baskets and plates of colored powdry spices, wood chunks and incense pieces. Sweet resins and balsams were the dominating scent.
I just felt like I could breathe that divine air forever.
Whenever I want to mentaly return to the tiny streets of the Fez medina, I just whiff myself with a couple of Amouage Memoir Man sprays, and as if by magic, my mind starts to wander again through those redolence souks.

Rates for this Mint-Incense deep green perfume:
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Scent Opening:.........9,0 (fantastic mint and absinth, but I miss some sweetness)
Scent Drydown:........8.0 (deeply resinous, balsamic and ambery but still a bit dark green)
Longevity:..................9.0 (Above average)
Sillage:.......................7.5 (Average)
Uniqueness:.............10.0 (Uunique)
Wearability:...............9.0 (Fall and Spring + Summer nights + Winter days)
Versatility:.................7.0 (You're cold but still need to feel some freshness? That's Memoir Men)
Compliments:...........7.0 (not very good, but with some bursting fans here and there)
Quality:......................9.5 (quality ingredients; excellent packaging and bottle sprayer)
Presentation:............9.5 (very nice although similar to all Amouage men collection)
Price:..........................6.0 (140 Euros for a 100ml flask; it used to be more expensive)
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Overall rating: 8.32/10.0
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Advice: This scent is probably aimed only for mint-absinth-frankincense combo lovers. It may even be your signature scent if you fit in this recipe.
Recomemended?
No! Do try it before you buy it, as with any unique scent. It's also to expensive for a blind buy even if you think that you are going to love it.
Have you ever been to Fez? No other fragrance reminds me this old city as much as Amouage Memoir Man.

Music: Youssou N'Dour - "7 Seconds"

Carlitos01 2 years ago 9
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle

Up to Heaven and down to Earth
Terre (Earth in French) as a fragrance is defined by ripe orange together with a deep earthy woody scent and a touch of a sparkle from a lighter. Open your mind and olfact for the full effect of this Jean-Claude Ellena blending. It is what a well resolved person should smell like: fresh, clean, slightly bitter, earthy, slightly spicy, sophisticated, classy, serious, grown up and mature.
This is the scent of a self sufficient and confident man, aged 30 years and up, and who doesn't need to show off in any way. He is confident of how much he is worth and has his own go-to style; That's all he needs and just sticks to it. He may use this fragrance in a board meeting room, at a night out with friends, on a romantic date, or in the bed room, but always elegant, notable, and high class. At the same time, he is down to earth. This fragrance just makes him stand out in a league of his own. and takes him into a cloud of distintion, whether he wears a suit, or jeans and a shirt, under any weather, season, location or occasion.
It's THE classical versatile fragrance, but in an extraordinary good way! in summary it's a very elegant "gentleman" perfume with an overall feeling of even balance, smartness and sophistication.

The fragrance general scent is natural, too natural maybe when you may expect some synthetic odors. It may be made with synthetic ingredients to, but it really stands out as something pure and clean; actually clean and dirty at the same time.
It opens with citrus notes, a mature orange at its best and grapefruit. The mature citrus & orange notes are just fantastic and make way to its ADN of an orange-vetiver later evolution.
The heart stands for a somewhat subtle change with the introduction of a sharp sparkling grey flintstone. Nevertheless the transition is light and smooth as a breeze.
The bottom notes suggest me the growing woody and slightly dark accord, mainly due to the vetiver and patchouli notes. The subsequent dry down is pure pleasure, with the long lasting citrus fainting slowly and giving way for the earthy woody dominance.
Terre is quite adequate for all seasons. It has enough freshness for warmer days and handles the colder weather with a dry down balanced by some sweetness, woodiness and earthiness.
Think of an almost dirty, bitter grapefruit with overly sweet orange peel mixed with woods, fougéres and spices. It's not openly sweet, which is rare for a citrus scent. My amazement with this fragrance, besides its great scent, is to be a citrus perfume also proper for Autumn and Winter. Most citrus scents are relegated to be used solely in warm weather. Terre is actually nicer with cooler temperatures.
Its good performance will help you fight a colder early Spring, a windy Fall or a sunny Winter day. It delivers the best performance during Fall and Spring, sun setting and sun down occasions, late evenings and maybe with a chilly touch of wind.
Surrounding people will notice you for sure! The woody and the natural dark and dirty citrus notes give you a brilliant background that makes exale distinction and feal happy, comfortable and elegant all day and through the night.

Here is my sparkling math scoring for Terre EDP:
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Scent Opening: 9.5 (close to perfection)
Scent Dry Down: 9.5 (close to perfection)
Longevity: 8.0 (3 good sprays may last up to 8 hours)
Sillage: 8.0 (6 feet at its peak with just 3 sprays and 2 hours strong projection)
Uniqueness: 8.5 (Terre EDP is not to blame about the "look alikes" Red Vetyver, Derby Club House Belmont, Fattam, Citrus & Wood, Cuir Vetiver; But you have the EDT, Eau Fraiche and Vetiver flankers to deal with)
Wearability: 9.5 (avoid Hell, Artic and Antartic)
Versatility: 9.5 ("all around" versatile fragrance with many women claiming it to be unisex... my wife for instance!)
Compliments: 9.0 (This fragrance is close a compliment magnet)
Quality: 10.0 (Top quality ingredients, nice flask, nice sprayer with ingenious locking mechanism)
Presentation: 8.0 (no faults, simple but elegant)
Price: 7.0 (75 ml non tester with the €75 pricetag at major net dealers)
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Overall rating: 8.77/10.00
- between 7 and 8 =above average;
- between 8 and 9 = recomended;
- bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Advice: This scent is not aimed for youngsters. Many middle aged men (and some women) may find their signature scent with Terre.
Recomemended?
Yes but do try it before you buy it, as it is a bit of an unique scent. It's also to expensive for a blind buy even if you think that you are going to love it.

Music: Rick Wakeman - "Journey to the Centre of the Earth"
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