Top Rated Reviews - 2020

Carlitos01 11 months ago 18
9
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle

An elegant but true cowboy could use this perfume
[short review]
I like leather scents! For me they come in four types:
- Extra sweet opening but with strong leather - not bad but I really would prefer a strong leather scent without a raspberry note. So I prefer this Tom Ford Ombré Leather to Tuscan Leather and their satelites like Rasasi La Yuqawam, Al Haramain Leather Oudh and Parfums de Marly Godolphin.
- Animalic or Earthy leather - that's probably the option I like the most. Usually we encounter an animalic or earthy secondary note and an ambery background. Some examples may be John Varvatos Dark Rebel, Mancera Wild Leather, Royal Leather by Charriol, Cuir by Molinard and ... Tom Ford Ombré Leather. Oud, saffron, moss, musk, patchouli and sometimes even castoreum, are options to season this type of leather scent.
- Extra animalic or earthy or spicy - Even if not a bad perfume option, most of the times I don't consider them a leather fragrance any longer. That's the case of my beloved Amouage Epic Man and Christian Dior Fahrenheit, where other strong or intrusive notes outshine the leather.
- Peaceful and sweet metrosexual leather - I may even like the fragrances a lot but the leather note gives up its leadership to sweet or smooth notes like vanilla or iris. We may find examples with Azzaro Naughty Leather, Vanilla & Leather by S.T. Dupont and Valentino Uomo Intense.

Having positioned Ambré Leather in a "leather fragrance market menu" let me just state some other brief opinions about this perfum.
It opens with mild spices (cardamom and saffron) and just a bit of a white floral sweetness. The heart proposes you a strong dark animalic leather a bit tamed by herbs (vetiver, moss) and framed by an amber background. I like it very much. It's different from Tuscan Leather and I like this one better. Its performance is above average and the presentation is nice and unique in the Tom Ford line of perfumes. Its versatility and wearability are limited to the colder weather and mainly at night, and not really suitable for the office or small spaces.
I just don't like it to be overpriced like so many Tom Ford fragrances. I do recommend it provided it fits your budget.

Music: Midnight Cowboy Theme by Harry Nilsson - "Everybody's Talkin' "
4 Replies

VanAllan 7 months ago 11
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
10
Bottle

A future classic...
The best (and most masculine, I might add) from DH line...a stunning dark leathery feeling, combined with ambrette, iris, smooth oud and warm sandalwood. Different enough from DH and DHI to worth owning, like a deeper/fuller version of both. Great longevity/sillage and an elegant appearance for a self confident man. My own rating 9.5/10, strongly recommended.

VanAllan 5 months ago 11
9
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle

Inviting masculine myrrh...
A mature aromatic-balsamic fragrance for confident men.
Strong patchouli with a green bergamot starting notes may seem 'oldish' to some people but the drydown after worth waiting for...
You will be rewarded with a delightful oriental aura, not too strong, but smooth, warm and distinct, because the amber/myrrh/vanilla combination is doing a really great job here.
Nothing harsh, slightly soapy, overall a sexy long-lasting and inviting smell for fall/winter seasons. My personal rank 9/10, recommended.

VanAllan 3 months ago 10
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Elegant woody-spicy-incensy
A very good fragrance, way above its price tag, that stood the test of time.
L'Eau d'Issey PH Intense starts woody spicy with all the citric notes balancing each other perfectly, adding in background a great cardamom-nutmeg combo, very well integrated. When the middle notes take the stage, you can feel a warm-spicy smell (lotus, saffron, cinnamon), joining naturally the remaining of fresher top notes. After a few hours, it keeps some of the dark freshness on my skin, becoming more woody-incensy and showing an air of elegant man.
Very good value for the money and pretty long lasting (8-10 hrs). My personal rank 8.5/10, recommended.


VanAllan 9 months ago 10
8
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle

Aromatic dusty woods
First encounter reminded me of a different version of L'AP Timbuktu (without incense).
Green citruses and woods, surrounded by dusty amber-saffron, that slowly progressed into a sandy oud-semi-sweet-cypress dry-down. Hard to describe actually, it never gets too sweet, just projects an aromatic dusty warm musky woods composition. Above average performances, a good recommendation for fans of L'AP Timbuktu and/or FM French Lover (which I also own and love both). My ranking 8/10.

Carlitos01 9 months ago 10
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

Paris, a raincoat and a dry Martini
Paris ... Already some time ago I lost interest in the touristic Paris, the Paris of the Champs Elysées, the Eiffel Tower and the Galeries Laffayette. I like to breathe the Montmartre air, walk through its narrow streets full of history, and sip a few drinks in those bars that still reverberate the libertarian thinking of the 20s and the 30s. I mean places like "Closerie des Lilas" and "Harry's New York Bar ". I miss those moments when, by myself or with my girlfriend, I drank a cold Alsatian beer to fight the night heat, or maybe a Dry Martini with absinthe to warm my raincoat on a rainy dusk. I still hope to spend long hours there, and maybe one day I will come across the ghost of Hemingway and we will have Dry Martini together. I will not complain if Scott Fitzgerald, James Joyce, Henry Miller, Oscar Wilde, or even Toulouse-Lautrec and Charles Aznavour also join in. The “lost generation” - a term coined by the promoter of this XXth century movement, the writer Gertrude Stein - did not hesitate to meet for lively parties, full of characters that represented the Parisian madness, like the beautiful Kiki de Montparnasse. Also were not missed long conversations soaked by absinthe and Dry Martini cocktails.
The Dry Martini recipe comes with different amounts of vermouth and gin. For some, the measure is fifty-fifty, that is, the dose of gin used is the same as that of vermouth. Others already say that the real (perhaps the perfect) Dry Martini has to have more vermouth than gin. Others like the gin to completely drown the vermouth. That was Ernest Hemingway's preference. For him, the vermouth should be nothing more than the shadow of the Martini bottle over the glass full of gin. And should it be beaten or just stirred? Believing in the best known spy in the world and his distinctive taste, James Bond always asks for his Dry Martini beaten and never stirred.
I still prefer my Dry Martini seasoned with absinthe. I think its herbal touch is indispensable. The aroma is divine. I think it would be an excellent inspiration to create a perfume ... or does it already exist?

. . . . . . . . Brit Rhythm for Him Intense - Dry Martini and Absinth by Burberry . . . . . . .
The absinth fresh opening with artemisia / absinth, vermouth, cumin and pepper gives me the vibe of a very nice bittersweet glass of vermouth and gin on the rocks. By adding a couple of mint leaves... it becomes just delicious!
Opening aside, this perfume stands for me as a leather, tonka and woods blending, with those notes being easily identifiable, after the Dry Martini boozy top accord.
The ambery leather and cashmeren wood notes are very present but are soft and tamed. I classify this essence as very aromatic, very versatile and quite easy to wear. The initial minty fresh and bittersweet absintheand vermouth impression makes way for a refined mildly sweet drydown influenced by vanilla and tonka notes.
This Intense version is better and richer than the regular Brit Rhythm. However, it is not really groundbreaking or even new for the perfume market. I have seen reviewers claiming this perfume to be similar to Black Afgano, Spice Bomb, 1 Million, La Nuit de L'Homme, Charriol Black, CH Men, Mercedes Benz Intense, Eros, Zino, Egoiste, and fifty others colognes besides the original Brit Rhythm. Of course it does not make any sense. That's the issue with a mainstream fragrance, even if a good one. It looks similar an all bunch of fragrances but it is equal to none.... but similar to Black Afgano? good gracious!
In my skin, the perfume lasts between 7 and 8 hours, it projects for 2 hours, and its sillage has a top figure of about 5 feet. I would say it is slightly above average in what performance is concerned.
It is a somewhat mainstream perfume, very suitable for a huge range of situations and just not suitable for hot summer days and work out.
The bottle is very imaginative and designed with very good taste. It stands out in any shelf.
in my opinion, it's probably the best Burberry along with London.

How can I measure this fashionable Dry Martini with Absinthe?
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
- Opening: 9.0 (herbal fresh with vermouth and spices)
- DryDown: 8.0 (leather and woods)
- Longevity: 8.0 (3 sprays can last up to 8 hours)
- Sillage: 7.0 (up to 5 feet with 3 sprays; it projects for 2.0 hours)
- Uniqueness: 8.0 (It has its own individuality sustained by the boozy opening accord. On the other hand it's a bit mainstream for the remaining development)
- Usability: 9.0 (Almost a four seasons fragrance for outdoors or indoors, day or night; avoid the hot summer days)
- Versatility: 8.5 (Excellent for wide number of occasions and great for the office and general daily wear. Don't use it in the gym or in the beach)
- Compliments: 7.5 (You will smell very good to everybody, but nobody will whistle at you due to the scent)
- Quality: 9.0 (above-average quality ingredients, good flask, nice sprayer)
- Presentation: 9.0 (very good presentation in my opinion, although a bit feminine; If you display it in the toilet, your wife will accept it....the burberry pattern does wonders)
- Price: 9.5 (EdT Intense, 100 ml non tester for € 22.00, a bargain)
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
Overall rating: 8.41 / 10.00
- between 7 and 8 = above average;
- between 8 and 9 = recommended;
- greater than 9 = do not miss;

Recommendation: This is a top mainstram fragrance with the added bonus of a (dear to me) boozy opening. I never care much about mainstram fragrances, but if you are looking for a non obtrusive fragrance to use everyday, I do recommend this one.
Blind buy? Why not for this price.

Music: Pink Martini - "Bolero"
1 Reply

VanAllan 6 months ago 10
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle

Wonderful masculine aromatic...
A modernized version of the classic Dior Eau Sauvage, suitable also to younger people, as it presents sweeter and fruitier top notes with smooth lavender and resin mixed in, followed by an aromatic-spicy heart combined with some musty-green aldehydes, mellow jasmine and a creamy sandalwood that lead the way to the long-lasting base where it loses some of the fruity-aromatic accords in favor of woody-ambery tones (vetiver, oakmoss, cedar, patchouli).
On my skin it has a wonderful evolution from fruity-aromatic top to woody drydown and a great projection/sillage in the first 1-2 hrs., lasting on me up to 6-8 hrs.
Overall a very solid quality fragrance from Dior at a still fair price. My personal ranking 9.5/10. Highly recommended.

Carlitos01 11 months ago 10
9.5
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
7
Bottle

The divinization of youth
The origin of the word "Kouros" comes from ancient Greece, and refers to the naked statue of a young man standing. It does not represent any young individual in particular, but the very idea of ​​youth. It was a sculpture theme widely used in ancient Greece, and in dedication to the gods in sanctuaries (usually identifying Apollo) and also as a funerary monument. The "Kouros" were usually sculpted with the left foot preceding the right foot, the arms at the sides, and the eyes looking straight ahead.
This concept and its representation was a very dear theme also to the man Yves Saint Laurent. The perfume is portrayed "in house" as embodying the spirit of youthful conquest, and perfection in the male gender. As a fragrance, Yves Saint Laurent intended to conceive a "perfume for a living god". Kouros, as a product concept, inspires the athletic aesthetics of the male body, in an appeal to sensuality. It is dedicated to a generic man, but a manly one, triumphant, and sure of his power.
With Kouros, YSL, developed a bold new concept as an intense aromatic fougére developed with strong animalic and spice notes, but above all, deeply masculine.
The Kouros perfume has proved to be an extremely bi-polar proposition. You either love it or hate it.
Spicy herbs such as laurel, sage and coriander, curbed with aldehydes, start an intense opening that extends with also intense aromatic notes of cloves, geranium and sweet cinnamon. But the perfume's DNA imposes itself as a scent that is associated with a half-human, half-animal masculinity. It is the strong accords of leather and musk, amber and civet, that define the fragrance's honeyed bottom stage and impose themselves as an aura around us.
As I read it in a critic's column, I would like to mention that: "In opposition to its creation process, this perfume is not for a Cristiano Ronaldo or a David Beckham. It is for an Eric Cantona or a Paul Gascoigne ."

How can I rate this divine fragrant concept?
________________________________________________________________________________________________
Opening:......................9,0 (an alluring fougére burst)
Drydown:...................10.0 (an animal, carnal, honeyed deep scent)
Longevity:....................9.0 (up to 10 hours in my skin, with 3 sprays)
Sillage:..........................9.0 (8~10 feet sillage with 2.5 hours of strong projection)
Uniqueness:...............10.0 (it's Kouros!)
Wearability:.................8.5 (not really for war weather)
Versatility:...................8.0 (it's just not suitable for sports, gym or the seaside; avid the vicinity of sensible noses)
Compliments:.............8.5 (well above average, but has its haters)
Quality:.......................10.0 (well above average)
Presentation:...............6.5 (even if I understant the concept of similarity to an ancient Greece column, I am not forced to love its white plastic look)
Price:.............................7.5 (currently sells around €65.00+taxes)
________________________________________________________________________________________________
Overall rating: 8,73/10.00
between 7 and 8 =above average;
between 8 and 9 = recommended;
bigger than 9 = don't miss it;
Opinion: If you can handle and love civet, leather and musk this is your scent.
Recommended? Yes, both as a perfume and an industry icon.
Blind buy worthy? Not really. Take it easy and try it first.

Music: George Michael, Elton John - "Don't Let The Sun Go Down On Me"
1 Reply

VanAllan 3 months ago 10
9.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
10
Bottle

Marvelous creation.
Another marvelous fragrance from Dior, sadly discontinued in 2017.
I think it's important to keep in mind that this 2012 parfum is not an 'intense' version of the traditional Eau Sauvage. This one is pretty much different and, imo, the main difference here is the masterful simplicity of combining three wonderful masculine notes (bergamot, myrrh and vetiver). The result: a balsamic, exotic, sweet-citrusy masterpiece and, in my opinion, the reason of this release success.
More oriental and a little bit darker than its Extreme 2010 predecesor, with a solid myrrh note, very well combined in the whole of the composition, surrounded by a zesty citrus top and an earthy moist vetiver base. It lasts 8-10 hrs on skin, with a noticeable presence in the first 2 hrs, a versatile and compelling creation. My personal rank 9.5/10, highly recommended.

Carlitos01 12 months ago 10
9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle

A dark enchanted forest fragrance
[short review]
Zara really surprises me sometimes and S4nd4lwood, in my opinion, is perhaps one of the best fragrances ever produced by Zara. Even the bottle is beautiful, discrete and elegant. Only the name obeys to puns that Zara likes to do sometimes ... Okay, I can live with that.
It is a linear fragrance, a dark masterpiece composed of notes of leather, smoke, wood ashes and sandalwood. It has just a little bit of iris (as a base note and smelling more of iris root) and ... where is the opening bergamot listed note? It doesn't matter either, because you don't miss it. It has a slightly synthetic connotation but it doesn't bother me.
It is a dry, dark, animalic and woody perfume (yes it has EdP concentration). It is a simple composition and the mixture was designed without appendages of amber, incense or candy to mask its simplicity.
With three sprays, it shows a high longevity - more than 8 hours - and an average sillage up to 1~1.25 meters.
When I tried S4nd4lwood for the first time, I immediately remembered two other very respectable fragrances: Cuir Intense by Guerlain and Santal 33 by Le Labo. Both are more complex and less synthetic, but much more expensive as well. I even like the bottle from Zara more than the bottles from Guerlain and Le Labo.
For the price (€ 12.5), you should go to a Zara store and buy it blindly. I do recommend it!

Music: Magical Forest Enchanted Celtic Woods Album
4 Replies