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Parma
Top Review
19
Quiet, exotic gem
I have a preference for quiet fragrances (when I wear them myself). And for fresh and handcrafted. That's why I like this one.
I also have a heart for outsiders and this one is certainly one. His relatively low level of fame is probably not related to the independent fragrance, because in principle he has the character of a classic men's cologna with a lot of citrus, a slightly spicy soapiness, and woodiness in the background. In principle, because this is a Japanese edition, which has a slightly exotic effect due to the Yuzu fruit and has Japanese restraint. Sillage is not present and on my skin it is only audibly perceptible for about an hour. At the latest after three hours you have to replenish your batteries. That's a bit tragic and will certainly limit the potential buyer group.
It begins with a combination of very bitter, herbaceous lemon verbena, the translucent, slightly exotic citrus note of the yuzu and a restrained use of basil, which contributes a light spiciness that, in combination with the tart citrus, develops a perceptible soapiness and lends the fragrance a discreetly classic masculine orientation. The exotic citric quickly becomes rounder and more fruity (fruity notes in Fragrantica are clearly indicated) and additionally somewhat sweetened by the fig. The sweet mastic resin (indicated on basenotes) may also contribute to this. This makes it appear a nuance denser and you can get the impression of coconut. Overall, however, it remains light and permeable. The woods indicated in the base - actually only the soft sandalwood - appear hyperdecent, so that the citric-fruity main impression is held through completely. The yuzu fruit always sets the tone before the fruit notes. On Fragrantica there are some general spices listed for the base, but from my point of view they are not perceptible.
All in all, I would describe the character as exotic citrus-fruity with a slightly soapy touch, which gives a casual impression, but with a nonchalant elegance similar to that of an "Eau Sauvage". However, the Dior is brighter and more lively, "Yuzu Man" rather the grey mouse. Both have in common that they seem timeless. In my eyes, the wild water tends slightly towards the retro, while the caron neither has this tendency nor is modernly oriented.
In comparison to a current Yuzu fragrance, the "Note de Yuzu", "Yuzu Man" also seems quite dull. It bears much more resemblance to the probably best-known Yuzu fragrance, "L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme". He shares the top note with this one. After that the caron is much more sweet and fruity and has this slightly soapy touch, while the Issey Miyake remains harsher and fresher in the course and comes across a bit more synthetic, while the "Yuzu Man" is very natural. They are by no means twin fragrances as indicated here.
On the Caron I like the unagitated composition next to its restraint and naturalness. Caron's house perfumer Richard Fraysse allegedly worked on it for several years. The fragrance adapts effortlessly to the skin and I don't feel like I'm perfumed
For me a really beautiful (summer) fragrance for unfortunately only very short self-enjoyment without any showmanship and in the truest sense of the word "balanced" (L'Équilibre, see below).
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