My take on Chandler Burr's S01E04: wishlist worthy
I no longer have a sample of 06130 YUZU ROUGE, but I reviewed it in June 2010. This perfume was selected by Chandler Burr for the Untitled Series as one of his cherished "works of perfumic art". Interestingly enough, the other two self-proclaimed perfume experts, Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez (authors of The Holey [sic] Book), gave this perfume a dismissive review and two stars, indicating what they took to be its mediocrity. I generally do the opposite of what the experts say, but in this case "the experts" disagree vehemently. Fortunately, I reviewed this perfume before being faced with the opposite receptions of the Royal[ties] Coup[le] and The Curator. Here's what I wrote, my untutored opinion of YUZU ROUGE:
Parfums 06130 YUZU ROUGE opens as one of the most succulent fruity florals that I have ever encountered. It's incredibly juicy and rich with no synthetic feeling whatsoever. The combination of the cassis, yuzu, bergamot, lemon verbena, and grapefruit really works here, but I would not call this a "citrus" fragrance, for the dominant fruit is definitely cassis, with rose also detectably present at this stage.
Nor is YUZU ROUGE really an "aromatic" perfume, for it next morphs into a sort of modern chypre--really an entirely different perfume altogether from the opening. This smooth, medium sillage chypre floral is no longer very fruity, as the rose becomes stronger moving toward the drydown. Yet YUZU ROUGE is not a "rose" perfume either. The oakmoss is light, and the spices--cardamom and nutmeg--are even lighter. Rather than asserting themselves, all of these characteristically strong--and sometimes overbearing--notes here merely moderate the rose, while simultaneously imparting a complexity and depth to this composition of medium longevity.
I'd love to own a full bottle of this delightful and original creation!