Flâneur by 27 87 Perfumes

Flâneur 2021

07.01.2022 - 11:37 AM

Very bright, thick and strong

Well this was a huge disappointment.

Summers on Estonian islands smell like juniper and the sea; on the mainland it smells like wet linden, sometimes strawberries too, but mostly linden after the daily rain, translucent, green and melancholic and only slightly sweet. I've been looking for a perfume representation of the smell for years. Thought this might be it, thought the bergamot would keep it light and sparkling, thought the absinthe and vetiver and orris would give an impression of wet soil and various other plants in the Estonian bush. Besides, walking is one of the things I love most. I can walk across five districts and still feel like I barely stepped out the door, and if it's summer, I might imagine that I have turned into a linden tree myself, like the ones on almost every block. But this perfume is a heavy, cloying, sticky mess. The orris note doesn't suggest wet soil, but adds weight to the linden; the absinthe note is dark green and does the same. And the linden (closer to narcissus than linden) is sharp to the point of being metallic. I could pick out the different notes if I concentrated hard enough, but the general impression suggests perfume rather than nature and the open air. I was looking for En Passant with linden instead of lilac; Flaneur has more in common with Poeme or some heavy floral oriental without the complexity of resins and spices. A ton of honey, a ton of metal and in my case, a strong headache.

I tried multiple times and let the sample rest for three weeks in between. Tested on clothing and skin. The best linden is still Heeley's L'Amandiere.
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