Aeon 001 Aeon Perfume 2015

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7.4 / 10 43 Ratings

A limited perfume by Aeon Perfume for women and men, released in 2015. The scent is animal-spicy. Projection and longevity are above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.
Limited Edition

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Main accords

Animal

Spicy

Resinous

Floral

Woody

Fragrance Notes

Resins

Spices

Smoky notes

Vetiver

White blossoms

Perfumer

Antonio Gardoni

Ratings

Scent

7.443 Ratings

Longevity

8.932 Ratings

Sillage

8.133 Ratings

Bottle

8.942 Ratings

Submitted by Bertel, last update on 13.02.2024.

Interesting Facts

333 pieces have been made.

Reviews

4 in-depth fragrance descriptions

02/13/2024

10
Bottle 7
Sillage 9
Longevity 9
Scent

DrB1414
148 Reviews

DrB1414

A Civet holding a Thurible walks in the Temple

Aeon001 is a perfume that I didn't like the first time I tried it. My brain was zooming in so much on the vetiver that I was not seeing the forest for the trees. The more I returned to it, the less focused I was on the vetiver and more on the composition, and came to love it. I often do this with my kryptonite materials, so to speak. It's almost like my brain immediately recognizes the intruder. I'm not a fan of Vetiver, to say the least, but I like it when it's cleverly used in a composition. Here, it is put to great use.

Just to clarify things, I don't feel Aeon001 is a vetiver-based perfume. To me, it is a dry, really dry, Woody-Oriental perfume, loaded with resins and musks, hence exuding a dangerously warm aura. If you are looking for a vetiver-centric perfume, you are going to be disappointed. Two things come to mind when I smell Aeon001. Ancient Egypt, and a Thurible. I think of the Egyptian aesthetic as it is a robust, bold composition that shows harmony and restraint in avoiding excessive embellishments. I picture a Thurible due to the way it behaves on the skin. It has this warm, glowing core of musks, resins, and vetiver, resembling the thurible, and it diffuses around it a smoke cloud that carries the smell of white flowers and spices. It is a perfume that feels compact, anchored yet diffusive, and light, at the same time. Like being suspended in the air. Therefore, the bottle design is brilliant. Besides being one of the most fascinating and beautiful flacons I have ever seen, it resembles the way this composition is constructed and behaves. The vetiver used is quite different from the most I tried. It has a powerful aromatic facet and a perfectly tuned smokiness.

The opening of Aeon001 is aromatic and spicy. A blast of citrusy, dry, and aromatic vetiver, cleverly complemented by tart citruses and spices, with a generous dose of coriander. What you'll notice right away though, is the warmth creeping underneath. The resins and the musks. To me, it smells like civet, with a strong urinous quality. Even though it's buried in the base, it is so powerful that shortly after application, one would notice it. In the heart, there is a diffusive smoke accord that blurs the imagery of white florals. I see Jasmine listed on the ingredient list but I can't recognize it. It feels like watching a floral garden through a thick smokescreen. The final stage of the perfume is my absolute favorite. Dry and smoky veriver, resins, and loads of civet. On my skin, the civet is strong and overtakes the other elements, to the point where I need to mind my surroundings whenever I wear it around people. It exudes a beautifully warm aura around you, heavy yet light, never overbearing.

I believe this project was a successful first attempt from this unknown small brand. I would love to see them create some more in the future, hopefully in collaboration with other creative minds like Antonio Gardoni. As far as his works go, I can't compare Aeon001 to any of his compositions. If anything, it resembles a bit of the modern MAAI in the way it makes use of resins, woods, and smoke, and vintage MAAI in the way it unashamedly uses civet. It walks the lines of his older works like Gardelia, Cologne, and MAAI, as it has that strong vintage flair, zero sweetness or joviality, feeling rather morose and serious.

IG:@memory.of.scents

03/13/2017

Pigfarmer
11 Reviews

Pigfarmer

Very helpful Review 3

my kinda vetiver oriental

Aeon001 goes on with real purpose and undeniable presence. The very first impression is the densest, chewiest smoky vetiver that you’ve likely ever come across, unless you are familiar with Profumum Roma Fumidus. But associations with that peaty-whisky smokebomb are very fleeting, as there is SO MUCH going on here besides. There is a bright top end of juicy bergamot, and an interesting grumble of tuberose lurking in the bottom end, soon joined by ylang, which REALLY brings to mind possibly the finest frag of 2014, MAAI by Bogue Profumo. In fact I had to do a double take at the box to check that this wasn’t a new Bogue. It also got me wondering who was behind this promising smell…..
Within 20 minutes, this dense ball of heavy chypre base, smoky vetiver and bright bergamot really started to open up. That’s when real excitement in perfumery begins: the development stage(s). It became very clear that the vetiver was indeed the star of this show, but what wowed me was the duality of the vetiver on offer here. A remarkable pas-a-deux of light and dark, salty and smoky, earthy and grassy all at the same time. I can say with some confidence that this represents a vetiver lover’s wet dream, carrying all facets whirring over and through the base like a fragrant wraith. Even more stunning is the fact that despite this omnipresent display of all of vetiver’s facets, the note does not dominate the composition, ever. In fact this could be the coolest vetiver for non-vetiver lovers since Coeur de Vetiver Sacré. This stage lasts a solid hour at which point you are ready for the main attraction: floral oriental
Once the vetiver show took a seat, the associations with Maai made a return but only on a very superficial level, the tuberose. It just won’t budge but it is quite sotto voce, adding texture rather than presence. What becomes clear is that this is a multi-chaptered story and the plot development is interesting as hell. Where Maai brings in cumin, musk, and oakmoss to build its lasting phase, Aeon001 has the grace to lighten up with a (as the ad copy promises) spicy but translucent labdanum and a very light but effective touch of petitgrain (I think) which is damn impressive this far into the development. The effect is reminiscent of Duchaufour at his best: hefty weightlessness. This is just effortlessly nice to wear and truly enjoy.

06/21/2016

jtd
484 Reviews

jtd

Top Review 6

333 and counting

Aeon 001 is the first in a new line of limited-release fragrances whose perfumers are not named . Only when all bottles of each perfume are sold, will the perfumer be revealed. Schtick? Yeah, but an interesting play on the historical anonymity of the perfumer.

Until recently perfumery wasn’t acknowledged as art, just an aesthetic product. You never know who created the flavor of your toothpaste, so why should you need to know who made your perfume? From the PR angle it was bad form to imagine that there was anyone except the ‘name’ making the perfume, hence Estée Lauder and Tom Ford being put forward as perfumers. It’s an interesting notion in 2016 NOT to cite the perfumer

(I hope everyone’s first sniff can have some degree of suspense so I won’t name names in the first part of what I’m writing.)

Aeon 001 is a day-long venture. It starts with an aggressive, salty/spicy, floral blast. The topnotes are expansive and animalic. Aeon 001 belongs to the contemporary-classic school of perfumery that emulates the dynamic qualities historical genres, especially the haughty floral chypres of the mid-late 20th century. Think of Liz Moores’s Salome, Antonio Gardoni’s Maai, Bruno Fazzolari’s Seyrig and Au Delà and you’ll be in the ballpark. There is even a similarity to Angelo Pregoni’s spicy, woody twist on the Italian herbal apothecary style. These perfumes are not ‘neo-chypres’ like 31 Rue Cambon, l’Après Midi d’Une Faune or Ylang 49 that seek to replicate the chypre without buckets of oakmoss. 001, like Salome in particular, studies the floral chypre not to copy it, but to learn from the dynamics that made it so effective. As the topnotes fade 001 takes a 90 degree turn away from florals and into a more resinous range. Vetiver and dry, smoky wood notes underline the heartnotes and give a cool composure that tell you that you’ve landed in the basenotes.

You haven’t.

001 turns again, this time away from the smoked woods of the heartnotes. It takes a long, gorgeous stroll into a buttery, nutty amber base that just drips off your skin. There’s nowhere near the sillage of the opening, but when you bring your nose to your skin, the base is surprisingly even richer than the topnotes.

The concept-driven launch, the unsentimental number-name, the highly stylized, mod bottle half lead me to expect a minimalist perfume. The perfume bottle suggests an extra, invisible layer between you and the perfume, as if the perfume is on the other side of a vacuum from you. Scent, like sound doens’t travel in a vacuum, so the fraction of an inch between you and the test-tube of perfume might as well be miles.

I’m enormously suspicious of schtick, but 001 makes me take a less defensive stance. The perfume wasn’t what I had lead myself to expect and I had a sensationally genie-in-a-bottle rush with the first spritz. All credit to the perfume producer for creating that moment of child-like magic and excitement. It was the highlight of my week and I’ve spent the past few days in discussion with a couple of friends who also bought 001. We’re spread out, each about 8 timezones separate from the others, but 001 has brought us together. Kumbaya, motherfuckers.

(Stop reading here if you don’t want to know my guess of the perfumer.)

The topnotes of the perfume have a briny floral quality that made me think instantly: Antonio Gardoni! On my first inhalation I surmised it was Gardoni, but I laughed when I exhaled. I laughed because the componentry of 001’s topnotes has some similarity to his other work, notably to Maai’s white flowers, yet even at one sniff, I could tell that the form was being twisted and expectation was being fucked with.

Cologne Reloaded, Maai and O/E are a three-part discussion. They explore similar concepts and share some materials, but each has a different premise and looks to a different historical form. Cologne Reloaded, as the name implies, is an Eau de Cologne and then some. Based on reanimating of found historical materials, it is both theoretical and tough. Maai is the reincarnation of the feral chypre, a classically feminine form and O/E is dissection of a similarly gendered form, the masculine fougère.

Likely related to his work in architecture, Gardoni is particularly adept in manipulating motifs and getting at an idea from a number of different angles. If 001 is in fact his, it is a smart departure from his other work. The allusion to previous ideas comes up front, right out of the bottle. But over hours, over days, the initial familiarity walks you into new territory. I could be wrong, but I’m sticking with my guess, which, by the by, I had heard even before I tried 001. Of course I’d also seen guesses of Antoine Lie and Bertrand Buchaufor. Secrets in the perfume community (true or false, I suppose) don’t last long.

001 asks you to play a game. It should provide you with a challenge and should make you work for your conviction. It should satisfy. Aeon does all that and is a great start to the Aeon line.

02/12/2016

9
Bottle 8
Sillage 8
Longevity 7.5
Scent

AromaX
33 Reviews

AromaX

Very helpful Review 3

Carnal vetiver

A whiff of citrus fruits in the style of Eau Sauvage and a phantom of slightly soapy salty flowers above the dramatic performance of dark carnal vetiver. It smells quite dirty and smoky with a sweaty accent of labdanum and a nuance of cumin-like flesh pierced by the metallic sharpness of clove. A bit shocking and definitely daring. Sexy? Well, definitely if body odors is what turns you on. But one should pay a special attention to hers or his personal care when wearing this scent. To be immaculately dressed and groomed is a must as otherwise there is a chance to be mistaken for a vagrant or a punk.

This side of Aeon 001 reminds me of a dirty punk concept smell realized in Dreckig bleiben by Mark Buxton.

But there is also a Happy End in the story of Aeon 001. When settled down on the skin it can become a warm and cosy vetiver with a sexy nuance of flesh. The smell of someone you love. You know those moments when you let your head to rest on her or his chest to get a whiff of that seducing aroma.