Aeon 001 2015

Aeon 001 by Aeon Perfume
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7.2 / 1039 Ratings
Aeon 001 is a limited perfume by Aeon Perfume for women and men and was released in 2015. The scent is animal-spicy. Projection and longevity are above-average. The production was apparently discontinued. Limited Edition
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Perfumer

Antonio Gardoni

Fragrance Notes

Vetiver, White blossoms, Smoky notes, Spices, Resins

Ratings

Scent

7.239 Ratings

Longevity

8.929 Ratings

Sillage

8.230 Ratings

Bottle

9.239 Ratings
Submitted by Bertel, last update on 22.11.2020.

Interesting Facts

333 pieces have been made.
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Reviews

Pigfarmer

11 Reviews
Pigfarmer
Pigfarmer
Very helpful Review    3  
my kinda vetiver oriental
Aeon001 goes on with real purpose and undeniable presence. The very first impression is the densest, chewiest smoky vetiver that you’ve likely ever come across, unless you are familiar with Profumum Roma Fumidus. But associations with that peaty-whisky smokebomb are very fleeting, as there is SO MUCH going on here besides. There is a bright top end of juicy bergamot, and an interesting grumble of tuberose lurking in the bottom end, soon joined by ylang, which REALLY brings to mind possibly the finest frag of 2014, MAAI by Bogue Profumo. In fact I had to do a double take at the box to check that this wasn’t a new Bogue. It also got me wondering who was behind this promising smell…..
Within 20 minutes, this dense ball of heavy chypre base, smoky vetiver and bright bergamot really started to open up. That’s when real excitement in perfumery begins: the development stage(s). It became very clear that the vetiver was indeed the star of this show, but what wowed me was the duality of the vetiver on offer here. A remarkable pas-a-deux of light and dark, salty and smoky, earthy and grassy all at the same time. I can say with some confidence that this represents a vetiver lover’s wet dream, carrying all facets whirring over and through the base like a fragrant wraith. Even more stunning is the fact that despite this omnipresent display of all of vetiver’s facets, the note does not dominate the composition, ever. In fact this could be the coolest vetiver for non-vetiver lovers since Coeur de Vetiver Sacré. This stage lasts a solid hour at which point you are ready for the main attraction: floral oriental
Once the vetiver show took a seat, the associations with Maai made a return but only on a very superficial level, the tuberose. It just won’t budge but it is quite sotto voce, adding texture rather than presence. What becomes clear is that this is a multi-chaptered story and the plot development is interesting as hell. Where Maai brings in cumin, musk, and oakmoss to build its lasting phase, Aeon001 has the grace to lighten up with a (as the ad copy promises) spicy but translucent labdanum and a very light but effective touch of petitgrain (I think) which is damn impressive this far into the development. The effect is reminiscent of Duchaufour at his best: hefty weightlessness. This is just effortlessly nice to wear and truly enjoy.
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Top Review    6  
333 and counting
Aeon 001 is the first in a new line of limited-release fragrances whose perfumers are not named . Only when all bottles of each perfume are sold, will the perfumer be revealed. Schtick? Yeah, but an interesting play on the historical anonymity of the perfumer.

Until recently perfumery wasn’t acknowledged as art, just an aesthetic product. You never know who created the flavor of your toothpaste, so why should you need to know who made your perfume? From the PR angle it was bad form to imagine that there was anyone except the ‘name’ making the perfume, hence Estée Lauder and Tom Ford being put forward as perfumers. It’s an interesting notion in 2016 NOT to cite the perfumer

(I hope everyone’s first sniff can have some degree of suspense so I won’t name names in the first part of what I’m writing.)

Aeon 001 is a day-long venture. It starts with an aggressive, salty/spicy, floral blast. The topnotes are expansive and animalic. Aeon 001 belongs to the contemporary-classic school of perfumery that emulates the dynamic qualities historical genres, especially the haughty floral chypres of the mid-late 20th century. Think of Liz Moores’s Salome, Antonio Gardoni’s Maai, Bruno Fazzolari’s Seyrig and Au Delà and you’ll be in the ballpark. There is even a similarity to Angelo Pregoni’s spicy, woody twist on the Italian herbal apothecary style. These perfumes are not ‘neo-chypres’ like 31 Rue Cambon, l’Après Midi d’Une Faune or Ylang 49 that seek to replicate the chypre without buckets of oakmoss. 001, like Salome in particular, studies the floral chypre not to copy it, but to learn from the dynamics that made it so effective. As the topnotes fade 001 takes a 90 degree turn away from florals and into a more resinous range. Vetiver and dry, smoky wood notes underline the heartnotes and give a cool composure that tell you that you’ve landed in the basenotes.

You haven’t.

001 turns again, this time away from the smoked woods of the heartnotes. It takes a long, gorgeous stroll into a buttery, nutty amber base that just drips off your skin. There’s nowhere near the sillage of the opening, but when you bring your nose to your skin, the base is surprisingly even richer than the topnotes.

The concept-driven launch, the unsentimental number-name, the highly stylized, mod bottle half lead me to expect a minimalist perfume. The perfume bottle suggests an extra, invisible layer between you and the perfume, as if the perfume is on the other side of a vacuum from you. Scent, like sound doens’t travel in a vacuum, so the fraction of an inch between you and the test-tube of perfume might as well be miles.

I’m enormously suspicious of schtick, but 001 makes me take a less defensive stance. The perfume wasn’t what I had lead myself to expect and I had a sensationally genie-in-a-bottle rush with the first spritz. All credit to the perfume producer for creating that moment of child-like magic and excitement. It was the highlight of my week and I’ve spent the past few days in discussion with a couple of friends who also bought 001. We’re spread out, each about 8 timezones separate from the others, but 001 has brought us together. Kumbaya, motherfuckers.

(Stop reading here if you don’t want to know my guess of the perfumer.)

The topnotes of the perfume have a briny floral quality that made me think instantly: Antonio Gardoni! On my first inhalation I surmised it was Gardoni, but I laughed when I exhaled. I laughed because the componentry of 001’s topnotes has some similarity to his other work, notably to Maai’s white flowers, yet even at one sniff, I could tell that the form was being twisted and expectation was being fucked with.

Cologne Reloaded, Maai and O/E are a three-part discussion. They explore similar concepts and share some materials, but each has a different premise and looks to a different historical form. Cologne Reloaded, as the name implies, is an Eau de Cologne and then some. Based on reanimating of found historical materials, it is both theoretical and tough. Maai is the reincarnation of the feral chypre, a classically feminine form and O/E is dissection of a similarly gendered form, the masculine fougère.

Likely related to his work in architecture, Gardoni is particularly adept in manipulating motifs and getting at an idea from a number of different angles. If 001 is in fact his, it is a smart departure from his other work. The allusion to previous ideas comes up front, right out of the bottle. But over hours, over days, the initial familiarity walks you into new territory. I could be wrong, but I’m sticking with my guess, which, by the by, I had heard even before I tried 001. Of course I’d also seen guesses of Antoine Lie and Bertrand Buchaufor. Secrets in the perfume community (true or false, I suppose) don’t last long.

001 asks you to play a game. It should provide you with a challenge and should make you work for your conviction. It should satisfy. Aeon does all that and is a great start to the Aeon line.
7.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle
AromaX

31 Reviews
AromaX
AromaX
Very helpful Review    3  
Carnal vetiver
A whiff of citrus fruits in the style of Eau Sauvage and a phantom of slightly soapy salty flowers above the dramatic performance of dark carnal vetiver. It smells quite dirty and smoky with a sweaty accent of labdanum and a nuance of cumin-like flesh pierced by the metallic sharpness of clove. A bit shocking and definitely daring. Sexy? Well, definitely if body odors is what turns you on. But one should pay a special attention to hers or his personal care when wearing this scent. To be immaculately dressed and groomed is a must as otherwise there is a chance to be mistaken for a vagrant or a punk.

This side of Aeon 001 reminds me of a dirty punk concept smell realized in Dreckig bleiben by Mark Buxton.

But there is also a Happy End in the story of Aeon 001. When settled down on the skin it can become a warm and cosy vetiver with a sexy nuance of flesh. The smell of someone you love. You know those moments when you let your head to rest on her or his chest to get a whiff of that seducing aroma.

Statements

AromaXAromaX 5 years ago
7.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle
A dirty smoky vetiver with sexy sweaty accents of flesh to either get an intimate seductive moment or to be mistaken for a dirty punk.

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