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Notes10/16/2020
Vrabec
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Vrabec
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On the anniversary: Dechafour's handwriting
Once you are registered on Parfumo, you will inevitably hear about some perfumes. Anniversary is one of those. I got to know the fragrance - DNA through a Dupe by Rasasi, which seemed rather overloaded, so I lost my interest without ever having smelled it. I only became curious again when I took a closer look at Bertrand Duchafour, of whom I know several works and who I consider to be the greatest perfume I know. Duchafour certainly has two sides; firstly, the insignificance of many designs, which is certainly due to the unusually high-frequency output for a niche market, and secondly, the genius and significance of some of the few masterpieces. These few have one thing in common, they are highly emotional, difficult to grasp in their entirety, because they are loaded with expressive and strong aromas, at the same time never slain, never intrusive.
Jubilation XXV fits exactly in this direction. Though clearly oriental in nature, but well dosed in the Duchafour manner, it manages to create an unmistakable fragrance DNA adapted to the European market. This is what the house of Amouage stands for, in a way, in connection with superior quality. A perfect choice of perfumer to create the 25th anniversary fragrance.
I will describe the fragrance itself only briefly, others before me have done so extensively Duchafour and better. As in other perfumes by Duchafour, a natural, unsweet fruit is placed in the center of attention and ensnares by tart, strong players without being covered or put in the shade.
What Timbuktu's mango and the Dzongkha's lychee is, the blackberry is to Jubi. This is lost in perfect symbiosis with gently purring puma cage animalism, as well as mild incense, not of the sacred variety, rather cultivated, freed from any scratchy disturbing symptoms. This is also known from the two perfumes mentioned above. The blackberry is in the top note, there still supported by the orange clearly more fruity, most present, but remains the course of the noticeable. Despite resins and a certain bite, Jubilation never looks grubby, dirty or sweaty. A flowery cleanliness is always maintained, which in no way contradicts the main components. This is what I count especially to the heart notes given.
In the base, leather, resin and oud are surprisingly mild, plus a musk component that smells so soft that even I, as a musk hater, like it.
So what's that smell like? Animalistic but well-groomed. Manly but not impulsive.
Woody, dark but not heavy.
The Sillage is quite reserved, only a hint of the fragrance remains, an idea of the individual notes, a teaser that makes you want more.
For an oriental fragrance, he radiates quite little, you may like it or not, but it only speaks for Duchafour's handwriting, his perfumes hardly ever come to the fore in a boorish way.
I would recommend it for autumn and winter, at any time of day or night, but not necessarily for going out. I wouldn't classify him in the seductive direction.
You can certainly call Jubilation XXV a career highlight. For a house like Amouage to choose you to create a fragrance for its 25th anniversary, and to have it become so popular - that's a knighthood beyond compare. In my opinion, it wasn't his greatest, but it was the most prestigious If you like this perfume, I strongly recommend to try other fragrances by Bertrand Dechafour
Jubilation XXV fits exactly in this direction. Though clearly oriental in nature, but well dosed in the Duchafour manner, it manages to create an unmistakable fragrance DNA adapted to the European market. This is what the house of Amouage stands for, in a way, in connection with superior quality. A perfect choice of perfumer to create the 25th anniversary fragrance.
I will describe the fragrance itself only briefly, others before me have done so extensively Duchafour and better. As in other perfumes by Duchafour, a natural, unsweet fruit is placed in the center of attention and ensnares by tart, strong players without being covered or put in the shade.
What Timbuktu's mango and the Dzongkha's lychee is, the blackberry is to Jubi. This is lost in perfect symbiosis with gently purring puma cage animalism, as well as mild incense, not of the sacred variety, rather cultivated, freed from any scratchy disturbing symptoms. This is also known from the two perfumes mentioned above. The blackberry is in the top note, there still supported by the orange clearly more fruity, most present, but remains the course of the noticeable. Despite resins and a certain bite, Jubilation never looks grubby, dirty or sweaty. A flowery cleanliness is always maintained, which in no way contradicts the main components. This is what I count especially to the heart notes given.
In the base, leather, resin and oud are surprisingly mild, plus a musk component that smells so soft that even I, as a musk hater, like it.
So what's that smell like? Animalistic but well-groomed. Manly but not impulsive.
Woody, dark but not heavy.
The Sillage is quite reserved, only a hint of the fragrance remains, an idea of the individual notes, a teaser that makes you want more.
For an oriental fragrance, he radiates quite little, you may like it or not, but it only speaks for Duchafour's handwriting, his perfumes hardly ever come to the fore in a boorish way.
I would recommend it for autumn and winter, at any time of day or night, but not necessarily for going out. I wouldn't classify him in the seductive direction.
You can certainly call Jubilation XXV a career highlight. For a house like Amouage to choose you to create a fragrance for its 25th anniversary, and to have it become so popular - that's a knighthood beyond compare. In my opinion, it wasn't his greatest, but it was the most prestigious If you like this perfume, I strongly recommend to try other fragrances by Bertrand Dechafour
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