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A dozen roses for the man (3/12)
As a newcomer here, I'm going to try my hand at a series of comments. This is the third part.
The motivation, the idea and the criteria
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scent as unisex fragrance, I simply had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke of Penhaligon, I was just in London at the idea)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)
Fragrance No. 3 is: Lyric Man by Amouage
(previously: (1) Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, (2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract by Atkinsons)
The house, the perfumer and the shopping
First of all: I think the history of the perfume house is fantastic.
Amouage is the Chanel of the Orient - and something like a state perfume of Oman. A bottle full of national pride (so in an article in the world from 2008). Amouage was founded in 1983 by His Majesty the Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said in Maskat. The foundation (as I believe the Royal Opera House Muscat, founded in 2011) stands for the modernization, globalization and opening of Oman to the West. The Sultan commissioned the perfumer Guy Robert, who had already worked for houses such as Hermès, Dior and Gucci, to create a new fragrance. For a while, Guy Robert's Amouage Gold fragrance was the world's most expensive perfume. The name Amouage is a word creation from the French "Amour" and the Arabic word "amwaj", which means "wave". Amouage thus means in a broader sense "the waves of emotions" and bears the subtitle "The Gift of Kings" because the Sultan presents it to his state guests as a gift. Parfumeur Daniel Visentin began his training in 1976. In addition to Lyric Man, he also co-developed Myths Man for Amouage and is one of the creative heads of the M.INT label founded in 2012. I broke new ground with the purchase of Lyric Man and bought it here in the Souk as bottling. So my special thanks go to Tesuo. Has worked great and super fast - Thank you!
The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience
For Lyric Man, the history and vision of Amouage is divided into two halves according to gender. Not only do the two fragrances have numerous scents in common, they also represent the seamless link between traditional French perfumery and Eastern aesthetics. In addition, it becomes clear that the "male rose" has been worn by men from the Middle East for much longer (perhaps since the time when roses became a precious commodity on the trade routes centuries ago). Lyric Man starts fresh, citric, penetrating. The bergamot is tangy, fresh and bitter (not as usual sometimes slightly sweet-fruity) and is reinforced by the lime. Already very fast the for me overwhelming wonderful pure rose unfolds. The rose is refined by three components: "Oriental", by the spices nutmeg and saffron, "green" by the galbanum (which already played a corresponding role at 24 Old Bond Street) and "fresh-fruity" by the orange blossoms and the ginger. I could not claim that I can "smell" every single component, but the three described (basic) components are unmistakable. The saffron comes out the strongest for me. The spice is extracted from the crocus species of the same name, namely from the pistil threads of the flowers. Saffron exudes an intense, sweet-spicy aroma with slightly bitter notes. It is one of the most precious spices in the world. As the fragrance progresses, the angelica note unfolds. Angelica is obtained from the dried roots of angelica (also angelica). According to a legend, the name Angelica goes back to the archangel Gabriel, who, when the plague raged in Europe, appeared in the dreams of many people and recommended Angelica to them for healing. Allegedly, Angelica was chewed by the people so that they wouldn't get infected. In some cultures the oil is also called "Holy Spirit Oil" or "Oil of Angels". In fact, it was one of the few herbs that we exported to the Orient in the Middle Ages (usually the other way round). Angelica is characterised by a musk-like, herbaceous peppery and aromatic-balsamic smell. In my opinion, it also meant something of today (very positive). Sandalwood and vanilla then form the basis. Here however with the resinous incense (see also with 24 Old Bond Street) and the jaw a masculine chord is supplemented. That's round, but still angular.
The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application
After the loud fresh "white" aspects, the carrier remains with a calm warm, "dark red" part of the rose. This way there are some special effects whose volume decreases so that the focus never deviates from this "rose king". The fragrance needs some self-confidence because the rose is intense, but the fragrance is never intrusive. Lyric Man is spicier than Lumière Noire pour Homme, but has significantly more rose than 24 Old Bond Street. This looks very "pure" and has a good Sillage and durability. My favorite "so far".
(1) Lumière Noire pour Homme - The noble softie
(2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract - The elegant Brite
(3) Lyric Man - The "pure" Rose