Portrayal Man (2019)

Portrayal Man by Amouage
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Portrayal Man is a new perfume by Amouage for men and was released in 2019. The scent is woody-green. The longevity is above-average.

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Perfumer

Pierre Negrin

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesViolet leaf
Heart Notes Heart NotesVetiver
Base Notes Base NotesPrickly cedar

Ratings

Scent

7.5 (45 Ratings)

Longevity

8.3 (42 Ratings)

Sillage

7.6 (43 Ratings)

Bottle

9.0 (54 Ratings)
Submitted by Amourage, last update on 06.08.2019
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Reviews

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Profumo
Greatly helpful Review    28
Roaring Twenties? Not a trace.
Who appreciates the on the one hand herb-floral, on the other hand green-grassy violet leaf, will be best served with 'Portrayal Man'. It is absolutely in the center of the fragrance. Vetiver reinforces the fresh and green aspects, while juniper contributes dry spice and woody, as well as leathery nuances determine the base of 'Portrayal Man'.

The fragrance is reminiscent of violet leaf-centered scents such as Geoffrey Beene's 'Grey Flannel' (minus the radiant freshness), Dior's 'Fahrenheit' (minus the petroleum note) and Guerlain's unfortunately discontinued 'Arsène Lupin' (minus the guerlinade), but without achieving their strength of character and sophistication.
Portrayal Man' is a rather linear fragrance that doesn't develop much during the course of the process
Christopher Chong reports that the fragrance can be read as an olfactory portrait of the 1920s, inspired by a time of dramatic social change and people who rebelled against the cultural restrictions of their time. The fragrance is a study about the birth of a new age and the freedoms that came with it.
Well, I'd say: typical marketing swirl that doesn't find any equivalent in the fragrance at all.
Because 'Portrayal Man' really doesn't convey something rebellious, revolutionary, but rather something static, stiff - no 'roaring twenties', rather English Tea-Time-Biedermeier.

Mr. Chong's words also suggest fragrances like Piguets 'Bandit', Molinard's 'Habanita', or Chanel's 'Bois des Îles' or 'Cuir de Russie' - fragrances that reflect hedonism and rebellion against a traditional gender image rather than this new fragrance from Amouage. Even though there is no denying a certain dandyiness: the scent of the violet or violet leaf is also well suited to it: floral-elegant, fresh and green, not at all sweet or even indolent. Oscar Wilde or Marcel Proust might have been the appropriate carriers for a violet soliflor, but they were typical turn-of-the-century plants and not representatives of the twenties.

But sei´s drum.

Despite the cross linking, 'Portrayal Man' is not bad at all. But hardly any more. It is neither modern nor innovative, and on top of that it has hardly any refinement. He doesn't surprise with daring contrasts and manages completely without inner tension - in short, somehow a bore, but not a bad smelling one. It's something...
Only I could have imagined such a fragrance in the catalogue of Penhaligon´s rather than in that of Amouage. I still think of the old Amouage fragrances of oriental opulence: 'Gold', 'Dia' and 'Jubilation'. But already the last creations of the house, 'Imitation', 'Figment' or 'Bracken' had no connection at all with the original scent DNA.
No matter, the house Amouage is just broader, wants to be carried worldwide equally and is just as worldwide a synonym for fragrant luxury. And luxury doesn't always have to be glamorous or even shrill. No, it's also more restrained, with British understatement, so to speak, with 'Portrayal Man' for example.

Durability and radiation (I avoid the word 'Sillage' at all costs, because it always reminds me of silage: stinking silage in agriculture) are typical of Amouage and absolutely flawless.

Conclusion: 'Portrayal Man' should have been a bit more exciting, more courageous, more glamorous, corresponding to the 'dance on the volcano' of the twenties. Here, however, stiff, somewhat old-fashioned elegance prevails.

Quite nice, but not anymore.
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