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Jazzbob
Top Review
20
What is the scent of post-blooming Cereus?
Many will now wonder what this is at all. It is a genus of cacti in which the sweet, fruity-smelling flowers only open at night, as they are pollinated by bats (in contrast to other Cereen species, which rely on birds during the day). Perfumer Jérôme Di Marino 'used' this note in Lunar Vetiver, anyway, and thus probably created the template for the moon (luna) and vetiver connection. Sounds like a great story.
That's exactly what it is above all: something that requires our imagination. Fragrance notes are, after all, in most cases, what the creator / the creator should trigger with us as a smell perception. In the first place, it doesn't matter whether it's the 'real' natural resource, a substance synthesized in a lab, or something in between. It shows how closely marketing and perfumes are linked, how stories are sold to fragrances. On the other hand, yes, we do indeed have our personal sensations and anecdotes associated with them.
Lunar Vetiver does not make me think of moonlight, but I can understand that Di Marino was inspired by the scent of Cereus, because I was quite surprised at the first test, how fruity-floral the fragrance comes across. However, my perception has changed with subsequent times and I would also say that my sample smells minimally fruitier than my bottle - which could be due to maceration. That bright fruitiness is still present in conjunction with just a little citrusiness, but the other facets dominate for me. At the beginning, I can definitely recognize the two notes of allspice and pepper, which gives the fragrance a certain spiciness. The eponymous vetiver (why not stated as a fragrance note here?) shows both its slightly grassy-green and woody side, and is complemented by a component that I would most likely describe as very dry cedar. This is often problematic for me as I actually almost always perceive it as pungent and I guess I'm hypersensitive to it - in many fragrances it comes across as penetrating and lingering - but in Lunar Vetiver it complements the rest of the notes well and is seemingly low dosed. I can't find the sweetly warm notes of tonka bean and vanilla and tobacco flower here, though, because the scent remains rather linearly green, woody, and dry.
What I appreciate about Lunar Vetiver is the good mix of light and darker notes, which do not make too extreme a contrast, but also do not seem boring. Vetiver has a priori already something mature in itself, but in this case, the direction is more modern and brighter than many other representatives, which tend either in a more earthy direction, or are accompanied by old-fashioned soapy / powdery nuances. Perhaps it is precisely this slightly radiant quality that could be likened to that of moonlight.
For me, Lunar Vetiver is a good all-season all-rounder, which should be dosed sparingly due to its persistence and strength (with me, for example, no more than 2-3 sprays at work). Incidentally, the bottle is not only solid and features a metal cap and sprayer, but fortunately allows you to see the fill level by holding it in front of a light source. If you're now in the mood for a test, let me add that the scent might seem a bit harsh to some. I quite like it when one still has a few rough edges.
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