Per Fumum: Ambar 2018

Per Fumum: Ambar by Annette Neuffer
Bottle Design Annette Neuffer
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Per Fumum: Ambar is a popular perfume by Annette Neuffer for women and men and was released in 2018. The scent is spicy-smoky. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.
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Perfumer

Annette Neuffer

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesCardamom, Ginger, Bitter orange, Bergamot
Heart Notes Heart NotesTobacco absolute, Rose, Iris
Base Notes Base NotesFossilized amber, Ambergris, Vietnamese oud, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli

Ratings

Scent

8.8 (43 Ratings)

Longevity

8.2 (37 Ratings)

Sillage

7.6 (37 Ratings)

Bottle

8.8 (34 Ratings)
Submitted by Centifolia, last update on 04.11.2020.
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Reviews

9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
Meggi
Translated Show originalShow translation
Meggi
Meggi
Top Review    44  
Chamber music soundtrack
Anton Bruckner's symphonies sound like the soundtrack to US foreign policy over long stretches. Even when there is a conductor at the desk whose urge for self-portrayal may be below average, as I suspect from the old Günter Wand, for example. He had actually been "through" his career when he started a second (world) career in the early 80s at an advanced age, which lasted another 20 years and which began with much acclaimed Bruckner recordings.

Bruckner lets the strings roll out a huge carpet that offers plenty of room for the booming paradise of the brass players. The recordings of Sergiu Celibidache show just how wonderfully transparent and crystal clear the Austrian's symphonies can sound. Born in Romania, he was a rehearsal-obsessed and uncompromising orchestral educator of the old school, who rendered outstanding services to young musicians, not least - as successor to Leonard Bernstein - to the youth orchestra of the Schleswig-Holstein Musik Festival. I remember reports of young musicians who had both experienced conductors and sketched the difference as follows: "Bernstein just looks at you and you play like never before in your life". The work with Celibidache, on the other hand, is hard and tedious, but of noticeable sustainability.

The Maestro had always abhorred the record, and only considered the performance to be the right setting. Nevertheless, some things have found their way into shelves and archives, some of them not quite legally. The following passage from Bruckner's 6th Symphony shows what I mean by transparency and clarity within Bruckner's opulence: www.youtube.com/watch?v - ab 15:10 min.

At first I had hesitated to use the term "crystal clarity", because now, at the bridge to fragrance, it will inevitably evoke a completely false association with bright coldness - and of bright coldness is 'Per Fumum: Ambar' certainly not, rather exactly the opposite. I just want to point out that Mrs. Neuffer is demonstrating to us once again today how tender and fine aromas can play around with each other, which otherwise often indulge in late romantic opulence (against which I, by the way, have nothing per se).

While I still smell spice tea with a dash of liqueur while sniffing at the tester and think of cough drops immediately after spraying on, the rumbling with which the Neuffer fragrances like to open is not long in coming: Wächsern-rau and scratchy at the threshold to the ham-like it starts, quickly already provided with discreet fruity sweetness. Fruity rose, maybe. Also candied orange. A pinch of sharpness makes ginger plausible.

Cautiously a latent animalism spreads, which I would not have recognized as amber without knowledge of the name, but it must be. It remains enigmatic, creamy and gently fertilized. Coumarin prickles, very gentle, undoubtedly from tobacco absolute. Other aspects of the tobacco are also present: tarry, spicy-bitter, which remind me of Malbrum's "Bengal Tiger" - and of the exquisite "Maroquin" from the same house. In addition discreet medical, only minimally cheesy-cow stable, rather woody Oud, everything is framed by sugary glassy Amber; Copal I believe immediately.

And as is so often the case with Neuffer fragrances, all these ingredients can be identified quite well. I have often suspected that the aromatic richness of natural fragrances allows a limitation to a comparatively small number of ingredients and that therefore the gain in transparency - or even clarity - may stir without the result becoming fragile and thin, as I unfortunately feel with some Ellena for example.

Starting later in the morning, 'Ambar' shows his relationship to another sibling: Today it is a little less sweet and warm than with 'Ambra Luminosa', here it is creamier, whiter, the resinous part of the resin is a swab. Nevertheless, 'Ambar' also radiates a honey-sweet-smoky warmth, even with a delicate touch of Christmas baking. Somewhat "labdanum-liköriger" and more dusty in the process (the perfumer herself writes it) he is. Apartes counterpart is the continuing contribution of bitter tobaccos.

In general, the same is true as with many Neuffers: The scents do not offer a clear sequence in the sense of a separation, but rather shift their weight shares in the course of the day, a contrapuntal coexistence of diverse, more or less equal voices.

Conclusion: Ambra? I perceive 'Ambar' primarily as an Amber Oud scent. I confess that I - I express myself cautiously - smell almost nothing that I had previously associated with Ambra. Only a creamy basic mood, which runs practically through the entire course and which might be due to the probably (for obvious reason) sparingly used preciousness. I would probably not have been able to make out the ambergris on my own.

Nevertheless, I like 'Ambar' very much, even though it can't knock my Neuffer favourite 'Maroquin' off its pedestal.
31 Replies
9
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
SchatzSucher
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SchatzSucher
SchatzSucher
Top Review    33  
The warm glow in the dark
I once heard someone say: Night is actually the same as day, only there is not so much light. And somehow that somebody was right, even if it was only said with a wink This can almost be transferred to this fragrance, because here, light and darkness are played with very skilfully.

Whoever knows me a little bit here also knows that I have some distinct aversions to scents. Especially when there is too much of certain scent components, when it is overloaded and the scent even goes in the direction of a penetrant monster So I almost scream when a scent seems too strictly animalistic, when it smells like a stable or a complete wild animal park, or when I turn up my nose at too much leather, I always have the association of a worn out bag. Oud is also often a red cloth for me, if it smells of dung or disinfectant, I am lost in a cloud of dust on the horizon These are of course only my personal feelings. And then, however, one realizes from time to time, oh there are exceptions! No, but something like that. It is worthwhile to look beyond one's own nose. And what do I care about the stuff from the day before yesterday?
Usually I also take my time to comment on scents and you can get into the nettles if you hit a wrong nerve or if you didn't get to know a scent well enough and present wrong facts.

But here too I make an exception, because this fragrance told me a lot and I listened.
I recently came into possession of a sample of Frau Neuffer's latest creation.
The name already told me something through mentions here, but the fragrances were completely unknown to me except for one, which I also tested recently and which I unfortunately did not like.
So I curiously tried Per Fumum: Ambar and what can I say: I think he is great! It combines some fragrance components, which I actually don't like at all, in a most appealing way. I recognize depth, I recognize darkness, I recognize a lot of herb, I recognize the living being that gives the fragrance a soul, I recognize warmth and a radiance that appeals to me from the deepest inside.
When I explore the component on which Ambar is built, it is that animal scent component that seems most accessible to me. The ambergris, which also lends classic chypre fragrances their warm and golden heart, the animal component, which seems to me to be the most sympathetic and does not deter me in fragrances as much as other animal substances.

Ambar opens herbsweet and warm spicy, here it still looks quite bright at the beginning, but the dark direction is already well visible.
Smoky notes of tobacco are quickly added to ensure that the scent does not become too sweet and it becomes increasingly darker. Flowery notes I can hardly smell out, that's good too, I think that would have been a bit disturbing. And here only the harsh extracts have been used, because the anyway quite light sweetness is no longer present.
Associations of a warming campfire late at night by the sea come up in me. Yes, a light sea breeze is also floating along, which intensifies this breath of sea a little bit Towards the base, ambergris, patchouli, a hint of oud and a dash of labdanum underline the dark, tart but warming character. The burning wood is of noble nature and represents a fixed point in the dark environment.

But Ambar doesn't really seem sinister to me. And the scent is not of a loud nature, it is present, it is perceived but it does not strike, it is not a primordial force He is for me the warm glow that lights up a dark night. The scent is harsh and smoky, but it is not harsh and biting, but wraps up protectively. The creature in his soul has a warm heart and softens the fragrance He holds on to me for about 8 hours until he gently slips back into the dark.

For me personally, Per Fumum: Ambar is a really successful fragrance, which surprises me in the most pleasant way and is really very wearable. For me it fits best to very special occasions in the evening and in this cold and rather uncomfortable season it shows to advantage
My big thanks go to dear 0815abc, who made it possible for me to get to know and appreciate this jewel!
22 Replies
10
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
10
Bottle
Can777

6 Reviews
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Can777
Can777
Top Review    50  
Light refraction
Ambra is the highest and noblest form of animal essences. In the language of perfumers, she is considered female. It is extremely sensual, erotic and profoundly abysmal. A fragrance that penetrates deep into everyone's soul and spreads there like the sea itself from which it came. It pulls you down into the darkness, where there is no more light and no more sound to hear. Annette Neuffer has taken care of this royal class of animal notes. To be more precise, the ambergris.

Per Fumum: Ambar
Ambar begins spicy and delicately sweet by cardamom. Light citric chords resonate. Some bitter orange and a slightly spicy ginger bring some light to the beginning. The top note still looks like a friendly smile, but this soon comes along. It fades and becomes more serious and gives an incredibly beautiful tobacco note room to unfold. Not too dry, but rather humid-warm in the aura. It's like rubbing the leaves between your hands. This humid and spicy-warm scent runs through the perfume like a warm current in the sea until you are drawn deep into the most sensual depths of the resins. Soft and creamy ambergris combines with finest smoked oud and dry notes of amber. Cistus rose with its balsamic scent looks like a network of corals that covers everything and holds it together. Chords of earthy vetiver and patchouli darken it even more and rob it of the last bit of light. Per Fumum: Ambar has become the darkest, most sensual and deepest silence. The erotic melancholy of darkness!

Conclusion
Once I asked Annette Neuffer what would happen if she surrendered to the darkness and created a scent that showed her dark side? A perfume that is associated with deepest animal desire and most beautiful erotic darkness. A perfume that's so different from any previous perfume that was. A perfume that embodies the darkest, most sensual eroticism. What would happen if she did?

This happened... she did it! And she did it the way only she could. She refracted the light until it turned into a black diamond. A diamond that has become so dark that it needs no light to shine because it can do it from within. Per Fumum: Ambar is the deepest Abyss in Annette Neuffer's entire collection. A sensual beauty of darkness. And if I didn't know better, I would say Per Fumum: Ambar is made for me. But maybe he is? Who knows!

Unique!
35 Replies

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