05/23/2021
TheBark
14 Reviews
TheBark
4
Smooth, top notch blend (mukhallat) of ouds and amber
Arabian Oud puts out some really nice, top-notch oud scents. Royal Oud, Blue Oud, and the hard-to-find Aqua Royal Oud are three that I have, all of which feature Oud(s) blended with musk. Aqua Royal Oud isn't quite the same level of extravagance as Royal Oud, replacing the late-blooming rose note in the latter with what smells like real ambergris.
Enter Mukhallat Dewan Al Sharq, aka Dewan (or even Diwan on the USA website) Al Sharq (or Shark), removing the musk altogether in favor of amber. This appears to be a repacking of the same scent found several years ago in a very different bottle, which, if true, shows Arabian Oud's progressive packaging taking shape around 2010 onward (when perhaps when Kalemat was released in its "Book" fashion). The bottle here is not quite as minimalistic as its original version, but with its body-wrapped engraved leather, somewhat reminiscent of Aqua Royal Oud and nowhere near as extravagant as more recent releases (Al Fareed, for example.) It's worth mentioning this because one can only assume that the repackaging effort was done to attract a more deserving, wider audience. However, it's what's inside that really counts - and trust me, this fragrance needs no gimmick to sell itself.
The first thing of note upon spraying is how incredibly smooth the fragrance is. It doesn't have barnyard or cheesy accord; rather, it's almost velvety in texture with a backbone of shapeshifting woods resting on a golden aura of amber. It's almost creamy to an extent, somewhat thick, but never heavy or oppressive.
The official notes appear to be dependent on which website one is viewing. The official Arabian Oud website(s) lists top notes of Seyoufi oud oil (meaning high quality), mid-note of Cambodian Oud oil, and base notes of Indian Oud oil and amber. Other websites list a note of Borneo Oud somewhere in the mix. At any rate, they're masterfully blended so that they show different facets at different times during different climates (or where you even spray them.) As an update, as of 2023, the official USA website lists rose in there as well, but I don't smell any.
There are moments when the scent seems to morph into a spicy freshness that echoes my experience with Cambodian Oud in other fragrances, and other times there is an underlying fruitiness. Other times, the scent seems to feel a bit darker. Its longevity, on my skin, is very good - we're talking 12+ hours, which allows for gradual, subtle changes - though there are times when it seems like it's changed very little. It's fascinating in this context because it really does appear to be dependent on where it's sprayed, how it's sprayed (closer to or further away from the skin), as well as the climate. Catching whiffs of a decent but not overpowering sillage reveals its complexity and nuances.
Compared to the other oud-based fragrances mentioned above, this is easily #2 behind Royal Oud, which just feels to be on an entirely different level than the others (perhaps justifying its astronomical price), but make no mistake, it's not that far behind as I do find myself more partial to the amber used vs. musk.
Overall, this is a very easy to wear Oud blend with amber that may prove to be fairly versatile in warmer weather as well. It's not cheap, by any means; the normal price on the official website, the only place I could find it, is $425 U.S., but Arabian Oud's occasional sales with a 40% discount make it much easier on the wallet. That being said, comparatively speaking, at that price it's well worth it vs. designer prices with "Oud" in the name only for 1/2 the price. Big thumbs up!
Enter Mukhallat Dewan Al Sharq, aka Dewan (or even Diwan on the USA website) Al Sharq (or Shark), removing the musk altogether in favor of amber. This appears to be a repacking of the same scent found several years ago in a very different bottle, which, if true, shows Arabian Oud's progressive packaging taking shape around 2010 onward (when perhaps when Kalemat was released in its "Book" fashion). The bottle here is not quite as minimalistic as its original version, but with its body-wrapped engraved leather, somewhat reminiscent of Aqua Royal Oud and nowhere near as extravagant as more recent releases (Al Fareed, for example.) It's worth mentioning this because one can only assume that the repackaging effort was done to attract a more deserving, wider audience. However, it's what's inside that really counts - and trust me, this fragrance needs no gimmick to sell itself.
The first thing of note upon spraying is how incredibly smooth the fragrance is. It doesn't have barnyard or cheesy accord; rather, it's almost velvety in texture with a backbone of shapeshifting woods resting on a golden aura of amber. It's almost creamy to an extent, somewhat thick, but never heavy or oppressive.
The official notes appear to be dependent on which website one is viewing. The official Arabian Oud website(s) lists top notes of Seyoufi oud oil (meaning high quality), mid-note of Cambodian Oud oil, and base notes of Indian Oud oil and amber. Other websites list a note of Borneo Oud somewhere in the mix. At any rate, they're masterfully blended so that they show different facets at different times during different climates (or where you even spray them.) As an update, as of 2023, the official USA website lists rose in there as well, but I don't smell any.
There are moments when the scent seems to morph into a spicy freshness that echoes my experience with Cambodian Oud in other fragrances, and other times there is an underlying fruitiness. Other times, the scent seems to feel a bit darker. Its longevity, on my skin, is very good - we're talking 12+ hours, which allows for gradual, subtle changes - though there are times when it seems like it's changed very little. It's fascinating in this context because it really does appear to be dependent on where it's sprayed, how it's sprayed (closer to or further away from the skin), as well as the climate. Catching whiffs of a decent but not overpowering sillage reveals its complexity and nuances.
Compared to the other oud-based fragrances mentioned above, this is easily #2 behind Royal Oud, which just feels to be on an entirely different level than the others (perhaps justifying its astronomical price), but make no mistake, it's not that far behind as I do find myself more partial to the amber used vs. musk.
Overall, this is a very easy to wear Oud blend with amber that may prove to be fairly versatile in warmer weather as well. It's not cheap, by any means; the normal price on the official website, the only place I could find it, is $425 U.S., but Arabian Oud's occasional sales with a 40% discount make it much easier on the wallet. That being said, comparatively speaking, at that price it's well worth it vs. designer prices with "Oud" in the name only for 1/2 the price. Big thumbs up!