Perfume Calligraphy (2012)

Perfume Calligraphy by Aramis
Bottle Design: Tarek Atrissi
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7.6 / 10     161 RatingsRatingsRatings
Perfume Calligraphy is a popular perfume by Aramis for women and men and was released in 2012. The scent is oriental-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It was last marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.

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Perfumer

Trudi Loren

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesLemon, Cinnamon
Heart Notes Heart NotesMyrrh, Saffron blossom, Rose absolute
Base Notes Base NotesMusk, Patchouli, Amber, Oud

Ratings

Scent

7.6 (161 Ratings)

Longevity

8.2 (115 Ratings)

Sillage

7.5 (130 Ratings)

Bottle

8.0 (130 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 02.03.2018
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Reviews

10.0 7.5 10.0 6.0/10
Drseid

670 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
5
Sweet Synthetic Oud (and by "sweet" I don't mean "good")...
Perfume Calligraphy goes on with a mild, amber sweetened cinnamon and vague sharp citrus, supported by traces of saffron spice and Oud. As the composition moves to its early heart the Oud takes its place as star, gaining a slight barnyard animalic facet as it grows in intensity to the point of dominating most of the other composition aspects. Joining the Oud in the background is the supporting hay-like saffron, the relatively sweet, smooth amber and barely detectable dulled rose. The composition remains highly linear through the late dry-down with the Oud taking center stage throughout, only allowing remnants of the saffron detectable with the smooth amber providing mild to moderate sweetness through the finish. Projection is excellent, and longevity outstanding at around 20 hours on skin.

Usually one samples the original composition its flankers are based off of before trying the flankers themselves. In the case of Perfume Calligraphy this was done in reverse. The Rose and Saffron flankers both proved excellent, so it would stand to reason the composition they were based off would impress as well, right? Enter Perfume Calligraphy... As soon as I sprayed the composition on skin disappointment immediately set-in. No, this was not the kind of disappointment from a terrible composition, but rather the kind where you go in with relatively high expectations only to find the composition more in the range of average, maybe even *just* good. The culprit here is the primary Oud note used in Perfume Calligraphy. Definitely the composition shows significant Oud-like qualities with its mild barnyard facet, but to those who have experienced the real thing this will quickly reveal itself as synthetic. Certainly Perfume Calligraphy is not alone in its reliance on synthetics to recreate super-expensive high quality real Oud as most of the "Oud" compositions on the market are equally guilty, but the amber-driven sweetness just doesn't mesh with it well at all. Also of little help, is the synthetic Oud is so dominant that excluding the previously mentioned sweetness, only the saffron spice can hang with it throughout the entire composition's "development". I put quotation marks around the word "development," because there really isn't any. It is the same overall accord throughout from near-start to finish, and the underlying sweetness mixed with the synthetic Oud can get annoying as time passes. In the end one has to appreciate the composition as being well-made with its outstanding performance metrics, but the real question is whether one would want to wear it? In the opinion of this writer the answer is a somewhat hesitant "no". The bottom line is the $120 per 100ml bottle Perfume Calligraphy shows off it performance chops in fine fashion, but its highly linear sweet synthetic Oud focus is tiresome, earning it an "above average" 2.5 to 3 stars out of 5. Having worn its great flankers that are both highly recommended, this one I feel completely indifferent. Word to the wise; buy the Rose and Saffron flankers and leave this one on the shelf, gathering dust.
10.0 7.5 10.0 10.0/10
MasterLi

367 Reviews
MasterLi
MasterLi
Helpful Review    4
Rose, Oud & Saffron...
This is a fragrance which tries to display the oud note in a subtler kind of way more akin to western perfumery. The oud note is subdued and is underlying at the base. The saffron and other spices combined make this fragrance very pleasant and I really can't see how this would offend anyone. It's well blended in my opinion. Probably good for people who do not like their oud very strong or medicinal. Very good effort.

Edit: Actually, I've since discovered that it's the other way round. This is a Western-made perfume designed to appeal towards a Middle Eastern market! I would say that in that purpose it somewhat succeeds. But the problem is most Middle Easterners will prefer a stronger, more authentic Oud note, whilst most Westerners will find this a little strong for their tastes. It's almost like it "halfway" succeeds at both. But I like it! I think its good either way.
7.5 7.5 6.0/10
Coutureguru

223 Reviews
Coutureguru
Coutureguru
Very helpful Review    7
Variations on a theme ...
En route to my semi permanent job on a tropical Island I was thumbing through the on board Duty Free magazine and found Perfume Calligraphy available for purchase at a much better price than in Department stores back home. I bought it :) ...

I have bemoaned the fact that this one and Lauder's Wood Mystique are pretty much the same fragrance, espousing the theory that when Lauder realized the folly of releasing WM to an exclusively Middle Eastern audience, they quickly rebottled it under this name and made it available to the rest of the World. Perfume Calligraphy also reminds me in no small measure of Jo Malone's 'Velvet Rose and Oud' ... 'coincidentally' produced under the auspices of Lauder. Yes, I don't think I'd be far off the mark in saying that all three of these were chosen from a catalogue of work by the same perfumer.
"Why buy it then?" you may ask.
Well, the simple answer to that question is that I really like it ... which is why when the opportunity presented itself, I immediately bought Wood Mystique too. These are typical Lauder fragrances ... heavy on the Patchouli and Rose, and I am strongly reminded of vintage Aromatics Elixir, 900 and Aramis Devin by the construction of Perfume Calligraphy.
The slightly 'medicinal' Patchouli is typically memorable, while the addition of spices and a hefty pop of citrus up top are hard hitting and long lasting. The Rose here is almost gourmand in its chunky chewiness and is inevitably also particularly Lauder-esque. Like its twin Wood Mystique, Perfume Calligraphy harks back to releases from this venerable house that I had feared long gone. Although not quite in the class of sillage 'bombs', these fragrances are nothing if not tenacious and attention getting. Oud is a territory that has become rather commonplace in the last half decade, but I do think that Lauder's versions are some of the most accessible on the market.

Perfume Calligraphy is an honest to goodness attempt at a traditional Oud/Rose/Saffron combination underpinned by a rich Patchouli ... I appreciate it for it's simplicity and lack of pretention.

Statements

ScentedSalon 4 years ago
Strong lemon at the top, lasts forever. No rose, no oud but woody spiciness abounds. Masculine, not soft. A trace of class but too tame.+1
7.5
10.0
8.0

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