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A dozen roses for the man (2/12)
As a newcomer here, I'm going to try my hand at a series of comments. This is the second part.
The motivation, the idea and the criteria
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scent as unisex fragrance, I simply had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke of Penhaligon, I was just in London at the idea)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)
Fragrance No. 2 is: 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract from Atkinsons
(previously: (1) Lumière Noire pour Homme vom Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
The house, the perfumer and the shopping
It was in 1799 that the Britishman James Atkinson discovered the business with fragrances for himself. The spicy, warm Eau de Cologne, which he developed in 1800, became the favourite fragrance of King George IV, who appointed Atkinson the official perfumer of the British royal family. After very successful years, the house had to go through much more difficult times until today. These included closures, several sales in the early 2000s and most recently the takeover by the Italian cosmetics company Perfume Holding (from Procter & Gamble) in 2008. Since the relaunch of the brand in September 2013, however, things have been going "steeply uphill" again. The perfumers Christine Nagel and Violaine Collas both worked for the cosmetics company Mane in the 2010s. The Swiss Christine Nagel (*1959) has been working for Hermés since 2013 and became its head perfumer in 2015. She celebrated her premiere with the "loud" rhubarb Écarlate and furthermore she created my super summer scent Citron Noir. The French Violaine Collas (*1976) (still with Mane) studied (like Francis Kurkdjian) at ISIPCA. In an interview she named the flacon design of the Atkinsons Collection as her favourite. I bought 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract (*2014) on recommendation in the "perfumery of my trust".
The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience
The fragrance is named after the label's ancient headquarters and is said to be "a bow" to the fragrance of 1800. The Old Bond Street is the southern part of the Bond Street in London's noble district Mayfair and belongs to one of the most exclusive shopping streets at all. With juniper, rose, black tea and whiskey, the slogan "Very British" is somewhat worked on with the "fence post", but one after the other.
The fragrance starts with a very spicy rose. The juniper, which belongs to the evergreen cypress plants, should bring in the spice. The essential oil from the mixture of juniper berries and needles exudes a green and herbaceous conifer scent. Galbanum adds to this effect. Galbanum is an ancient medicinal plant found in Central Asia. The galbanum balm is extracted from it and the essential oil is extracted from it. Galbanum is very often used for the effect just described in the top note of fragrances (incidentally, galbanum was used to mummify the dead in ancient Egypt). Besides, I mean, to recognize in the beginning also still another sharpness of the cardamom. In addition, both juniper and galbanum provide both freshness (at the beginning) and a more balsamic development (later). With the teen notes, the whole thing becomes milder and the incense additionally supports the ever warmer, balsamic-spicy, possibly also slightly resinous base. Incense resin (Olibanum) is extracted from the incense tree (India, Arabia and parts of Africa). The incense production lasts several months and its yield depends strongly on age, size and condition of the tree. Also already in ancient Egypt incense was used as incense and remedy. After approx. 2 hours the fragrance gets a light sweet touch. This is partly due to the tonka bean, of course, and partly to the smoky wooden whiskey. (Note: more on the tonka bean at the earliest opportunity)
The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application
For me the rose in 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract goes on a beautifully composed, special journey from spicy fresh to balsamic warm. All aspects are preserved on this journey, because all fragrance components interlock very beautifully. The Sillage is not so strong, which is quite good for the use in the job - at least for me. I'm glad I have the scent and I use it a lot. Over 80 previous reviews with an 8, and I'm sticking to that.
(1) Lumière Noire pour Homme - The noble softie
(2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract - The elegant Brite
P.S. Thanks for the great answers and ratings for my first comment. That spurs.