A *masterpiece*? BADGLEY MISCHKA?
Clearly I'm missing something. Sure it smells nice enough, but there's no no cause for olfactory ecstasy in this genteel ANGEL derivative. (Isn't that actually a contradiction in terms?) To my nose, this composition is a essentially a weak solution of the ANGEL base with some stewed peaches (no extra sugar added, thankfully) thrown into the mix. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that BADGLEY MISCHKA might have been one of the Angel of Stars, "Angel La Pêche,” well, except that it is way too weak, so they'd have to bottle the extrait as the edp (which is in any case what Thierry Mugler appears to have done with all of the ANGEL namesake flankers—that's why a lifetime supply can be found in those apparently small .8oz bottles!).
I disagree with the categorization of BADGLEY MISCHKA as a fruity chypre. When I think “fruity chypre,” I think YVRESSE or DECI DELA or FEMME ROCHAS or MITSOUKO or BRYANT PARK. Patchouli alone does not a chypre make, IMNSHO. In my perfume book, chypre is an honorific term denoting a texture and depth entirely absent from BADGLEY MISCHKA.
Nor is BADGLEY MISCHKA a fruity-floral perfume, as Luca Turin's wife maintains—she claims in her review of FLEURS DE NUIT that BADGLEY MISCHKA “unexpectedly perfected the much-maligned fruity-floral genre.” Say what? Since when is patchouli a flower? Clearly the authors of The Holey[sic] Book are banking—and I mean that, I really do—on the fact that most of their readers are utter ignoramuses. But I digress...
Although the opening of BADGLEY MISCHKA is an attention grabber, it is short-lived, ceding nearly immediately to a polite, very light oriental with middling longevity. Because it has been the object of a serious “mission civilisatrice,” BADGLEY MISCHKA will not remind many of ANGEL, I realize. Perhaps aesthetically it would be better compared to FERRE edp, except that the latter is a much more beautiful perfume, with a unique and distinctive identity, rather than being simply another distant relative to a famous perfume. (okay, it is related to IRIS POUDRE, by the same perfumer, but it's still unique...). In FERRE edp, fruit is skillfully deployed to complement iris. In BADGLEY MISCHKA, the fruit is just trying to break through, even to be discernible amidst the dominant, albeit dilute, ANGELesque base.
Happily, the bottle really is a work of art.