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Less would have been more
Wow, this fragrance is a real firecracker: full-bodied, polyphonic, persistent and of heavy texture, not to say bold.
Years ago, when fragrances that I cheered for couldn't be loud and opulent enough, 'Mem' would have totally thrilled me. But since then my preferences have changed a bit and I prefer slimmer, generally more subtle fragrances. But 'Mem' is exactly the opposite. Such an enormously orchestrated fragrance has not come under my nose for a long time. Dozens of chords buzz loudly in confusion, drowned out by a booming triad of lavender, honey and animal essences.
But, and I really have to stress this: despite all cacophony and overweight: 'Mem' smells good, damn good.
But you have to like scents like 'Jicky', 'Miel de Bois' and 'Kouros'. Polarizing fragrances, mainly due to their animal exhalations, which reliably evoke associations of toilet blocks or full baby diapers. But the animal side of 'Mem' is, in my opinion, very civilized, especially compared to scents like 'Leather Oud' or 'Figment Man'. Probably it is however for many, for very many even, already no longer tolerable. Especially since the honey chord, which develops relatively little sweetness, lends this animal haze a certain sultriness, which with greater intensity would certainly be breathing. But this way, artfully calibrated, I don't only feel it as just bearable, but also as decidedly erotic.
While the highly praised predecessor fragrance 'Maai' was an attempt to revive the great animalic chypres of the past in a new interpretation, 'Mem' is an attempt to provide a worthy successor to the old Fougère battle horses such as 'Jicky', 'Pour un Homme de Caron', 'Zizanie', 'Brut' and 'Kouros'. And yes, this attempt was successful. With its many references to the past, 'Mem' is a retro fragrance 'par excellence'. However, one who is not content to be a well-made revenant of a well-known legend, but one who develops his own character, a modern face. But to call it, as some do, a modern fragrance, I wouldn't go that far. Too clearly 'Jicky' (lavender vanilla confection), 'Miel de Bois' (unsweet, woody aromatic honey) and 'Kouros' (the almost excessive use of the base 'Animalis') were the inspiration.
All in all a very successful fragrance, but for my feeling a bit 'over the top'. Too much of a good thing in many ways. I wanted it to be smaller, more discreet, and yes, also less long-lasting. Sprayed in the morning, the fragrance is still perceptible in the evening in such an intensity that you want to exclaim exhausted: Off, end, it's enough!
But 'Mem' does not release the wearer, no matter how homoeopathically he dosed the scent, but slowly but surely wrestles him down.
Conclusion: great, but less really would have been more.