Douleur! 2019

Douleur! by Bogue
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Douleur! is a new perfume by Bogue for women and men and was released in 2019. The scent is synthetic-floral. Projection and longevity are above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Perfumer

Antonio Gardoni

Fragrance Notes

Spearmint, Melon, Damask rose, Cotton candy, Civet, Benzoin, Kelp, Lavender, Rosemary, Acetate, Aldehydes, Caramel, Vanilla, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Oakmoss

Ratings

Scent

6.5 (26 Ratings)

Longevity

9.3 (24 Ratings)

Sillage

9.0 (25 Ratings)

Bottle

7.4 (22 Ratings)
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 14.08.2020.

Interesting Facts

The scent was created in collaboration with tattoo artist Freddie Albrighton.
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Reviews

10
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
9
Bottle
X57deadsoulx
Translated Show originalShow translation
X57deadsoulx
X57deadsoulx
Top Review    18  
Daddies makin Monsters
Is the song of one of my favourite psychobilly bands "Demented are Go".
What does that have to do with the scent itself? Nothing to do with the scent itself,
but with Bogue.

I imagine Antonio Gardoni, in this case "Daddy", sitting in his "garden shed" and creating his little monsters with all kinds of wild substances. Fruits, flowers, animals and all of them colorful, mixed and lots of them. Frankenstein's monster would probably go green with envy if his "father" had assembled him from so many wonderful things. (This would probably not bring good to his damaged psyche).
The Bogues of the fragrance are not really real monsters themselves. They are special, special and exciting. That describes the scents better for me...

So where is the monster? The monster is in the durability and sillage of these fragrances. These scents take over their environment, maybe they scare some people... But why a generalization, although I actually want to write something about DOULEUR!?

Very simple:
DOULEUR! is for me the misunderstood head monster.
It surpasses its monster siblings once again in terms of durability and sillage. In addition, he is probably the most inaccessible of his siblings.
DOULEUR! means "pain" translated from the French In my opinion, that's a very good point
When spraying the first one on, the top note probably kills you, your nose hurts. At least, that's what happened to me. I simply inhaled too deeply and didn't expect to get such a strength blown through my olfactory organ.
A mixture of melon, here for me a galia melon "torn" by mint. Like a predator, the mint tears the melon apart. It is accompanied by a light, for me indefinable note. It could be seaweed Then it's the rose that kicks in, not just any rose. Here I have to agree with the previous speaker EmergeR, it reminds me here also of rose oxide that I know and love Alcane from Aether's Rose. For me, rose oxide seems cool, ethereal, almost somehow reminiscent of blood.
Rosenoxid has almost something of science fiction for me, so from now on it is a "Bloodsucking Rose from outer Space" ;)
More and more idiosyncratic background aromas are hitting the fragrance, cotton candy is noted and, to my mind, also appears in an entertaining way, but then the civet cat, which has run through the lavender field, attacks.
Everything is very finely interwoven with each other, whereby for me the rose oxide paired with melon and mint remains most perceptible. The remaining aromas flicker in the background and cheer on the unequal pair of fragrances.
The scent is certainly sweetish, but not gourmand, also no cotton candy or anything else. It is difficult to describe this sweetness, it is not a sweetness that is known from sugar. In addition, the coolness of the rose oxide and mint is permanently preserved and breaks the sweetness mentioned.

This fragrance will definitely split the mind. Either you love it or you hate it. There will be no in-between. But you should give it at least two chances instead of just testing it once and then throwing the bottle out of the window in fright. ;)

However, for me there is only one thing to say as a conclusion:
I find it incredibly beautiful, this fragrance has triggered something in me that not many fragrances create in this sense. It has conjured up colors in my head Perhaps this was also an intention of Mr Gardoni and Albrighton. Mr Albrighton is a tattoo artist.
Doeuleur means pain... The scent conjures up a colourful picture in my head. Rose oxide reminds me of blood...
All in all, I imagine the whole thing in something like this:

A tattoo artist, tattoos his client. It becomes a colorful old-school motif. The metal needle dips into the paint and spreads a little bit of the pigments over the workbench. The artist uses a magnetic coil machine. The familiar sound of a tattoo machine lights up the shop with its penetrance, the needle penetrates the skin. A slightly throbbing pain flows through the customer. Little by little, blood emerges from isolated spots, which the artist wipes clean little by little. The session ends after over 12 hours. Afterwards the artist asks his client: "Was it worth the pain?"
The customer replies: "Every single second."
14 Replies
9
Scent
9
Longevity
9
Sillage
8
Bottle
EmergeR
Translated Show originalShow translation
EmergeR
EmergeR
Top Review    9  
Is there such a thing as positive penetration?!
Mr. Gardoni (architect and one-man-show called Bogue Profumo) is praised by Mr. Turin (scientist and controversial perfume critic). Now that my favourite shop in Cologne carries this brand I went for a walk with "Douleur!" for one day (on my arm, under my sweater...)
Let me put it this way: Strong tobacco, but without tobacco, but with a rose, but with a "different rose".
Rose scents are usually not very popular. They remind many people too much of the classic scents of their grandmothers. Therefore, for women often difficult and for men usually a no-go! What a pity actually.
The rose in "Douleur!" is not a classic rose - as soon as I sprayed it on, I noticed that it had an unusual penetrance, much brighter, less warm than I was used to from rose scents. And directly I had an association to another rose favorite: "Rose Alcane" from Æther. Here, however, there is no "real" rose, but rose oxide, a fragrance molecule that is one of the main components of real rose oil. The rose oxide lacks the depth and volume of a "real" rose. It is ethereal, almost slightly metallic, rather cool, as if you were blowing pulverized rose petals into the air and simply leaving out everything else like structure, stems, thorns (which are actually spines). I myself have always found fragrance molecules very exciting and inspiring.
While "Rose Alcane", however, consciously takes this approach and emphasizes the metallic-etheric character, Mr. Gardoni (to whom I am also referring here to the use of rose oxide) does something else: he weaves an extremely complex carpet of "background aromas" that give the ethereal rose an incredible warmth, depth and penetrance. Sometimes fresh, fruity notes flash out, sometimes sweet, almost powdery ones, and in the background there is always a skilfully dosed animalism playing along.
"Douleur!" drowns out everything - it's a loud, but by no means shrill scent. On my skin it lasted about 10 - 12 hours, but on my clothes it was still noticeable two days later. It is definitely unique, and in contrast to the other Bogue scents, it centres itself much more strongly on a central theme (rose) and is therefore, despite its complexity, not quite as versatile as e.g. "MEM" or "MAAI", in which IMHO "happens" much more. Nevertheless solid, multilayered and portable work. Chapeau!
3 Replies
7
Scent
10
Longevity
9
Sillage
10
Bottle
Emorandeira

280 Reviews
Emorandeira
Emorandeira
   0  
Seaweeds and cotton Candy beast mode
One of the weirdest fragances i have tried...but i think i like It!! ???????? At the opening the sugar cotton is very perceptible.to the dry down It goes to the background giving to the fragance a subtle sweet vibe during all his Life. I can get the seeweed, the benzoin giving a balsámic character to the fragances, the rose and the melón... But the mix of all this ingredientes i dont know what smells like.
The performance is incredible... Douleur is a beast with all the vocals and consonants...i think i Will finally buy It in the future!

Scent: 7
Longevity: 10
Sillage: 9
Quality/price: 6
Versatility: 5
Originality: 10
Global: 8
6
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
ScentFan

327 Reviews
ScentFan
ScentFan
   1  
Yes, Pain
That's what the name translates to, pain. Douleur is a cacophany of scents that never actually blend, twisting the brain this way and that, not letting any single impression coalesce. And that may be the point. Was this meant to be an olfactory translation of pain--the inability to relax or to ignore sensation? After all, this is Bogue and the genius of Antonio Gardoni. Each of the elements is beautifully handled, naturally, but together they offer no repose. Is it Civet or Benzoin for goodness sake, Kelp or Lavendar, Spearmint or Melon? Douleir is all of them and more. It conjures an image of Gardoni lying in bed, unable to sleep, meds not strong enough to dull his distress. Restlessly he struggles to his perfume organ and lets it speak for what he can't escape--misery endured yet still after while ... the beauty of being alive. I have a decant and may not buy this Bogue. It's certainly interesting though. Hmm, wait. I looked it up on LuckyScent. Pain, yes, but not from illness, apparently. Gordoni consulted a tattoo artist and bondage master in designing it. Thus the pleasure/pain result. Ah well, let the genius creative mind play.

Statements

EmorandeiraEmorandeira 9 months ago
7
Scent
10
Longevity
9
Sillage
10
Bottle
One of the weirdest fragances i have ever tried. Cotton Candy and seaweed over a balsámic background... But It is nice... And a real beast!
PMRP12PMRP12 10 months ago
2
Scent
Stomach-turning mixture of fruit, spearmint, algae, and cotton candy. Why this mixture of things, I have no idea. I want this off my skin.

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