Flower infusions and extracts are Dmitry's absolute passion. His creative engine, some might say. So it's not that surprising that I simply ordered this fragrance blindly with my last order.
By the way, I recommend the interview with Ensar Oud on Youtube to everyone to learn more about the way Dmitry manufactures his oils and floral notes. This is when you begin to see Dmitry´s fragrances with his passion and through his eyes.
As with almost all fragrances of the Bortnikoff brand, the fascination lies in the details. Yes, they're very beautiful flowers. Certainly again, as an oudh infusion, to use the wood as a carrier, but also as a counter part.
For me, however, the exciting thing was that deep below all this flowering splendour, which at the beginning has slightly Indolic tendencies, lies a hidden, dark chypre. If one would proceed according to "manual", one could think that oakmoss and musk are missing in the base. But let me explain this later...
Bitter orange citric blends perfectly with jasmine and, above all, with champaka to create a dense, warming splendour. Through oriental sounds and the work with the oudh, cocoa associations, but also a light earthiness shine trough in this fragrance. This counter part to the floral sounds lets the fragrance slide from the very beginning into a variation of chypre that I like very much.
The dark chypre, as I named it for myself.
Dark Chypres, for me, are Chyprés, which do not lose themselves too much in the maturation of a citric, and which also allow for the dark tones of jasmine, more sensual tones. Another good example for me is still Diaghilev.
L'Heure Exquise now shines warm and dark. Gives and also takes space to unfold. It only needs a sprayer to know a companion on the skin for hours.
L'Heure Exquise smells much darker on the skin than it is perceived in the room and around me. There it is the "Dark Chypre".
The most exciting twist in this fragrance is Dmitry's combination of oudh, resin (Styrax & Tolu) and ambergris. While the ambergris actually brings in a warming sensuality and thus more than just replaces the "missing" musk, the oud apparently also has a slightly green, mossy component. These are bound on a sweetish wooden resin bed.
And yet the scent floats on the skin. Has so much radiance and endurance in all its warm darkness that it remains unchanged on my skin for almost 8 hours. Before it dries down in warm resins and wood.