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Notes05/16/2019
Yatagan
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Yatagan
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Emancipation
Uncommented fragrance No. 136
I will leave out the discussion about the reformulation and the allegedly much better original scent, because I probably know the original (tested 15 years ago), but I have neither stored a filling in my scent organ nor a memory in my brain. So I don't take part in the discussion about the alleged weakness of the new version, which made waves up to Luca Turin's first guide and which gave the 2008 version only one star. I also don't want to speculate whether Caron has managed in the meantime to pick up on the old size again and to revive the scent. After all, Caron is one of those houses that, like Guerlain, handle reformulations somewhat more carefully, which in view of the limited possibilities can only mean not shooting from the hip and instead letting a little waiting time pass before throwing new formulas onto the market
Contrary to my assertion in the statement, I no longer find that Tabac Blond (Parfum) in the 2019 version is a dominant leather scent (side-saddle), but would like to be guided by the association the name suggests, namely the idea of light tobacco. Tabac Blond is also reminiscent of traditional leather scents such as Knize Ten and Bel Ami (so not of these unspeakable synthetic leather perfumes of the new generation from Tom Ford & Co., which all contain this suede leather note): sweetish, animalistic, with sandalwood, amber, beaver and or civet, spicy blossom notes etc. as they used to be used to hide the infernal animal smell of tanned leather. Tabac Blond somehow still belongs in this category, even though I prefer Knize Ten.
But the fragrance reminds me even more of flavoured pipe tobacco, which contains a cognactone and is sweetly spiced with vanilla. That's not bad, but it's not something I wanted to wear all the time. It takes a certain mood to do that. I suspect also here sandalwood, amber, vanilla and an animal component. In addition something floral, certainly iris, but also rose and white bloomer. However, the individual components are not separable, but result in a dark, cognac-like, somewhat smoky, warm, sweetish overall tone.
The idea behind it fits quite well with the year 1919, one year after the horrors of the First World War and again one year before the beginning of the Roaring Twenties, in which women discovered smoking in the context of emancipation, understood as a sign of equal rights and the increasing will of women to participate in society. Seen in this light, the fragrance still has something to offer today, because it is a fragrant symbol despite more or less less successful reformulations. And where else would that be!
I will leave out the discussion about the reformulation and the allegedly much better original scent, because I probably know the original (tested 15 years ago), but I have neither stored a filling in my scent organ nor a memory in my brain. So I don't take part in the discussion about the alleged weakness of the new version, which made waves up to Luca Turin's first guide and which gave the 2008 version only one star. I also don't want to speculate whether Caron has managed in the meantime to pick up on the old size again and to revive the scent. After all, Caron is one of those houses that, like Guerlain, handle reformulations somewhat more carefully, which in view of the limited possibilities can only mean not shooting from the hip and instead letting a little waiting time pass before throwing new formulas onto the market
Contrary to my assertion in the statement, I no longer find that Tabac Blond (Parfum) in the 2019 version is a dominant leather scent (side-saddle), but would like to be guided by the association the name suggests, namely the idea of light tobacco. Tabac Blond is also reminiscent of traditional leather scents such as Knize Ten and Bel Ami (so not of these unspeakable synthetic leather perfumes of the new generation from Tom Ford & Co., which all contain this suede leather note): sweetish, animalistic, with sandalwood, amber, beaver and or civet, spicy blossom notes etc. as they used to be used to hide the infernal animal smell of tanned leather. Tabac Blond somehow still belongs in this category, even though I prefer Knize Ten.
But the fragrance reminds me even more of flavoured pipe tobacco, which contains a cognactone and is sweetly spiced with vanilla. That's not bad, but it's not something I wanted to wear all the time. It takes a certain mood to do that. I suspect also here sandalwood, amber, vanilla and an animal component. In addition something floral, certainly iris, but also rose and white bloomer. However, the individual components are not separable, but result in a dark, cognac-like, somewhat smoky, warm, sweetish overall tone.
The idea behind it fits quite well with the year 1919, one year after the horrors of the First World War and again one year before the beginning of the Roaring Twenties, in which women discovered smoking in the context of emancipation, understood as a sign of equal rights and the increasing will of women to participate in society. Seen in this light, the fragrance still has something to offer today, because it is a fragrant symbol despite more or less less successful reformulations. And where else would that be!
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