01/05/2020
Melisse2
24 Reviews
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Melisse2
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Uncommented Caron classic by Ernest Daltroff
There is no comment on this fragrance yet, neither for the vintage version nor for the new editions as eau de parfum and perfume in 2017.
Perhaps the Caron classics are a little out of fashion after all, and the low interest in these fragrances even on perfume proves this.
In October 2018, after twenty years of investment, the French cosmetics group Alès Groupe sold the Caron brand to the investment company of the Benjamin and Ariane de Rothschild family, also French, due to the decline in sales. With this acquisition there are hopes for the preservation of the Caron heritage. Ariane de Rothschild is considered a long-time fan of the brand and is said to wear "Or et Noir" herself, an exceptionally beautiful fragrance that smells like rose cream soap to me.
They parted company perfumer William Fraysse, who had only taken over the position from his father in 2017, and hired Jean Jacques, who had previously worked for the fragrance group Takasago for 22 years and of whom numerous fragrances are listed on Parfumo, which he developed for various brands. On Fragrantica you will find a contribution which mentions that Ariane Rothschild does not want to limit herself to the role of spectator, but wants to form a duo with the house perfumer Jean Jacques and realize her own ideas, as the tandem of Ernest Daltroff and Félicie Wanpouille has done in the history of the House of Caron. (All information found on different internet pages)
On November 1, 2019, a number of Caron fragrances were discontinued, including French Cancan. Whether this is final or one intends to reissue the classics in an improved recipe - I have not found any information about this
At the same time, the first four new fragrances by Jean Jacques were launched at the end of last year, and information about them can currently be found on Caron's Facebook page, for example, but they cannot be ordered. You can probably only get them in the Caron boutiques in Paris at the moment
Jeez, is this going to be a long commentary when the preface is already so epic.
So let's finally get to the fragrance itself, which I tested this time as a vintage version, although I don't know how old it is.
I don't really know what that means either, because it's certainly not from 1936, and a new formulation of French Cancan is documented for at least 2011, and it's likely that it underwent further changes when it was released in the Collection Privée series in 2017. Whether the scent was continuously diluted on that occasion is also not certain. Anyway, the perfume version of 2017 is on its way to me, so there will soon be a direct comparison possibility.
For me, Fench Cancan starts with a fragrance chord that remotely reminds me of the drizzly mist of "Orage@Louis Vuitton", only weaker, much softer and more complex - and which makes me look forward to the further development of the fragrance.
I smell above all a triad of orange blossom, patchouli and oakmoss. The latter not very strong and only a little green and bitter, which strengthens my belief that my vintage version is not ancient. And I have the impression that I perceive a part of the wonderful basis of "En Avion (perfume)" relatively early. The orange blossom appears more pleasing and discreet in the French Cancan than in the two narcissus scents of Caron. Slightly tart, but less strict and not at all Indolic.
Despite the lack of hesperides I find French Cancan to be a gentle chypre, I think I also notice the slight lemon sprinkles, which I definitely smell in "En Avion". With a touch of leather, the fragrance also evokes memories of "Tabac Blond"
Otherwise French Cancan is such a densely interwoven potpourri of different flowers that it is difficult for me to single out individual ones. I certainly smell a note of violet and rose in the beginning, but not as in the numerous rose scents of Caron, but rather in the floral series.
The fragrance becomes more and more powdery as it progresses. In contrast to "En Avion", the base lacks vanilla, making it look less warm but cooler and fresher.
Perhaps the Caron classics are a little out of fashion after all, and the low interest in these fragrances even on perfume proves this.
In October 2018, after twenty years of investment, the French cosmetics group Alès Groupe sold the Caron brand to the investment company of the Benjamin and Ariane de Rothschild family, also French, due to the decline in sales. With this acquisition there are hopes for the preservation of the Caron heritage. Ariane de Rothschild is considered a long-time fan of the brand and is said to wear "Or et Noir" herself, an exceptionally beautiful fragrance that smells like rose cream soap to me.
They parted company perfumer William Fraysse, who had only taken over the position from his father in 2017, and hired Jean Jacques, who had previously worked for the fragrance group Takasago for 22 years and of whom numerous fragrances are listed on Parfumo, which he developed for various brands. On Fragrantica you will find a contribution which mentions that Ariane Rothschild does not want to limit herself to the role of spectator, but wants to form a duo with the house perfumer Jean Jacques and realize her own ideas, as the tandem of Ernest Daltroff and Félicie Wanpouille has done in the history of the House of Caron. (All information found on different internet pages)
On November 1, 2019, a number of Caron fragrances were discontinued, including French Cancan. Whether this is final or one intends to reissue the classics in an improved recipe - I have not found any information about this
At the same time, the first four new fragrances by Jean Jacques were launched at the end of last year, and information about them can currently be found on Caron's Facebook page, for example, but they cannot be ordered. You can probably only get them in the Caron boutiques in Paris at the moment
Jeez, is this going to be a long commentary when the preface is already so epic.
So let's finally get to the fragrance itself, which I tested this time as a vintage version, although I don't know how old it is.
I don't really know what that means either, because it's certainly not from 1936, and a new formulation of French Cancan is documented for at least 2011, and it's likely that it underwent further changes when it was released in the Collection Privée series in 2017. Whether the scent was continuously diluted on that occasion is also not certain. Anyway, the perfume version of 2017 is on its way to me, so there will soon be a direct comparison possibility.
For me, Fench Cancan starts with a fragrance chord that remotely reminds me of the drizzly mist of "Orage@Louis Vuitton", only weaker, much softer and more complex - and which makes me look forward to the further development of the fragrance.
I smell above all a triad of orange blossom, patchouli and oakmoss. The latter not very strong and only a little green and bitter, which strengthens my belief that my vintage version is not ancient. And I have the impression that I perceive a part of the wonderful basis of "En Avion (perfume)" relatively early. The orange blossom appears more pleasing and discreet in the French Cancan than in the two narcissus scents of Caron. Slightly tart, but less strict and not at all Indolic.
Despite the lack of hesperides I find French Cancan to be a gentle chypre, I think I also notice the slight lemon sprinkles, which I definitely smell in "En Avion". With a touch of leather, the fragrance also evokes memories of "Tabac Blond"
Otherwise French Cancan is such a densely interwoven potpourri of different flowers that it is difficult for me to single out individual ones. I certainly smell a note of violet and rose in the beginning, but not as in the numerous rose scents of Caron, but rather in the floral series.
The fragrance becomes more and more powdery as it progresses. In contrast to "En Avion", the base lacks vanilla, making it look less warm but cooler and fresher.
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