"La Panthère" by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier is by no means a remake of the discontinued "Panthère" from 1987, which was a dense powerhouse-fragrance. If you expect a "parfum de femme fatale", don't be disappointed, the new Cartier is civilised and starts with fruity top-notes of apple and rhubarb, quite transparent and not heavy. Then the star of the composition is brought into play, Laurent says it's gardenia, but it's not the usual kind of gardenia many of us know. The gardenia in "La Panthère" is understated in its opulence, it's vague and amorphous, somewhat "unreal". Fortunately, the floral accord is teamed with oakmoss and musk (a modern fruity chypre?), and when all the notes have unfolded, the perfume seems to glide and fade into the dusk without any jungle snarls. Anyone from 25 to 100 can lose themselves in the subtle elegance of "La Panthère" and seasons don't pose a problem either, "La Panthère" is equal to any occasion and all climats. For Cartier devotees it fills the gap between the "Eau de Cartier" range with its clean simplicity and the soliflore-composition of "Le Baiser". "La Panthère" by the great Mathilde Laurent is innovative without being conversely complex, intense without being overwhelming and pervasive without aiming at any great depth. A nice armchair adventure, with the wild animal, la panthère sauvage, at a safe distance.
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