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Notes01/20/2021
Patpow
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Patpow
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7
Chèvre
The taste, aroma and fragrance of a fresh lemon are each in themselves a miracle of nature. Its peel, flesh and juice are incomparable. No fruit shines brighter than it. Everything about it shines - triggering in us associations of freshness, purity, health and well-being. While other fruits are mostly reminiscent of the upcoming autumn (e.g. apples and pears) and still others, far from ordinary everyday experience, evoke images of the South Seas (e.g. pineapple and papaya), the lemon, thanks to Mediterranean cuisine, is closely linked to the European summer. What other fruit better embodied the sun of beautiful Italy. Many a fragrance creation is dedicated to this connection.
One might think that nothing is more difficult than capturing an authentic piece of such an ephemeral natural wonder in an enduring perfume. A look into the kitchen of the aroma industry gives credence to this assumption. We are surrounded by 'citrus' fragrances, but all too often their impression bears no resemblance to the olfactory experience of a real, fresh lemon. In fact, citrus scents and aromas are everywhere and nowhere at the same time: neither in many fruit yoghurts, chocolate pralines or lemonades, nor in most shampoos, deodorants and soaps, which are (supposed to be) perceived as citrusy and advertise themselves with the beautiful yellow of the lemon, is there even the slightest trace of what a fresh lemon is able to convey. The devil is in the details - even in a supposedly simple thing like a lemon. It is in the preparation, preservation or synthesis of its flavour. This obviously cannot be simply re-created.
As a work of art, it can therefore already understand if just this succeeds in a perfume. Now Allure Homme Edition Blanche is certainly not the only fragrance that accomplishes this. However, among those that I know of for comparison, it occupies a special position because it is absolutely authentic. Its fragrance is indeed the aroma of a freshly squeezed lemon. Its "Blanche" stands for the fluorescent bluish white of its fresh fruit juice. In the top note, Chanel has thus succeeded in conjuring up a magnificent wonder of nature in a flacon, which in itself may be considered a small miracle.
If Allure Blanche stopped at the top note, it would be a pleasant fresh scent, a pure, perfectly successful replica of nature to spray at the touch of a button. And yet this would hardly be enough to stand as an independent fragrance creation. The feat of creation actually only becomes apparent a little later: after about 30 minutes, when the fresh citrus aroma slowly begins to recede, the heart note of Allure Blanche becomes discernible, which at first quietly supports the lemon while gradually gaining in importance. Vanilla, almond and light woody notes (soft cedar) are now found in the fragrance, lending sweetness, creaminess and spiciness to the acidity of the lemon. The combination of the individual components is very subtle, so that it seems to follow a natural course: the one merges completely organically into the other. The fragrance always remains radiant, only its consistency and brightness change over time: the white becomes opaque, the fluorescence diminishes - the fresh juice turns into a fruity-scented spiced milk.
Finally, in the base note, Allure Blanche is a little reminiscent of Bleu. Here, the color metaphor seems to come to its limits. However, Blanche does not become a 'blue' fragrance in the process, but retains its natural freshness and authenticity, quite unlike the ambroxan-heavy blues.
This Allure Homme by Chanel may at first seem like a very simple fragrance creation. Its technical and aesthetic genius probably only comes to light at second glance. However, for all those who have the patience to remain curious beyond the top note, this fragrance is a 'secret tip'. And for all those who love lemons, it is definitely worth a try.
One might think that nothing is more difficult than capturing an authentic piece of such an ephemeral natural wonder in an enduring perfume. A look into the kitchen of the aroma industry gives credence to this assumption. We are surrounded by 'citrus' fragrances, but all too often their impression bears no resemblance to the olfactory experience of a real, fresh lemon. In fact, citrus scents and aromas are everywhere and nowhere at the same time: neither in many fruit yoghurts, chocolate pralines or lemonades, nor in most shampoos, deodorants and soaps, which are (supposed to be) perceived as citrusy and advertise themselves with the beautiful yellow of the lemon, is there even the slightest trace of what a fresh lemon is able to convey. The devil is in the details - even in a supposedly simple thing like a lemon. It is in the preparation, preservation or synthesis of its flavour. This obviously cannot be simply re-created.
As a work of art, it can therefore already understand if just this succeeds in a perfume. Now Allure Homme Edition Blanche is certainly not the only fragrance that accomplishes this. However, among those that I know of for comparison, it occupies a special position because it is absolutely authentic. Its fragrance is indeed the aroma of a freshly squeezed lemon. Its "Blanche" stands for the fluorescent bluish white of its fresh fruit juice. In the top note, Chanel has thus succeeded in conjuring up a magnificent wonder of nature in a flacon, which in itself may be considered a small miracle.
If Allure Blanche stopped at the top note, it would be a pleasant fresh scent, a pure, perfectly successful replica of nature to spray at the touch of a button. And yet this would hardly be enough to stand as an independent fragrance creation. The feat of creation actually only becomes apparent a little later: after about 30 minutes, when the fresh citrus aroma slowly begins to recede, the heart note of Allure Blanche becomes discernible, which at first quietly supports the lemon while gradually gaining in importance. Vanilla, almond and light woody notes (soft cedar) are now found in the fragrance, lending sweetness, creaminess and spiciness to the acidity of the lemon. The combination of the individual components is very subtle, so that it seems to follow a natural course: the one merges completely organically into the other. The fragrance always remains radiant, only its consistency and brightness change over time: the white becomes opaque, the fluorescence diminishes - the fresh juice turns into a fruity-scented spiced milk.
Finally, in the base note, Allure Blanche is a little reminiscent of Bleu. Here, the color metaphor seems to come to its limits. However, Blanche does not become a 'blue' fragrance in the process, but retains its natural freshness and authenticity, quite unlike the ambroxan-heavy blues.
This Allure Homme by Chanel may at first seem like a very simple fragrance creation. Its technical and aesthetic genius probably only comes to light at second glance. However, for all those who have the patience to remain curious beyond the top note, this fragrance is a 'secret tip'. And for all those who love lemons, it is definitely worth a try.
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