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Notes03/27/2020
DerDefcon
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DerDefcon
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16
It's all bullshit.
The declaration of Coromandel as a supposedly "pure" women's fragrance irritated me so much when wearing and testing it that I took the liberty of calling up all Chanel fragrances that Parfumo has listed (i.e. all of them) and adjusting the filter settings so that only unisex fragrances are displayed. Phew ... it's pretty poor, what Chanel has in its portfolio in this direction. Apparently, this somewhat elitist brand is still one that divides fragrances classically into "male" and "female", while the unisex idea is lived far too carefully. And it is exactly this caution that does not do justice to the wonderful Coromandel water. Actually, only very few fragrances will do so, since the motto "wear what you like" should apply to all of them instead of hanging on to artificially created gender boundaries. But let's leave this discussion for a moment and dedicate ourselves to the olfactory.
The prelude presents me with a riddle at the beginning. Did "Lumière Noire pour homme" accidentally end up in the mini-sprayer? I clearly perceive a rose-patchouli compound, which I also know from Kurkdjian's masterpiece. But the "fear", if one can speak of such a thing at all, disappears, because with the addition of a slightly fruity note, probably originating from the top note, the whole thing develops its own character. Thus, the rose retreats more and more over time, leaving the field to the green-earthy patchouli, which completely eradicates the citrus fruit except for a small residue and never lets the fragrance drift into the fruity youthfulness. I mean to smell benzoin in this context as well, but not a bit sweet or sticky like you are used to from other benzoin crackers. Only a discreetly colicky aroma comes through, whereby one has to work hard and concentrate to classify it as smoky or benzoin-like, which actually only shows how excellently the two perfumers succeeded in harmoniously combining all scents. The scent, which progresses quickly but not too quickly, finishes with musk and vanilla, which makes the earthy patchouli a little creamy and sweet without being sticky or prescription for diabetics.
In the end, something was created in which earthy patchouli, refreshed with subtle fruit, meets a vanilla cream with a minimum of sweetness. This can actually be worn at any time and at any place, without the environment being slain, and this, mind you, by both sexes. This stiffening of male and female fragrance is - I just have to repeat it again - a big nonsense
The prelude presents me with a riddle at the beginning. Did "Lumière Noire pour homme" accidentally end up in the mini-sprayer? I clearly perceive a rose-patchouli compound, which I also know from Kurkdjian's masterpiece. But the "fear", if one can speak of such a thing at all, disappears, because with the addition of a slightly fruity note, probably originating from the top note, the whole thing develops its own character. Thus, the rose retreats more and more over time, leaving the field to the green-earthy patchouli, which completely eradicates the citrus fruit except for a small residue and never lets the fragrance drift into the fruity youthfulness. I mean to smell benzoin in this context as well, but not a bit sweet or sticky like you are used to from other benzoin crackers. Only a discreetly colicky aroma comes through, whereby one has to work hard and concentrate to classify it as smoky or benzoin-like, which actually only shows how excellently the two perfumers succeeded in harmoniously combining all scents. The scent, which progresses quickly but not too quickly, finishes with musk and vanilla, which makes the earthy patchouli a little creamy and sweet without being sticky or prescription for diabetics.
In the end, something was created in which earthy patchouli, refreshed with subtle fruit, meets a vanilla cream with a minimum of sweetness. This can actually be worn at any time and at any place, without the environment being slain, and this, mind you, by both sexes. This stiffening of male and female fragrance is - I just have to repeat it again - a big nonsense
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