Top Notes
Lemon
Bergamot
Heart Notes
Labdanum
Bourbon vanilla
Base Notes
Sandalwood
Patchouli
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Notes03/06/2022
Xanthon
17 Reviews
Xanthon
5
Does this one make younger Polge the new wizard?
Animalic? A bit!
Majestic? Maybe!
Amber? Kind of!
Unisex? No doubt!
Elegant? For sure!
Lasts? Forever!
Brief:
A wonderful pick-me-up animalic opening which subsides in a few minutes, never failing to put a smile on my face. Then, as most people call it, labdanum stays forever in an elegant way, hugely presentable.
My thoughts: (with a slight focus on Chanel as a brand)
The first time I sniffed Le lion, all my memories of (hindi) Oud conjured up, which is too inaccessible to be used even for Le exclusif's line. Frederic Malle tried it and is selling oud-based perfume (The Night) at about 5 times the price of this Chanel. Then, there is that uncontrollable barnyard aspect in oud oil, that basis your skin chemistry can make you either repulsive or adorable. While oud is hugely popular in Arab markets, it's unfamiliar to Western noses. And, for the lack of any better association, it reminds of an unpleasant fecal smell. The fun stops here! Now, the wizardry is to replicate a similar smell while tackling challenges of being prohibitively expensive, unpleasant associations, and subjective effect.
Now, Chanel is a brand that keeps things in a certain style - LUXURY. Primarily, the sense of luxury is abstract, and in today's fragrance market, perhaps, Chanel has the monopoly on this word, maybe along with Dior. (Yes, there are many other Niche players, but I don't suppose most people who live luxury lifestyle are perfume enthusiasts. They probably wear Gucci, or Dior, drive Masseratis, or Bentleys, and prefer Chanel or Jo Malone (sad I know!) as perfume).
What Chanel does brilliantly is serving up the newly innovated or even old fragrance styles in a highly presentable unique Chanel way. Case-in-point: Coromandel (a Borne 1834 in Chanel's interpretation), Eau de Cologne (a cologne to end all), Sycomore (a reinterpretation of Timbuktu or even Guerlain Vetiver). Not to say, Chanel does not innovate. Perhaps, No 5 is a famously towering masterpiece, which arguably built Chanel style. Others can be Pour monsieur (reference masculine Chypre), Cuir de Russie (a leather in an elegant Chanel way), or even Bois des Iles (a take on Sandalwood and by the way, Egoiste is spicier version which I much prefer over BdI). This list is also not short!
Famously, Sheldrake made Ambre Sultan, an Amber to end all others. And, as is the case with the Niche industry, the products are mostly experimental, which basis the level of artistry of the perfumer can be masterpieces. But from the market perspective, it commands a very small part of the market namely enthusiasts, who love the perfume in its truest form rather than as an accessory.
Coming to Le Lion, this seems like an attempt to create an amber in the Chanel way. But to my amateur nose, it also is not far from oud but in a presentable form for the western world. Either way, it is beautiful.
If you look at how the BIG ones in Le exclusifs have faired over the years. It's easy to see that Cuir de Russie has proven as a perennial charmer in any form. Coromandel or even Sycomore, while comparatively recent releases, has sustained market interest in their short 15 years of existence and could claim the mighty title of classic masterpieces some day.
Does it belong to the league of Chanel towering masterpieces?
While the world was split at the time of the launch of Le lion, now, the market is on the verge of a verdict. Chanel is pushing Le Lion strongly in the market, but does it lack the charisma of the top contender in the niche market? In sad words, even with Chanel's unmistakable elegance, maybe. As a personal preference, I find it charming than most other offerings in the line!
Now to Mr. Polge (junior), undoubtedly a master perfumer of great talent, with his groundbreaking fragrance Dior Homme in 2005 and many others in the mass market, Le exclusifs is a special range, please don't overcrowd it. Bring more like CdR, EdC, or massively popular Sycomore, and Coromandel! Charm of the Boy was short lived, and Le Lion might be other dud in the market. There is no question, it is undoubtedly tremendously hard to build masterpieces. Let's keep this line neat and long-term. People love Chanel because too many choices are never fun!
Majestic? Maybe!
Amber? Kind of!
Unisex? No doubt!
Elegant? For sure!
Lasts? Forever!
Brief:
A wonderful pick-me-up animalic opening which subsides in a few minutes, never failing to put a smile on my face. Then, as most people call it, labdanum stays forever in an elegant way, hugely presentable.
My thoughts: (with a slight focus on Chanel as a brand)
The first time I sniffed Le lion, all my memories of (hindi) Oud conjured up, which is too inaccessible to be used even for Le exclusif's line. Frederic Malle tried it and is selling oud-based perfume (The Night) at about 5 times the price of this Chanel. Then, there is that uncontrollable barnyard aspect in oud oil, that basis your skin chemistry can make you either repulsive or adorable. While oud is hugely popular in Arab markets, it's unfamiliar to Western noses. And, for the lack of any better association, it reminds of an unpleasant fecal smell. The fun stops here! Now, the wizardry is to replicate a similar smell while tackling challenges of being prohibitively expensive, unpleasant associations, and subjective effect.
Now, Chanel is a brand that keeps things in a certain style - LUXURY. Primarily, the sense of luxury is abstract, and in today's fragrance market, perhaps, Chanel has the monopoly on this word, maybe along with Dior. (Yes, there are many other Niche players, but I don't suppose most people who live luxury lifestyle are perfume enthusiasts. They probably wear Gucci, or Dior, drive Masseratis, or Bentleys, and prefer Chanel or Jo Malone (sad I know!) as perfume).
What Chanel does brilliantly is serving up the newly innovated or even old fragrance styles in a highly presentable unique Chanel way. Case-in-point: Coromandel (a Borne 1834 in Chanel's interpretation), Eau de Cologne (a cologne to end all), Sycomore (a reinterpretation of Timbuktu or even Guerlain Vetiver). Not to say, Chanel does not innovate. Perhaps, No 5 is a famously towering masterpiece, which arguably built Chanel style. Others can be Pour monsieur (reference masculine Chypre), Cuir de Russie (a leather in an elegant Chanel way), or even Bois des Iles (a take on Sandalwood and by the way, Egoiste is spicier version which I much prefer over BdI). This list is also not short!
Famously, Sheldrake made Ambre Sultan, an Amber to end all others. And, as is the case with the Niche industry, the products are mostly experimental, which basis the level of artistry of the perfumer can be masterpieces. But from the market perspective, it commands a very small part of the market namely enthusiasts, who love the perfume in its truest form rather than as an accessory.
Coming to Le Lion, this seems like an attempt to create an amber in the Chanel way. But to my amateur nose, it also is not far from oud but in a presentable form for the western world. Either way, it is beautiful.
If you look at how the BIG ones in Le exclusifs have faired over the years. It's easy to see that Cuir de Russie has proven as a perennial charmer in any form. Coromandel or even Sycomore, while comparatively recent releases, has sustained market interest in their short 15 years of existence and could claim the mighty title of classic masterpieces some day.
Does it belong to the league of Chanel towering masterpieces?
While the world was split at the time of the launch of Le lion, now, the market is on the verge of a verdict. Chanel is pushing Le Lion strongly in the market, but does it lack the charisma of the top contender in the niche market? In sad words, even with Chanel's unmistakable elegance, maybe. As a personal preference, I find it charming than most other offerings in the line!
Now to Mr. Polge (junior), undoubtedly a master perfumer of great talent, with his groundbreaking fragrance Dior Homme in 2005 and many others in the mass market, Le exclusifs is a special range, please don't overcrowd it. Bring more like CdR, EdC, or massively popular Sycomore, and Coromandel! Charm of the Boy was short lived, and Le Lion might be other dud in the market. There is no question, it is undoubtedly tremendously hard to build masterpieces. Let's keep this line neat and long-term. People love Chanel because too many choices are never fun!
2 Replies
SmellGoodGuy
Xanthon
BertolucciK
MariaS
Estbienla
Jbl775
MrKara
Ka3n
Marabunta
MrLimuzin
