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01/21/2021
LadyLuxifer
12 Reviews
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LadyLuxifer
Top Review
15
Invisible harmony
Raphaël Haury was born and raised in Grasse, the son of a perfumer. He studied at the Ecole de Parfumerie de Charabot in Grasse.
It is less known that he founded the niche perfume brand "06130" together with Jacques Chabert (known among other things for the creations for the houses Tom Daxon, Atelier Flou and Zéro Six Cent-Trente) in 2003. After all, Raphaël comes from this city, the capital of perfumery, and therefore inherited a sense of beauty, refinement and a special sensitivity for aromas.
In 2007, Raphaël founded his own company "Perfum.com".
Raphaël Haury not only worked on perfumes for 06130, but also created fragrances for other major brands, predominantly for the Cofinluxe/Cofci company brands.
Cofinluxe - originally Cofci - was founded in 1976 by Jean-Pierre Grivory and is a French family and independent company based in Paris, whose brands have been represented in more than 100 countries for 40 years. Cofinluxe now distributes perfumes from brands such as Charriol, Barthet, Love Love, Parfums Café and Dali Haute Parfumerie. Raphaël Haury was responsible for three creations from Dali Haute Parfumerie's Fabulous Collection in 2017, namely "Fabulous Bukhara", "Fabulous Korynthia" and "Fabulous Srinagar", with Srinagar being the best of the trio in my opinion.
The creations of the handsome, smart Raphaël didn't really reach me though, it wasn't the great love, more like a fleeting acquaintance between the two of us.
But it became love!
Raphaël enchanted me with a leather creation, his "Royal Leather", composed for the Charriol company. I was blown away.
Perhaps it's not unimportant to point out that for me, Ernest Beaux's "Cuir de Russie" from the house of Chanel, Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather, and Roja's Great Britain are "the big three," a trinity of sorts, leather chords dominating like no other of the many leathery fragrance creations out there. Of course, there are countless leather scents, but the three mentioned above deeply trigger me.
The Trio Infernale, the three daredevils are well known, everyone knows them, the sly boys just...one more fatal than the other. Raphaël was like the reserved but charismatic boy next door, who hid much more beauty and character in himself than his shy exterior and defensive nature wanted to reveal a priori. Ah, this Raphaël, he was so sensual and warm, I couldn't resist him. He conquered me quietly, very subtly...until one day I realized I couldn't be without him.
The fragrance notes listed are not exhaustive, that's for sure. I firmly believe that both birch and davana were used in this composition. The fragrance literally lives on these components.
Royal Leather starts pleasantly restrained, harmoniously spicy-leathery. If you compare Royal Leather start with the "Big Three", Tuscan Leather is very modern, berry and initially least a leather fragrance. Roja's Great Britain is the bridge between the XXth and XXIth centuries, neatly spicy, dominantly leathery-woody. The Cuir de Russie Vintage version is a real leather scent, super potent from the start, with the charisma of the undead Vlad III Draculea, a prince in fact.
Raphaël doesn't need to show off. Somehow, he's still the little big boy who doesn't take life too seriously. It's a dominance of playful tenderness. Royal Leather reminds me of the hypnotic voice of Peter Murphy. The fragrance starts with a subtle combination of delicate floral tones, very delicately paired with the scent of various dried fruits. The listed spices are more in the background. Everything is like wrapped in the finest posh leather that feels like second skin and shimmers brown, like the color of mother earth. This deep color helps ground me, connects me to nature, helps me in some inexplicable way experience support and security, healing and care. Already here I perceive something warm and sweetly exotic. Raphaël Haury has succeeded in creating a grandly beautiful leather scent with Royal Leather. His composition is not overloaded with sweetness, over-spiced or omnipotent. What is striking, Raphaël plays with opposites and subtly embraces the wearer with these contrasting olfactory experience to connect his creation with the wearer thereby ultimately to a harmonious unity.
The fragrance loses this tension at no time or even becomes dissonant. The fragrance development takes place almost in bent, like an invisible harmony. I feel like I'm being haunted by a good spirit. Royal Leather is a leather fragrance like no other. With this creation, Raphaël Haury has succeeded in a very big hit.
However, we know that truly great love stories don't have happy endings. They never end. The enchanting fragrance was discontinued in 2019.
HICC, is known among perfume lovers as Lyral; it has a soft floral scent (reminiscent of lily of the valley, cyclamen, and a bit of lilac) with subtle aldehydic and woody nuances. Officially, it was said that as of August 23, 2019, cosmetics containing Lyral will no longer be allowed on the market. They decided against reformulating RL at Cofinluxe and put the creation "Fabulous Mandawa" in the race in place of Royal Leather. I was very surprised that it was Michel Almairac who was responsible for the umpteenth Tuscan Leather clone, which has become so inconsequential that it was not worth it to me to test said fragrance a second time.
Now I'm on the hunt for the last few copies of Royal Leather. The search is turning out to be much more difficult than I thought. There are only a few left, so it's a real rarity. Dear Aquamonza was kind enough to sell me a 10 ml bottling. I appreciate that very much. Here again a thousand thanks for that.
What makes Royal Leather so special is its microtonal aura and well-tempered composition. The fragrance is neither intrusive nor boring. This leather fragrance simply fits like a second skin.
I will not give up the search. You're out there somewhere, I just haven't found you yet. Not yet.
It is less known that he founded the niche perfume brand "06130" together with Jacques Chabert (known among other things for the creations for the houses Tom Daxon, Atelier Flou and Zéro Six Cent-Trente) in 2003. After all, Raphaël comes from this city, the capital of perfumery, and therefore inherited a sense of beauty, refinement and a special sensitivity for aromas.
In 2007, Raphaël founded his own company "Perfum.com".
Raphaël Haury not only worked on perfumes for 06130, but also created fragrances for other major brands, predominantly for the Cofinluxe/Cofci company brands.
Cofinluxe - originally Cofci - was founded in 1976 by Jean-Pierre Grivory and is a French family and independent company based in Paris, whose brands have been represented in more than 100 countries for 40 years. Cofinluxe now distributes perfumes from brands such as Charriol, Barthet, Love Love, Parfums Café and Dali Haute Parfumerie. Raphaël Haury was responsible for three creations from Dali Haute Parfumerie's Fabulous Collection in 2017, namely "Fabulous Bukhara", "Fabulous Korynthia" and "Fabulous Srinagar", with Srinagar being the best of the trio in my opinion.
The creations of the handsome, smart Raphaël didn't really reach me though, it wasn't the great love, more like a fleeting acquaintance between the two of us.
But it became love!
Raphaël enchanted me with a leather creation, his "Royal Leather", composed for the Charriol company. I was blown away.
Perhaps it's not unimportant to point out that for me, Ernest Beaux's "Cuir de Russie" from the house of Chanel, Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather, and Roja's Great Britain are "the big three," a trinity of sorts, leather chords dominating like no other of the many leathery fragrance creations out there. Of course, there are countless leather scents, but the three mentioned above deeply trigger me.
The Trio Infernale, the three daredevils are well known, everyone knows them, the sly boys just...one more fatal than the other. Raphaël was like the reserved but charismatic boy next door, who hid much more beauty and character in himself than his shy exterior and defensive nature wanted to reveal a priori. Ah, this Raphaël, he was so sensual and warm, I couldn't resist him. He conquered me quietly, very subtly...until one day I realized I couldn't be without him.
The fragrance notes listed are not exhaustive, that's for sure. I firmly believe that both birch and davana were used in this composition. The fragrance literally lives on these components.
Royal Leather starts pleasantly restrained, harmoniously spicy-leathery. If you compare Royal Leather start with the "Big Three", Tuscan Leather is very modern, berry and initially least a leather fragrance. Roja's Great Britain is the bridge between the XXth and XXIth centuries, neatly spicy, dominantly leathery-woody. The Cuir de Russie Vintage version is a real leather scent, super potent from the start, with the charisma of the undead Vlad III Draculea, a prince in fact.
Raphaël doesn't need to show off. Somehow, he's still the little big boy who doesn't take life too seriously. It's a dominance of playful tenderness. Royal Leather reminds me of the hypnotic voice of Peter Murphy. The fragrance starts with a subtle combination of delicate floral tones, very delicately paired with the scent of various dried fruits. The listed spices are more in the background. Everything is like wrapped in the finest posh leather that feels like second skin and shimmers brown, like the color of mother earth. This deep color helps ground me, connects me to nature, helps me in some inexplicable way experience support and security, healing and care. Already here I perceive something warm and sweetly exotic. Raphaël Haury has succeeded in creating a grandly beautiful leather scent with Royal Leather. His composition is not overloaded with sweetness, over-spiced or omnipotent. What is striking, Raphaël plays with opposites and subtly embraces the wearer with these contrasting olfactory experience to connect his creation with the wearer thereby ultimately to a harmonious unity.
The fragrance loses this tension at no time or even becomes dissonant. The fragrance development takes place almost in bent, like an invisible harmony. I feel like I'm being haunted by a good spirit. Royal Leather is a leather fragrance like no other. With this creation, Raphaël Haury has succeeded in a very big hit.
However, we know that truly great love stories don't have happy endings. They never end. The enchanting fragrance was discontinued in 2019.
HICC, is known among perfume lovers as Lyral; it has a soft floral scent (reminiscent of lily of the valley, cyclamen, and a bit of lilac) with subtle aldehydic and woody nuances. Officially, it was said that as of August 23, 2019, cosmetics containing Lyral will no longer be allowed on the market. They decided against reformulating RL at Cofinluxe and put the creation "Fabulous Mandawa" in the race in place of Royal Leather. I was very surprised that it was Michel Almairac who was responsible for the umpteenth Tuscan Leather clone, which has become so inconsequential that it was not worth it to me to test said fragrance a second time.
Now I'm on the hunt for the last few copies of Royal Leather. The search is turning out to be much more difficult than I thought. There are only a few left, so it's a real rarity. Dear Aquamonza was kind enough to sell me a 10 ml bottling. I appreciate that very much. Here again a thousand thanks for that.
What makes Royal Leather so special is its microtonal aura and well-tempered composition. The fragrance is neither intrusive nor boring. This leather fragrance simply fits like a second skin.
I will not give up the search. You're out there somewhere, I just haven't found you yet. Not yet.
10 Comments
Hermesh
