Diorella

Eau de Toilette (1972)
Diorella (Eau de Toilette) by Dior
Flacon Design: Serge Mansau
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8.1 / 10     148 RatingsRatingsRatings
Diorella (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Dior for women and was released in 1972. The scent is chypre-flowery. It is being marketed by LVMH.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBasil, Bergamot, Green notes, Melon, Lemon
Heart Notes Heart NotesCyclamen, Carnation, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Peach, Rose
Base Notes Base NotesOakmoss, Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver

Ratings

Scent

8.1 (148 Ratings)

Longevity

7.1 (92 Ratings)

Sillage

6.2 (87 Ratings)

Bottle

7.6 (94 Ratings)
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 11.03.2017

Interesting Facts

This fragrance was reformulated in 2009 by François Demachy according to IFRA guidelines. Since then it is part of the collection "Les Creations de Monsieur Dior".

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Reviews

Very helpful Review    5 Awards
roudnitska's magnum opus
You know when you are smelling a Roudnitska fragrance. First of all they smell very French, oh so classical, but in a very modern way. It’s no coincidence that his career rose in tandem with Christian Dior, whose ‘New Look’ re-invented French fashion to suit a new ethic of modern chic elegance that provided Roudnitska with a tabula rasa in which to develop and perfect his signature style. There is a duality, a symbiotic, perfectly balanced dance of light & darkness, ephemeral & eternal, whimsy & serious, beauty & (slightly) grotesque. Diorama, Eau Fraiche, Diorissimo (I could write a full essay on THAT one – what a blast to wear!), Diorling, the totemic men’s Eau Sauvage all managed to incorporate this idiosyncratic approach, leading to what I consider the greatest perfume ever: Diorella.

Launched in 1972, Diorella conveys perfectly the spirit of The Age of Aquarius. Gender lines were becoming blurred, fashion was democratised and casual, the love was free, and the scene definitely groovy, baby. Elegance was still in style but it didn’t take itself so seriously. Roudnitska nailed this in a bottle.

(I must stress that throughout, I am considering the vintage version of Diorella, which maintained its essential perfection until the late nineties. The current stuff – aka Diorellish - ain’t bad, and is essentially a robust cologne with a fruity hue. But it has gone the way of most reformulated Diors: not worth discussing, especially in comparison to their former glories. )

Diorella is a chypre, a citric, fruity chypre. It hits with a blast of neroli, lemon and bergamot that acts simply as the ‘gateway’ to its real substance: honeysuckle, ‘fruit’ and hedione. The last element was introduced to the world by Roudnitska in Eau Sauvage a few years before Diorella, though he is much more generous with it in the latter. Hedione gives both their trademark jasmine insinuation, a sort of plastic floral character that proved that synthetics could be every bit as convincing as naturals in the right hands.

Where Diorella improves massively over Eau Sauvage is in its shameless sensuousness. Where ES is quite dry and astringent , Diorella holds you close in a casually warm embrace. There is very little bottom end in ES while Diorella always lets you know that this stuff is DEEP, the moss always lurking in the nether regions providing a touch of menace and this is what makes it such a comfortable wear for men. Some have likened Diorella as “Eau Sauvage with a drop of peach”, but the fruit accord here is a whole basket of summer fruit just arriving at its sell by date; not quite rotting, but certainly not fresh.
What florals there are present remain quite opaque and nebulous throughout. The most noticeable beyond the jasmine/hedione zone is of course honeysuckle. This rather underused floral gives Diorella a wonderful languid, lazy sultriness that really catapults this stuff into the sublime. Finally, I detect a firm note of hawthorne, which provides tartness needed to balance all the inferences of decay. Bloody genius, if you ask me.

Edmond Roudnitska showed the way toward contemporary perfumery by bridging the classical elements of French perfumery with modern aromachemicals and the required originality to make it all feel timeless. I see Kurkjian and Duchaufour as among his obvious heirs on this level. Though Diorella feels like the seventies, it is solidly transcendent of time, as all masterpieces are sui generis. There are a few other fragrances that sit on this Olympian perch, but no other can speak so numinously of true perfection like Diorella.
Bottle 10.0/10
Sillage 7.5/10
Longevity 7.5/10
Scent 9.0/10
Helpful Review    3 Awards
The truth about Cinderella
In the kingdom Dior used to live a nice girl, called "Cinderella".
She was a poor afflicted girl who was tormented and exploited by stepmother and stepsisters.
The butler of the house Mr Edmond and his charming Mrs. Roudnitska, had pity on the little poor girl and they decided to help her. A happy chance should release her soon from this plight, because king Dior gave a banquet to which all marriageable maidens were invited, so that the prince who was known as quite "sauvage" for himself may search a bride among them.
Cinderella should absolutely take part in the ball and conquer the heart of the prince.
But to it could come in addition, it required first of all of a few basic-recumbent changes, because so dirtily and ragged as Cinderella was, she could on no account show up to court. Moreover, she also lacked fine manners and etiquette.
Edmond prepared Cinderella a hot bath with fine herbs and bergamot and Roudnitska then she anointed with a fine oil from fruits.
Because Cinderellas dress was torn by the sisters, as everybody knows, the butler and his wife, weaved to her fast a dress of fresh flowers from the garden. So gracefully and so nicely, as no evening gown of the best tailor could have been. As a jewellery she carried a chain from jasmine blossoms.
Cinderella looked wonderfull and she smelt really majestically as it was due only to one princess.
Finally she learnt of Edmond a few more court rules and manners, practiced with Roudnitska the smooth way on the Oakmoss and danced already after a short time a classical Vetiver.
To the beginning of the banquet our nice Cinderella rode on a musk-ox to the castle where she crept by the cellar to the ballroom.
All rules of rank and nobility were represented, beauties assembled from all four corners of the earth round the attractive and marriage-willing prince. However, when Cinderella entered the hall, it became quiet and everybody looked only at her. With her beauty and the charming smell which surrounded them, she had pulled them all in her spell, also the prince. He took her tender hand and danced the whole night away with her.
The big event, the wedding of the both, was soon celebrated in the whole kingdom. Cinderella became Diorella and they happily lived together.
Their daughter who has already arisen, in the meantime is called, by the way, also Diorella. She has the beauty of her mother (whom I got never to know, unfortunately) inherited, however, should be substantially more tiny. Well, to the charm of mummy she probably does not come after..... but, nevertheless, I find her simply charming!
~
Fact is -
about this wonderful smell it was written already so much that I have simply permitted sometimes a little artistic freedom to myself and give a small fairy tale to the best.
However, I must admit that I am in the possession of the new version of this scent and do not know the "old one"! The new version is still absolute after my taste; up-to-date with this air of inimitable classical period we find again in the old Diors.
I would classify this smell as a seasonal allrounder and basically he is able to carry to every opportunity. .
The spicy lemon prelude reminds me a little of orange peels on the stove, no more quite freshly and, nevertheless, exiting. The flower splendour in the heart always keeps to themselves a slightly bitter note which allows to work this smell though very femininely, however, also seriously and adult.
The base is a dream, smoothly, nobly and velvety dark green.
~
Should I be sad now because I might not get to know the original, the mother of the young Diorella, anymore? No! Since it tyres me only to mourn over and over again past,I´m simply glad about the fact that her successor smells wonderfully on me!
Bottle 7.5/10
Sillage 5.0/10
Longevity 5.0/10
Scent 10.0/10
Very helpful Review    1 Award
Roudnitska's BEST
Much has been said about Diorella, so I'll be very brief: It's one of the nicest perfumes ever. Roudnitska said it was his best, proudest creation and I agree with him. So French, so fresh, so vibrant! Even the recent reformulation could not destroy much of Diorella's magic. Adorable.
jtd
Greatly helpful Review    9 Awards
No words.
It’s so easy to liken Diorella to other perfumes because it has so many points of obvious comparison: fruity chypres, citrus chypres, green chypres, Roudnitska classics, dirty jasmines, 1970s liberated perfumes. Sometimes I feel that relying on comparison is a cop-out. As if I can’t be creative enough on my own to capture what I mean. In this case, though, the use of comparison simply points to how rich a composition Diorella is, and the fact that it is the standard-bearer in the above categories.

OK. So a few of the comparisons:
Where Eau Sauvage is crisp, starched and shimmering, Diorella is tantalizing and sultry. There is also a cologne-like aspect to Diorella (esp. as in Eau d’Hermès), but if a cologne is refreshing and tonic, Diorella is like a lot of cologne after a few drinks. Diorella smells like Pour Monsieur sprayed on a sweaty body. Ms. Diorella makes the uptight Miss Chanel 19 see red every time they meet. (And, don’t ask me why, but this is the one that captures it for me.) Chanel Cristalle has an infrequently-used, symmetrical smile like a strand of pearls with canines. Diorella shows that Lauren Hutton, gap-toothed smile with every frequent laugh.

Diorella combines the best of all the categories that I love. Green and dry. Sinister fruit. Gorgeous color against mossy darkness. Bitterness with flavor. There are more well-struck balances in this perfume than you might find in another house’s entire line. The striking set of accords set in motion at the start remains in place from its almost tipsy-drunk start through its tart-green heart to its mossy-woody base. Diorella slides back-and-forth between its fruity, mossy, floral and woody tendencies, but remains specific and identifiable at all times. (Caveat. Perfumes change all the time, and chypres are endangered. The Diorella edt I know was bought in 2005.)

We perfume fans (freaks) often list favorites, the one we’d take to prison or a deserted island, the one we’d grab from a burning house. I’ve listed Rabanne’s Metal in my theoretical top 5. I’ve said Givenchy’s Insensé is my favorite in my collection. Both true, but if I could have only one perfume, Diorella would be my easy choice.
Sillage 7.5/10
Longevity 5.0/10
Scent 8.0/10
4 Awards
Androgynous Gender Bender
Burn your bra and wear DIORELLA. Unless you happen to be 36C, in which case I highly recommend that you keep the bra and wear DIORELLA. In any case, whatever your beliefs about appropriate displays of women's liberation might be, I encourage all of you, men and women alike, to wear DIORELLA!

This 1970 creation opens aromatically and entirely unisex. Lots of lemon, lots of basil, lots of other greenness as well. No one can convince me that this is not every bit as suited for a man as a woman. Refreshing, clean, invigorating, DIORELLA lies at the extreme end of the chypre spectrum (at the other end of which are found lots of shadows and fog...) and is a true gender-bender fragrance, eventually winding up in a subtle, lightly floralized vetiver drydown, which could be interpreted as feminine, but decidedly not in the pink lipstick, vanilla sugar, bouquet of roses way.
Sillage 5.0/10
Longevity 7.5/10
Scent 8.0/10
Very helpful Review    2 Awards
Fresh green splendor
Diorella is a very classic scent, you'd be hard pressed to find anything of this calibre in modern fragrances.

Typical of most chypres, Diorella opens with a citrusy and refreshing burst of Sicilian lemon and bergamot. Adding to the citrus is an interesting blend of green notes and basil which gives this fragrance a herbaceous like quality.

Despite this rather sharp and sour opening, Diorella is extremely feminine and balanced.

The top notes transcend delicately into the heart which is mostly subtle, green and slightly sweet honeysuckle, rose, jasmine and peach. After a while the heart takes on a clean and soapy quality which is a little similar to Miss Dior.

Rounding off this scent is the drydown which is rich, animalistic and woodsy. A masterpiece in my opinion.

Upon your first encounter with this fragrance it may not be love at first sniff, but like so many other Dior fragrances it will certainly grow on you. It's on my wishlist.

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