The "Wheel of Time" is a series of fantasy novels by American author Robert Jordan, with Brandon Sanderson as the co-author of the last three books. The series draws on many European and Asian mythology elements, most notably the cyclical nature of time found in Buddhism and Hinduism, the metaphysical concepts of balance and duality, and the respect for wildlife found in Taoism. At the dawn of time, a deity known as the Creator forged the universe and the Wheel of Time, spinning the Pattern of Ages using the lives of men and women as its threads. The Wheel has seven spokes, each representing an era, and is rotated by the One Power, which flows from the True Source. The One Power divides into male and female halves, saidin and saidar, who work in opposition and unison to lead the Wheel. Humans who can use their power are channelers; the leading channelers in books is called Aes Sedai or "Servants of All" in the Ancient Language.
Why did I mention the novel "The Wheel of Time"? Because it's old school but timeless. The initial explosion that exudes from this opulent perfume reminds me of the plot and the places described in that novel, a series that I am watching these days on TV. The Aromatic Elixir is like the fluid that passes through the channelers. I could imagine the Aes Sedai leaving such a sillage when they pass by someone. The White Tower where they reside must smell of this essence. It perfectly combines floral and dry powdery notes with warm woody and balsamic accords. All I can say is that it's a sight: old school with soapy aldehydes, notes of jasmine and indolic white flowers, wonderfully moist patchouli, animal civet, moss and lots of strength. Few compositions match the Aromatic Elixir in both opulence and sensuality. It is like a Venetian red potion, ripe, intoxicating, and represents its essential soul. Chypre expertly blended by inserting all the nuances that nature offers, from flowers to aromas, from spices to woods.
First of all, Aromatic Elixir is a chypre, all too austere. It is dry and green. I checked the nose behind this gem, it is Bernard Chant, and I realised that he is also the Creator of other masterpieces such as
Aramis 900 Eau de Cologne,
Cabochard (1959) Parfum,
Cinnabar (1978) Eau de Parfum, and
Halston Eau de Toilette. Not surprisingly, all those classic old school fragrances have different similarities from the decade they were born; you recognise the hand and genius of the Creator. The scent unfolds with biting, deep and bitter accords of dried dark flowers, aromatic herbs and a plethora of aldehydes. There is a kind of intoxication, bitter, dark and mystical as if we let the delicate dried chamomile flowers macerate in an alcoholic solution, along with geranium leaves and sage, inside a small rosewood barrel. It is a healing potion reminiscent of Far Eastern medicine. Wow, there are so many aromatic nuances that every time I sniff my pulse, I perceive a different scented herb, sometimes woody and other times medicinal. The coriander leaves are pungent and remind me of soups from Asian restaurants. When aldehydes appear, they raise the opening, and I feel them like the bitter taste of good soap.
The floral heart, dried flowers to be precise, bright and sharp on the head, is released in the embrace of dark pink geranium and sweet ylang-ylang. There is an explosion of colour, with exceptional depth and sweet darkness, the earthiness of patchouli and vetiver blending with floral jasmine and Venetian red carnation. A thick layer of oakmoss covers a heart of jasmine and rose that does not yield at the base. Patchouli is not subdued; it is not modern and clean. It has its medicinal and camphoric obscurity instead. I can get a dusty shade in the background; I feel the presence of the iris root in it. The tango between rose and iris is flawless, albeit a little or no discernible rose.
The animalic base of oakmoss, patchouli, incense and soft musky notes is a whole. There's even a touch of creamy sandalwood between those ambers, dirty, earthy and smoky accords. The whole composition stays cool and dry, with a clean yet earthy exterior quality that reminds me of sun-warmed dry hay. It smells like sex, and I'm not kidding. Balsamic like tiger oil, this fragrance is not transparent but thick; it comforts the nose and the soul. Since I have a recent version, I bet the musky vibe comes from something synthetic as real oakmoss - Evernia prunasti - is now banned.
Aromatic Elixir is like the freezing rain that brings with it the scent of damp earth and mountain nuts for a winter experience that invites you to retreat to an intimate and sensual place. The performances are impeccable; intense persistence and a moderate sillage consistent with the nature of the composition and its ingredients. My advice is that the boys try it too because the sweetness is minimal despite a hefty dose of flowers. It doesn't have the quality of contemporary women's fragrances, and no one could tell you that you smell like a girl. You just smell delicious. Earthy, sophisticated, complex and appropriate as a modern men's fragrance. To conclude, if you have come across the television series "The Wheel of Time" in programming in recent months and have had the opportunity to smell this perfume, you will surely understand the reason for my association.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since April 2021.
-Elysium