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Notes08/28/2020
WildGardener
133 Reviews
WildGardener
2
Perfume - myrrh's Reserve
Perfumer's Reserve was a short run flanker released on the 40th anniversary of that great classic Aromatics Elixir. By giving it a top to toe makeover the structure has been brought into line with modern trends while at the same remaining true to the spirit of the original.
The most fundamental change is a new foundation of myrrh in the base. This only goes part of the way to replacing the coarse grungy feel of the patchouli - which is such an important part of the original - and as a result the structure is smoother, lighter and more legible. As well as a reduction in patchouli, the chamomile - which has a similar coarse but drier feel - has also been scaled back. Rose, which is complemented so well by patchouli, is here partly replaced by white flowers - which are backed up by a dry powdery accord.
The same process has been applied to the higher end of the profile. Although coriander remains in a lead role, the addition of a strange plasticky note and the presence of myrrh - which are both evident at the start - means Perfumer's Reserve is paler toned and clearer but it has less of the distinctive weirdness of the original. Both versions have a similar aromatic top note running through them but P'sR has largely dropped the soapy overtone found in AE.
The general effect of these changes is to overhaul the structure of patchouli - chamomile - coriander - rose and make it more legible. Throwing out a lot of the excess baggage has stripped the profile down and it feels more modern as a result, but like restoring an old painting, stripping away the crud may also strip out the character.
If P'sR feels a little anodyne when compared with the original (despite the myrrh and the odd plasticky note) it still preserves something of the old mystique. This is a valid update of an old favourite which gave it a new (if sadly limited) lease of life.
The other notable thing about P'sR is it was only available as a extrait, with all the soft force which that brings. It was a nice move to bring AE back in a new shape and a rarely seen concentration, and it's appropriate that a homage to a great classic should appear in classic form.
Perfumer's Reserve is good stuff, especially in the first couple of hours. Fans of Aromatics Elixir - at least those open to a new rendition of the old chestnut - would probably love this, if only they could get their noses on it...
The most fundamental change is a new foundation of myrrh in the base. This only goes part of the way to replacing the coarse grungy feel of the patchouli - which is such an important part of the original - and as a result the structure is smoother, lighter and more legible. As well as a reduction in patchouli, the chamomile - which has a similar coarse but drier feel - has also been scaled back. Rose, which is complemented so well by patchouli, is here partly replaced by white flowers - which are backed up by a dry powdery accord.
The same process has been applied to the higher end of the profile. Although coriander remains in a lead role, the addition of a strange plasticky note and the presence of myrrh - which are both evident at the start - means Perfumer's Reserve is paler toned and clearer but it has less of the distinctive weirdness of the original. Both versions have a similar aromatic top note running through them but P'sR has largely dropped the soapy overtone found in AE.
The general effect of these changes is to overhaul the structure of patchouli - chamomile - coriander - rose and make it more legible. Throwing out a lot of the excess baggage has stripped the profile down and it feels more modern as a result, but like restoring an old painting, stripping away the crud may also strip out the character.
If P'sR feels a little anodyne when compared with the original (despite the myrrh and the odd plasticky note) it still preserves something of the old mystique. This is a valid update of an old favourite which gave it a new (if sadly limited) lease of life.
The other notable thing about P'sR is it was only available as a extrait, with all the soft force which that brings. It was a nice move to bring AE back in a new shape and a rarely seen concentration, and it's appropriate that a homage to a great classic should appear in classic form.
Perfumer's Reserve is good stuff, especially in the first couple of hours. Fans of Aromatics Elixir - at least those open to a new rendition of the old chestnut - would probably love this, if only they could get their noses on it...
