Apicius
4
Dior's Cinderella
No, the Cologne was not reformulated, I was assured at Berlin's luxury department store KaDeWe. I have it on my list for a long time now, also because it stands in the shadow of the Eau de Toilette and the Intense version. If at all it is only available in big stores that can afford a Dior scent bar.
Dior Homme is a wonderful fragrance – an oriental scent for men that has lots of orris root. The famous dry and powdery “lipstick” accord is something you just have to get to know before you die. The latest reformulations, however, were completely in vain from a customer's point of view. They did not improve anything and were only caused – as one can read – by copyright problems. In case of the Intense version, the result is disgusting. I have not looked closely yet at the 2011' Eau de Toilette.
Due to these ongoings, the Cologne Version should get a bit more interest by us. Well, the current leads us into another direction. Whenever there is a release of an Intense or Eau de Parfum version of any decent perfume, there is also immediate interest among the Parfumo users. However, many people do not take Colognes seriously – but why! Colognes and light variants are very often less complicated, more accessible and thus, more wearable. What use is a great but too intense perfume that people buy but do not wear?
For me, Dior Homme is such a case. The original 2005' Eau de Toilette version is grand – maybe the best men's perfume you could get in the medium price segment. Nevertheless, it stays in the drawer. Never I am in the right mood for this dry, powdery and cuddly fragrance. Always other perfumes seem to be more suitable.
Dior Homme Cologne has all the essentials of the 2005' Eau de Toilette – especially the lipstick accord, the dry powder note, the vanillic notes and that appeal of foxy paper. It is not so far away from the original, and occasional customers will not find lots of differences. But nevertheless, Dior Homme Cologne is much more than just the original diluted. It has light citruses in the head note. They lead the Cologne into a somewhat fresher direction. Suddenly, the common classification of an autumn and winter scent becomes questionable. Dior Homme will never be a summer scent, but as a fresh fragrance for spring the Cologne will do.
The citruses in the head note do not last very long – they soon fade away. Only in the heart note I still sense some kind of neroli. With this twist, Dior Homme Cologne breaks out into the direction of the classic Eau de Cologne, but only a little bit! This small twist is enough to provide a transparent and somewhat whafting character. The Cologne is less robust and sturdy than the original – it might appear even a bit more refined.
Dior Homme Cologne is a true Cologne with a limited longevity. After the neroli note is gone, the whole scent fades away after about two hours. If the overall result is so good as it is here, this is okay for me. It might make sense to by a pocket flacon and a miniature funnel – so one can have fun with this beautiful Cologne all day long.
Yes, the Cologne indeed is more accessible than the original, and it is the answer to at least my reservations. But you will not like it if you do not also like the original. Dior Homme Cologne is quite near the same style as the original version – it is neither a citrus bomb, nor full of fresh notes. Possible, that it will enter my collection one day.