Dioressence (1969) Eau de Toilette

Dioressence (Eau de Toilette) by Dior / Christian Dior
Bottle Design: Dior
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Dioressence (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Dior / Christian Dior for women and was released in 1969. The scent is chypre-floral. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by LVMH.

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Perfumer

Guy Robert

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesAldehydes, Bergamot, Fruity notes, Green notes, Orange
Heart Notes Heart NotesGeranium, Orris root, Jasmine, Carnation, Rose, Tuberose, Violet, Ylang-ylang, Cinnamon
Base Notes Base NotesBenzoin, Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli, Styrax, Vanilla, Vetiver

Ratings

Scent

8.4 (175 Ratings)

Longevity

8.1 (121 Ratings)

Sillage

7.1 (123 Ratings)

Bottle

7.9 (120 Ratings)
Submitted by Sani, last update on 12.11.2019

Interesting Facts

This fragrance was reformulated in 2009 by François Demachy according to IFRA guidelines. Since then it is part of the collection "Les Creations de Monsieur Dior".

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Reviews

7.0 6.0 8.0 8.0/10
Serenissima

0 Reviews
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Serenissima
Serenissima
Very helpful Review    11
the "substitute"
1974 - Christmas party in the house of my boss at that time: a dream of a house in Berlin-Lichtenrade; inside much more impressive than one would expect from the outside.
A large, almost luxurious living area with open sliding doors and French windows to the terrace; the dining room with elegantly divided glass door to the spacious hallway, the table exquisite and extremely tastefully laid: the young woman I was then marveled for the first time in her life at this luxury paired with beauty!
Today I know: it was more appearance than being! But that doesn't matter in memories anyway.
I will still see this couple, glamorous by West Berlin standards, in its tasteful rooms.

And of course after the opulent dinner with several courses and a lot of alcohol we got our Christmas presents from the boss. As a clever man he had asked before about our wishes.
Knowing that his very special wife was employed in one of the perfumeries of the former boxer Bubi Scholz, I had put "Diorissimo" on my wish list. (I already reported at a suitable place.)
This noble lily of the valley of Christian Dior would have fit to me dainty doll and my age at that time just still so!
How big was my disappointment when I unpacked the dark blue-black cloudy cardboard from "Dioressence" "Diorissimo" didn't exist, so this "substitute" came to me. (Yes, I "can" also football!)

Today I know that I was simply too young for this ladylike and so magical scent: this "substitute" was more than a trace too powerful for me!
Of course I wore "Dioressence": I could show off so wonderfully with this noble something!
Who at my age had such a choice?
Only we were never happy together; "Dioressence" always remained the "second choice"!
Not without reason I discovered the enchanting "Blue Grass" for me a few months later.
(That I overloaded this delicate fragrance angel with "Musk-Oil" - fresh from the English market and still quite rare in Germany in this concentration - is another story. I was just then "on the hunt: "Halali!")

Years later a second chance of living together arose, which I naturally seized.
A friend left me her remaining bottle; it was still the unreformulated version.
(At that time one did not even know this word!)
This was the result of a conversation last night, after reading the wonderful commentary that Ttfortwo gave to the "Esprit de Parfum" of this fragrance goddess as a kind of declaration of love.

I already loved aldehydes at that time and in the impressive accompaniment of the Mediterranean seeming top note they could develop into great radiant beauty.
The walk through the flower- and aroma-rich summer garden of the heart note was a little more reserved. Hello, where are you all?
My fish blood did not warm enough to prepare the canvas for this enchanting and eternally feminine ensemble.
Even "Darling" Ylang-Ylang and the warm cinnamon note got stuck in their development.
The special attraction, which constitutes a chypreduft, came with "Dioressence" on my skin only limited to the Geltung.
The girlfriend remembered exactly yesterday; what was almost too much for her, walked with me not on main paths, but rather on side paths through this garden splendour.
Even though oakmoss and patchouli did their best and vanilla, with the addition of a strong dose of Styrax, was still strengthened, we did not become a couple.
Today "Dioressence" reminds me of a half-unpacked package: the wrapping paper was curiously removed, the lid was opened, but ...

A little disappointed I returned the bottle with the remaining scent to my girlfriend, which she had actually given me.
She sprayed a little and with her the full beauty of this refined fragrance developed immediately.
(I almost want to say: This woman who has become a scent grinned at me maliciously!)

We like to bring our memories into the form we like; but here nothing can be bent.
My living together with "Dioressence" was not as harmonious as it could have been both times.
Maybe there was just a hint of disappointment dominating? Deep down in there ...
The first time this lady was a substitute for what she wanted and I was much too young to adorn myself with her according to her demands; later our relationship remained - yes, let's say it clearly!: "hypothermic"!

That's how I and Dioressence feel, like the two royal children: "They couldn't come together..."
10 Replies
8.0 8.0 10.0 10.0/10
Schwälbchen

0 Reviews
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Schwälbchen
Schwälbchen
Greatly helpful Review    14
My green morning
Have I grown for you? You masterpiece?
Liquid silk.
Pigeon netted earth.

May I dare? How will you meet me, receive me?

You greet me stormy, urgent. Slightly medical.
Lively aldehydes want to unfold. A classic waxy note melts with my skin.
Oak moss - green and full I perceive right at the beginning.
But soon the scent calms down. It becomes softer and in the cinnamon-fruity spice I recognize a resemblance to Mitsouko. Sometimes you're green-bright, sometimes earthy-deep or seductively full-bodied. Only Dioressence is so incredibly more. So friendly. A positive aura. Kindly. Tender.
The flowers are a single fabric. Silky flowing. I perceive a tender carnation, only one. The iris root, I suppose, gives Dioressence this incomparable powdery buttery.
Like a dark glow from warm depth, the scent radiates into the base.

The shelf life of 12+ hours is above average and by today's standards extraterrestrial.
The initially strong projection (aldehydes must fly *g*) retreats pleasantly. Despite the two small sprayers in the sample, the scent is clearly perceptible.

*

Sunrise, cold and clear. Dew sparkles on the meadows.
You're coming with me. My green morning.
Blink in the sun. Awakening singing.
You're laughing at me. My green morning.
Splashing murmur. Stone-edged path.
You're going with me. My green morning.

*

At this point, my extraordinary thanks go to SchatzSucher, to whom I owe the generous sample.
Dear Sven, Your good taste is getting creepy to me.
The comment refers to the Vintage EdT.

To all of you, a good, friendly, sunny morning and fragrant day.
Namaste.
10 Replies
8.0 8.0 9.0 9.5/10
Anarlan

0 Reviews
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Anarlan
Anarlan
Greatly helpful Review    35
Distance and seduction
Dioressence belongs to a family of fragrances which, when viewed superficially, has something formal, distant, perhaps nostalgic about it, although I would prefer the term timelessness. Thanks to the generosity of dear Parfuma Antoine and a lucky coincidence, I have recently come into possession of a sample or two of vintage versions of great old Chypres. A wonderful opportunity to make a symbolic knee fall in front of one of the columns of this fragrance family, in this case Dior´s "Dioressence" in the unreformulated version, I suspect from the eighties or the early nineties.
The characteristics of this fragrance family do not seem to fit at all with the currently popular tastes of the mainstream. It is possible that such fragrances will experience their little renaissances again and again when the world of synthetic, sweet, superficial nosecatchers revolves too quickly around you like a fairground carousel.
I count myself, the inclined reader may suspect it, himself to the flock of chypreoncles and aunts. And that had been the case from the very beginning of my enthusiasm for fragrances, without me having the slightest idea of it, and had obviously been put into my cradle - by whomever. My first and eternal fragrance love is a classic Herrenchypre, and many fragrances I appreciate belong in this category.
How can you recognize this family of fragrances, whose name derives from a creation of the same name by Francois Coty in 1917? How can you put into words the characteristics of this family of fragrances for which I have chosen Dioressence as my representative? This was the question that drove me to Parfumo right at the beginning of my time, and I think it takes a different approach than a nomenclatural one to try to understand what constitutes a chypre.
If one looks at the nightly starry sky in a cloudless night, its beauty and the sheer overwhelming of the sight cannot be measured by naming the constellations one sees. The situation is similar with chypres. The components of the citric head, the flowery or herbaceous heart and the mossy-woody base to pray for do not describe the kick in the solar plexus and the delightful rubbing in the nose when you have one in front of you.
Freely associated, I get the following impressions: Chypres are more serious, disagreeable distance keepers. The formal and abstract aspects of the fragrance image are emphasized. They convey the feeling of brittleness and astringency, the timbre in minor rather than major. Some great representatives like Mitsouko have a certain, sometimes almost heartbreaking melancholy, without having a single fragrance component to which one would ascribe this mood per se.
You notice that you are dealing with "perfume", not "smell of something" or a mixture of smells that wants to trace natural or environmental impressions. They are artvoe constructions that lead to an unlikely and surprisingly beautiful impression of otherness, so different from the world around us. Whom colours help: Green and grey tones. If you want to get some impressions of nature: the roughness of moss and lichens when you stroke them. Anyone who needs an association with clothing: Press fold. For cineasts: Film noire. Life phase: Adulthood. Definitely no childhood and no youth.
When combined with other fragrance categories, such as animal notes or oriental spices, very attractive contrasts can result from the relative astringency and distance of a chypre and sensual, erotic opulence of civet, beaver geil and Co..
Dioressence has all these characteristics of a chypre. The citrus head of bergamot is quickly wrapped with a fruity orange note and a certain waxy sheen of fruity aldehydes, which immediately gives the fragrance a certain weight and makes it clear that this is going to be a great appearance. A certain musty, green-sour resoluteness is present immediately after spraying on, without one knowing what creates this impression, but it is immediately clear: This is a chypre. Almost imperceptibly, a potpourri of wonderfully interwoven floral tones develops from this, which can hardly be distinguished. I mean to smell out carnations, like those that used to bloom in my grandma's garden, very lively and intense, bright, full of light. The much quoted bliss is now there. The oriental sidekick is made of cinnamon, which is very well perceived and which together with the ambered benzoe tones and vanilla, which have their appearance in the base, turns dioressence into an oriental chypre.
The base, and here I think the fragrance plays its best and most seductive card, is a wonderfully woody-moosy, slightly darkened affair, very powdery, slightly earthy-smoky. The fragrance still gives me a noticeable light rubbing in the nose, typical Chypre halt. At the latest now I would unconditionally recommend it to every chyprist, chypriot, chypriker and chyprene of both sexes without reservation.
Is the fragrance suitable for men? Oh, the lame, unnecessary subject. If he is too feminine, may he contribute his own Y chromosome. Works perfectly!
19 Replies
6.0 7.0 8.0 7.0/10
Oriane

96 Reviews
Oriane
Oriane
1
An Oak Moss Bomb!
This review is for the original, vintage formulation.

Top Notes: Aldehydes, Orange, Fruity Notes, Patchouli, Green Notes, Bergamot.

Heart Notes: Carnation, Tuberose, Cinnamon, Violet, Orris, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Rose, Geranium.

Base Notes: Musk, Patchouli, Benzoin, Vanilla, Oak Moss, Vetiver, Styrax.

Dioressence was launched in 1979. The nose behind this fragrance is Guy Robert.

To my nose, this is very much a classic chypre despite the fact that there is no labdanum listed in the notes pyramid. I detect a huge oak moss note that dominates the entire composition from top to bottom and from beginning to end. I do detect some florals, most notably rose, geranium, and a tiny hint of carnation, but the florals are dominated by the oak moss and green notes. I detect aldehydes, orange, and bergamot upon initial application, but they fade relatively quickly, albeit not as quickly as the top notes of many of today's fragrances. The one note that characterises Dioressence more than any other for me is the oak moss.

Dioressence smells trés chic, sophisticated, expensive and undeniably old school. It is very much a perfume of its era or even earlier than 1979. In fact, if I did not know better, I would have supposed it was launched in either the 1950s or 1960s. It is difficult to believe that this composition came at the end of the 1970s, just before the vogue for really big Orientals began in the early 1980s.

As it is so unmistakably wedded to its time period, I cannot imagine young women of today wearing Dioressence, but it is nonetheless an exemplar of the very high end chypre fragrances of its time. This is a fragrance for chypre worshippers more than anyone else, and it is a fragrance for those who love and tolerate oak moss very well in large doses. I like oak moss, but this is an oak moss bomb. Anyone who wants to know what real oak moss smells like should sample vintage Dioressence.

Longevity and sillage are good+. Projection is good. I applied it approximately eight hours ago and can still detect it on myself.

Fragrance: 7/10
Longevity: 8/10
Sillage: 7/10
Projection: 7/10
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Helpful Review    5
elusive
2013–I’ve seen some discussions online about the merits and pathologies of vintage perfume collecting. I’m live-and-let-live on this one. If it feels good, do it. But how far will you go for vintage? Me, not far. Of course my consolation prize is all of contemporary perfumery, so I’m not panicking.

But sometimes you can’t say no, yes? I’ve come across an old/new bottle of Dioressence edt from the ‘90s-‘00s. Dioressence the Tease, the Trap. Purported to have made the progression from old school, animalic grande dame to complete rubbish. To believe the stories, the vintage is the Grail, and the later reformulations weren’t worth pissing on.

So what vintage had I found? Fuck if I know, but it’s interesting. It’s not the monster that I suspect the original formulation was. But is it trash? Not at all. It’s a powdery, spicy oriental-chypre that’s built for human scale. Prim and upright but also tart and musky. More than a bit sweaty, actually. Dioressence has that come-hither yet stand-offish quality that old-school powdery perfumes conveyed so well.

2016— I’ve just found a wrapped and sealed bottle of pre-1980 Dioressence eau de toilette. This is the original version, composed by Guy Robert. It existed in its original formulation from 1969 to 1979 when it was reformulated by Max Gavarry. The bottle I found in 2013 was Gavarry’s.

Gavarry’s reformulation resembles the Robert original in that are both powdery, woody-floral chyprientals in a perfume-genre multi-culti sort of way. Gavarry’s started with a tart, funk-and-powder dynamic and spiciness in lieu of the animalic quality of the original but the drydown failed to keep up. It was tame in comparison to raspy balsamic drydowns found in other ‘70s-style oriental/chypre hybrids like Rochas Mystère and Lancome Magie Noire (both 1978) and Lancome’s Sikkim (1971.) Though both models of Dioressence cover a lot of the same territory, the evolution of the Robert version favors the classic oakmoss/amber drydown of a chypre and therefore seems more coherent. Its path is more logical than Gavarry’s which has its finger in a few too many pies.

From the perspective of 2016 both versions seem dated, but in 1979 I imagine the ‘new model’ read as more contemporary than the original Dioressence. As animal-sourced materials were fell out of favor, rich, spicy notes were used to give perfumes depth and richness. The Gavarry reboot fits in with the Cinnabar/Opium/Ispahan spiced-eggnog perfumes of the late ’70s. The original Dioressence was based at least to some extent on Miss Dior, a floral-animalic chypre from 1947, and would have seemed unstylish and outdated by 1979. Gavarry’s version made sense for its time, but from the angle of 2016, the original has the glamour of the coveted mid-century chypres. The Gavarry is like a ‘70s movie sequel by comparison. Less authenticky.

Dior continued to change Dioressence over the years, the name being the only continuity to the original. Quite unfortunately, Dioressence’s lasting contribution of perfume history is that it started Dior’s trend of continual, unacknowledged reformulation. Look no further than the bottomless pit of Dior Homme and Miss Dior Chérie reformulations. Actually, look further. The unambitious reformulations of Dior’s classics like Diorissimo, Diorling and Diorama—‘Les Créatures de Monsieur Dior’ I believe they’re called—are the logical and regrettable outcome of the repeated tinkering with Dioressence over the years.
10.0/10
Smellsogood

75 Reviews
Smellsogood
Smellsogood
Helpful Review    3
Dangerous Dior
This is for the vintage edt version in the ribbed glass bottles. Soft, warm, smooth and elegantly spiced. This somehow makes me think of mink coats and cigarettes in long holders. I love it, don't wear it that often but couldn't be without it.
7.5 7.5 7.0/10
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
2
Not Your Typical Old Lady Perfume!
I have no doubt that the dark, dry dusty roses and styrax would drive young perfumistas away from DIORESSENCE in droves screaming "old lady" and relaying anecdotes from their grandmother's retirement home. But patience pays off in this case, as the big dusty attic opening evolves eventually into a very modern-smelling slightly sweet patchouli drydown.

The initial aldehydes and citrus do not stand a real chance against their dark competitors, nor do they limn a sunlit path through the passages of this labyrinthine perfume filled with dried floral notes floating in resins. To my nose, this chypre, unlike MISS DIOR, veers much closer to the oriental than the floral aldehyde category.

DIORESSENCE opens as a fairly serious, dark and heavy affair with a somewhat overwhelming sillage. This is definitely not the sort of fragrance you want to reapply during the day--at least not if anyone else is around! Still, I find the complexity of this creation appealing and especially appreciate the surprising patchouli drydown, which has excellent staying power in the edt.
5.0/10
Awesomeness

247 Reviews
Awesomeness
Awesomeness
Helpful Review    2
Confused
I tested an edt sample from TPC. I love the wet, green opening in this, but it heads straight for business in about 10 minutes ... and that business is patchouli with just a bit of cinnamon & spice. It's quite likable but not what I was expecting from such a revered classic. It would probably wear much better on me in the dead of winter than in the heat of summer.

I later found a half bottle from an estate, and it is a completely different fragrance. It is not a patchouli-based fragrance. Instead, it is an oakmoss-based one, and I don't like it all. Chypre with a capital C.

Does this fragrance have two formulations? It certainly appears that way to me. I like the first one I tested, and I despise the second. Not even the same fragrance imo.
5.0 7.5 6.0/10
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
Helpful Review    3
Green and earthy
Dioressence is green, powdery love. I'm a young woman and I really like this fragrance.

The opening is quite strong and chemical in a sense. Dioressence establishes the earthy greeness in the top notes, which is then followed by intense aldehydes and delicate fruits.

The heart makes way for the introduction of beautiful floral accords, mostly white florals, and sweet yet spicy cinnamon. The combination is almost heavenly.

I curse those that call Dioressence 'old lady'. I've never heard such nonsense in all my life. This may be the most recent re-formulated version, however I don't find this fragrance unpleasant in the slightest. The original may have been better, but the most current version still has avid fans.

The drydown is deliciously soft and somewhat sweet. Vanilla is the highlight here, with the patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss and musk creating an atmosphere behind it all.

The lasting power is wonderfully good, however the sillage is quite soft. I like this aspect, as it makes Dioressence quite mysterious. I often wonder why Dioressence is one of Dior's most overlooked fragrances. It's a pity that releases like the Poison series and Miss Dior Cherie tend to shadow some of Dior's earlier masterpieces.

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