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02/03/2020
CD1810
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When Dior was making fragrances with character
I admit that what I'm writing now is perhaps only a tribute to Eau Sauvage Parfum (2012) in part and a swan song to the Dior brand in part. Because in addition to Eau Sauvage Parfum I also mention, and not too briefly, the current, very successful fragrances from Mr. Damachy's Dior chemistry set. This is probably forever yesterday and, in addition, quite culturally pessimistic.
But I can't and don't like to do otherwise, because that which just once again delights me on the wrist after a long time has so much strength, stubbornness and character that it deserves a tribute, combined with a swan song to a house that is apparently only able to launch unspecific fragrances at ever shorter intervals.
Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum is only eight years old in my version of 2012 and seems to be out of time. Strong bergamot at the beginning is the connection to the wonderfully floating original, but in my case it is accompanied almost instantly by extremely potent myrrh. The latter then very soon pushes strongly into the foreground, leaving only a hint of the original. I like this scratchy, smoky myrrh very much, it makes the fragrance unmistakable and unique. After a good hour it is also only slightly cushioned by a grassy sweetness of vetiver. If you believe the comments on parfumo about the reformulation that appeared five years later, which did away with myrrh and which I don't know, in 2017 (i.e. just three years ago) Eau Sauvage Parfum even managed to improve and accentuate Eau Sauvage Parfum again closer to the original, without giving up its originality and potency. As I said, I can't judge that.
I can say, however, that Dior apparently no longer intends to launch such powerful, high-quality fragrances: even the magnificent Dior Homme recently underwent a complete redesign towards contourlessness. Heaven knows what else LVHM is up to with Homme intense. The very idea gives me the creeps! And about Sauvage and its offshoots I cover the (old, so dusty) cloak of silence.
I suppose that's the problem: Fragrances in the designer area are no longer made for "dusty" people like me or my age (46). All others, who like the "new Dior", are welcome to do so and you may please be lenient with me regarding my tirade on Dior.
But perhaps there are more perfumers I speak or write to from the depths of my soul who are mourning the not-so-long ago days when Dior was still making fragrances with character.
But I can't and don't like to do otherwise, because that which just once again delights me on the wrist after a long time has so much strength, stubbornness and character that it deserves a tribute, combined with a swan song to a house that is apparently only able to launch unspecific fragrances at ever shorter intervals.
Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum is only eight years old in my version of 2012 and seems to be out of time. Strong bergamot at the beginning is the connection to the wonderfully floating original, but in my case it is accompanied almost instantly by extremely potent myrrh. The latter then very soon pushes strongly into the foreground, leaving only a hint of the original. I like this scratchy, smoky myrrh very much, it makes the fragrance unmistakable and unique. After a good hour it is also only slightly cushioned by a grassy sweetness of vetiver. If you believe the comments on parfumo about the reformulation that appeared five years later, which did away with myrrh and which I don't know, in 2017 (i.e. just three years ago) Eau Sauvage Parfum even managed to improve and accentuate Eau Sauvage Parfum again closer to the original, without giving up its originality and potency. As I said, I can't judge that.
I can say, however, that Dior apparently no longer intends to launch such powerful, high-quality fragrances: even the magnificent Dior Homme recently underwent a complete redesign towards contourlessness. Heaven knows what else LVHM is up to with Homme intense. The very idea gives me the creeps! And about Sauvage and its offshoots I cover the (old, so dusty) cloak of silence.
I suppose that's the problem: Fragrances in the designer area are no longer made for "dusty" people like me or my age (46). All others, who like the "new Dior", are welcome to do so and you may please be lenient with me regarding my tirade on Dior.
But perhaps there are more perfumers I speak or write to from the depths of my soul who are mourning the not-so-long ago days when Dior was still making fragrances with character.
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