"...a man who has tried to create an exuberant, flowery world."
These are the words that end the documentary "Die Zeichnungen von Christian Dior", which ARTE broadcast yesterday evening.
Actually for my habits a bit too late, but the appeal that these traditional fashion houses and their stories still exert on me outweighed: I was not disappointed!
Christian Dior's drawings, which had been locked in a secret archive for decades, were presented to former employees and fashion historians, among others, who commented on them after the first amazement had settled over this unknown treasure.
And they told of their time at the fashion house Christian Dior; a 93-year-old, very elegant and still very chic lady had even worked with the great master from 1951 until his death in October 1957. What could she report!
I was particularly interested in this look behind the scenes, because a few years ago I had seen the cinema documentary "Dior and I".
She, too, led the inner life of the company after Belgian industrial and fashion designer Raf Simons succeeded John Galliano as artistic director in 2012.
Not a very happy relationship: when the designer changes from "Prês-à-Porter" to Haute Couture and is unaware that the wishes of a customer who buys two collections every year for more than 500,000 euros each are in front of her.
The chief directrice has to fly to New York to change the wardrobe.
Even if M. Simons has his first cuts transferred to fabric and tried out.
Raf Simons then moved to Calvin Klein in New York in 2015. There he probably has a lucky hand, as in this, basically still according to the ideas of Christian Dior managed traditional company.
As early as February 1947, Christian Dior presented his first own fashion collection, which Harper's Bazaar (already an institution at that time) called "New Look" for the first time in an article
Both the drawings and the models shown in the film still have their own charm today.
The "A", "H" and/or "Y" line adapts to every figure: here the woman is still quite a woman!
Christian Dior, "the tender man with great business sense", presented with it, as a kind of "counterrevolution" against the fashion of Mademoiselle Chanel, a theatrical and also provocative fashion, mostly still made of dyed parachute silk.
"Europe has had enough of bombs; it wanted fireworks" were his words.
In the same year Christian Dior presented his perfume "Miss Dior" as the last proof of the return of opulence.
He wanted to seduce his customers with this fragrance, because he considered it to be an indispensable complement to the female personality, the "final touch of a dress".
"Miss Dior" was intended to evoke "the scents of evenings in Provence", "where fireflies buzz and the green jasmine forms the counterpoint to the melody of the night and the earth". (OT: Christian Dior)
Paul Vacher thus created for him a fragrance full of contrasts: fresh notes with a warm heart.
At that time it was called "a green chypre scent with an animal echo".
(All these historical statements can be found in various publications about M. Dior.)
If you still own one of the original flacons today, you will truly own a treasure.
Who knows, perhaps a forgotten specimen is still slumbering in an attic or cellar.
I "only" have the eau de toilette (original) of "Miss Dior", which I had really forgotten until last night I thought about the TV documentary I saw.
And already this is a treasure that does not deny its opulence, but presents it full and sensual on the skin with amazing fullness and durability.
Right in advance: all "opponents" of Eichemoos should avoid this "Miss Dior"!
For its earthy heaviness is the basis of this work of art, which permeates the entire course of fragrance.
This is probably the reason why I don't find gardenia as disturbing as it might otherwise be.
Because of course it is also generously available, but has to deal with bergamot and - very amazing! - herby-spicy sage the first appearance.
Thus, the wort already occurs before Galbanum's resin note is added.
Even with the Eau de Toilette this is already a huge scent explosion!
At home, the now almost wasteful flowering dream remains: there are no exotic plants, but garden plants such as narcissus and the "ordinary" spicy carnation, the heavily scented large-flowered jasmine and, of course, the noble rose.
The only exception here is Neroli, the oil that makes the soul smile. - And the soul really smiles here!
All this beauty is stored unmistakably on spicy oakmoss.
Generously golden-glowing patchouli and sensual sandalwood are added and this fragrance composition is crowned by the resin of the cistus rose, the smoky Labdanum!
The result is a scented painting that is almost devotional: a little old-fashioned perhaps in its opulence, but still spectacular in effect and radiance!
With this almost original "Miss Dior" the house Christian Dior appreciates the femininity full of devotion and felt almost awesome!
Here is nothing with "unisex"; feminine sensuality rules the world of fragrance!
Since yesterday evening I have been wondering how I overlooked the little grey-white box with the square bottle for so long; it is in the middle of my fragrance collection!
I'm a little ashamed of it, but I'm doubly glad that I saw this TV documentary and was reminded of a dream scent, which for so long led a kind of "Cinderella" existence with me.
Fortunately, it is not too late to enjoy a good portion of fragrance today