Philosykos 1996Eau de Toilette

Philosykos (Eau de Toilette) by Diptyque
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Philosykos (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Diptyque for women and men and was released in 1996. The scent is green-fresh. It is being marketed by Manzanita Capital. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

Fig, Fig leaf, Fig wood, Black pepper

Ratings

Scent

7.8 (406 Ratings)

Longevity

6.5 (286 Ratings)

Sillage

6.0 (282 Ratings)

Bottle

7.7 (278 Ratings)
Submitted by DirkDS, last update on 23.10.2020.
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Reviews

8.5
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
9
Bottle
Itchynose

38 Reviews
Itchynose
Itchynose
   4  
The Rite of Spring
There is a fig tree in my back garden that keeps me busy all year round. Branches grow and extend all over the place and regardless of how many I manage to chop one year twice as many will take their place the following season.

During spring the garden is taken over by bees and bugs and in late summer, once the figs start dropping from the branches like hand grenades the insects multiply. Any attempt at gardening will leave me bitten, stung and with plenty of decomposing fig pulp stuck to my soles.

In autumn the massive fig leaves have turned brown and started to fall, waiting for the rain that will turn them into a wet and musty blanket all over the floor. Before winter arrives the last gardening tasks of the year are completed in preparation for the cycle to start again only a few months later.

Philosykos brings me back to this garden every time I spray it: I can smell the wet leaves, the wood and branches as they go through the seasons: very green and fresh during the spring-like opening, more woody as the scent evaporates with the summer heat and almost earthy during the autumn-like drydown. It smells clean, transparent and natural but also at times milky with an almost rubbery feeling, bringing to mind sticky sap. Since the fragrance recreates the entire tree and not just the fruit it remains a perfectly unisex fragrance throughout, light and easy to wear by anyone almost all year round.

One day I wlil move to another place and no longer have a fig tree to keep me busy throughout the year but I will always keep a decant or two of Philosykos to bring those memories back.
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle
7BlackSeas
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7BlackSeas
7BlackSeas
Very helpful Review    9  
Mediterranean moment of happiness
Somewhere in the Mediterranean along the coast. A garden with fig trees. Rocky, rugged coastal landscape. Fresh, tepid summer wind carried from the sea to the land.

Philosykos begins green-splashy. You can almost feel the leaves of the fig tree in your hands, when rubbing them together the green-aromatic scent escapes, mixed with the tart skin of the fig fruit.
While the tart green notes then fade further and further into the background, the focus in the heart note is on the fruit juice of the freshly cut fig. Later the fruit juice changes more and more to a creamy, delicate fig milk.

Fresh.
Soft.
Gentle.
Creamy.
One of a kind.
Enchanting.

Philosykos was a revelation for me. The first summer scent that stood out completely from everything that I had known about scents until then and completely enchanted me.

The durability is very reasonable for a summer scent (and, mind you, an EDT), I can perceive the scent for about 6 hours The Sillage is not room-filling - it doesn't have to be here at all, but the scent is still perceptible for the immediate surroundings over a longer period of time.
I find the design of the flacon to be exceptionally beautiful with a high recognition value.
4 Replies
10
Scent
7
Longevity
5
Sillage
10
Bottle
Tragician
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Tragician
Tragician
Very helpful Review    11  
Of blue nights and old sandstone walls
I became aware of Diptyque through another scent - I was looking for a vanilla I could make friends with after a while and tested Eau Duelle - and stood in a well-known time-honoured department store in front of the marble counter with the beautiful oval bottles lined up. Eau Duelle was tasted and I was still not a glowing vanilla fan. And because I am curious, I took another bottle in my hand and sprayed some of it on a test strip.

Actually I don't believe in love at first sight and normally I have to get a little warm with scents. But what I smelled here was special. It is said that the olfactory sense is most strongly connected with memory, and that's exactly what Philosykos does with me: he evokes memories. I breathed in and I remembered: Rome in the summer a few years ago, the burning sun, a park on a hill high above the breathless city, where I lay reading and looking up at the sky. To roaming around in the dark blue nights, through ancient streets still warm from the relentless sunshine, to the warm walls of sandstone that seemed to glow under my hand. To getting lost in the foreign land and the very own silent adventures that result from it. It was all there, before my eyes, in the middle of the grey December.

In the radiant Rome of my memory, there is no fig to be found (at least not consciously); perhaps it is rather the lush green, as if one were to tear a leaf from the tree and grind it between one's fingers in the afternoon heat, or the fig tree wood, which smells soft and warm, that evokes these associations.
For me, Philosykos is not a fragrance but a feeling, overburdened and at the same time somewhat melancholic, a memory. And even though its durability is a little weak and even though I have to ask people to whom I want to introduce my great love of fragrance to come very close with their nose, I love it.
5 Replies
7.5
Scent
6
Longevity
5
Sillage
5
Bottle
Aolani
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Aolani
Aolani
Very helpful Review    12  
Beautiful fig leaf scent
The first spray beamed me under a fig tree into a garden at the Mediterranean Sea. It is early in the morning, through the green fig leaf roof a light breeze is blowing from the sea. The air is fresh and clear. The first flower buds open. They timidly show their faces to the young day. At the foot of the gnarled, twisted trunk lies a burst fig, from which a sweet scent emanates. A wasp circles around the fruit, a whirring, then silence. In my back I feel the smooth bark and look upwards - a green umbrella of five-lobed leaves protects me. The fig leaf - one hand. In my mind's eye Adam and Eve appear, painted by Dürer, the shame covered with foliage, Eve holding the apple in her hand. We're still in paradise. They were apple tree leaves and not fig leaves, where did the fig leaves come from, I still think, then I fall asleep. A siren in my ears - I wake up. It itches. A mosquito bite. I pick a fig leaf, drizzle the latex on the red spot. Sunlight flickers through the treetop and conjures up a green-golden roof. The trunk in my back smells woody-warm. I'm happy.
8 Replies
9
Scent
6
Longevity
7
Sillage
6
Bottle
FvSpee
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FvSpee
FvSpee
Top Review    25  
Philosykos or How I became a fig friend
I've liked figs for 20 years - for eating. Both the dried fruit and the beautiful fleshy fresh fruit. I remember my first fresh fig, I picked it from a wild fig tree in Croatia in the 90s, as a culinary awakening experience.

So although I have a positive basic attitude towards figs, my olfactory path to becoming a fig friend was rocky (though always upwards). Not counting any short tests of other fragrances that I hadn't memorized, it all started with "Premier Figuier" by "L'Artisan Parfumeur", a fragrance I had the highest expectations of, which were terribly disappointed. I found the scent gruesome and smelled almost only cheap coconut milk lemonade from the Asian snack bar. Then I tried "Feige" from the house of "Harry Lehmann", which I greatly appreciated, and was again very disappointed. Somehow too soft, musty, sweetish. I liked "Fico di Amalfi" from "Acqua di Parma" much better, and "Jardins de Kérylos" from "Parfumerie Générale" really good. But Diptyque has now shot down the fig with this product here, with the fig friend.

The fragrance has been described here many times, perhaps most beautifully and aptly from my point of view by Gaukeleya, and whether I can add anything substantial to it, I do not know.

Especially at the beginning, "Philosykos" spreads enormously cheerful, almost sparkling green notes (Frau von Spee in the blind test immediately associated "grass"), but in the end, for me it is a light blue, light, very free, wide scent. The fig fruit and its Mediterranean environment is wonderfully captured olfactorically - the coconut note, which disturbed me so terribly in "Premier Figuier" and which is also contained here according to the fragrance pyramid, is hardly noticeable to me, at most as a fine rounding off. If the fig is the focus of a fragrance, then a certain fruity sweetness can hardly be missing, but this one doesn't come across as mushy, but discreet and with an almost noble dryness, as if a touch of icing sugar is blowing through the sunny air.

Looking at the critical reviews here, the main criticisms seem to be that the fragrance is a bit one-dimensional and underdeveloped, and that it's too feminine for a unisex scent. I cannot agree with the first point for two reasons: Firstly, I don't find "Philosykos" to be at all unrefined and linear, and secondly I don't have any problems with soliflores, whose scent is as straight as a motorway in Italy - as long as it's beautiful. As for the second point of criticism, yes, I too find the fragrance rather (!) feminine, but not in such a way that a man could not use it with pleasure. Philoyskos is really not "unmanly"! And anyway: a real guy, or an average man in a masculine or classic men's wardrobe, with a fruity or flowery scent is perhaps especially interesting!
The shelf life is about 6 hours for me, very close to the skin maybe 9, and the sillage is restrained after the starting phase, but not annoyingly low. In itself quite a friend of long shelf life, I find it exactly fitting in this case. If necessary, you can add more at 14 o'clock, then the fragrance lasts the whole day
I was wondering if the fact that every time I tested a fig scent I found it better than the one I had tried before might simply indicate that I am getting used to fig as a scent. It may be that there is something to it, but nevertheless I believe that "Philosykos" is an unusually well-done scent. Its obvious commercial success speaks for itself: Although "Diptyque" isn't exactly mainstream right now (as I discovered the label, I described it in episode 4 of the Berliner Duftspazieränge, which I blogged about here a few days ago), it has 169 owners here at Parfumo and is listed on many wish and watch lists, and it was the starting point for several flankers at the manufacturer, from Philosykos EdP to the solid perfume to the special edition and, and, and, and...

My personal conclusion: 9 points (because who knows, maybe the upward path will continue and I will discover a still more beautiful fig scent, I need room to move up) and wish list.
9 Replies
Steve0580

31 Reviews
Steve0580
Steve0580
Helpful Review    3  
Good but Weak
This is a fragrance where there is a huge difference between the EDT and EDP. I couldn't stand the EDT but love the EDP. I started out sampling but ended up buying a full bottle of the EDP.

I'm going to admit that I don't really know what a fig smells like. I do know what coconut smells like and I don't get a heavy coconut smell out of this. It must be mixed very well, because neither the fig or coconut is overpowering.

What I do smell is a VERY green fragrance. It reminds me of the smell of breaking open a new green branch on a maple tree in the spring.

The fragrance is good but unfortunately, at least on me, it suffers sillage and longevity problems. Even with 6 or so sprays of the EDP, it's a soft fragrance with only moderate longevity. I bought it direct from the Diptyque website, so I'm sure it's not counterfeit and I highly doubt that it's old stock - it's just the way the fragrance is.

If you like a soft, green fragrance with moderate longevity, buy it but as far as I'm concerned, I won't rebuy based on how weak it is.
8
Scent
Quarry

5 Reviews
Quarry
Quarry
Helpful Review    4  
Cheery + Calming = Comforting
I am so attracted to fragrances with green notes that I often overlook the green qualities that every other reviewer mentions in their first sentence. Philosykos green? I hadn’t noticed. I think of Thymes Fig Leaf & Cassis or Jo Malone Wild Fig & Cassis as green, but Philosykos? To me it's all about being creamy, creamy, creamy fig (with fig being incomparable to any other scent except perhaps that of dates). The coconut adds sweetness without announcing itself individually. Philosykos runs fairly linearly, yet never strikes me as boring, which even the illustrious Lutens Feminité de Bois can be for me. The scent doesn’t throw far from the skin and is so subtle as to possibly be perceived by passersby only subliminally. I would wear Philosykos in regular rotation if my husband weren’t put off by fig in any formulation.
1 Replies
7
Scent
7.5
Longevity
5
Sillage
10
Bottle
JManDave

10 Reviews
JManDave
JManDave
Helpful Review    6  
Fig/Coconut Goodness - EDP
This review is for the EDP concentration. I want to add my voice to the group praising Philosykos, this was my entry to Diptyque, and based on its strength I suspect I'll be adding some more through this season.

Thanks to the previous reviews, I knew I'd be in for a nice treat when I went to smell this one; and a treat it was! I haven't tried any of the other fig-based frags yet, so maybe they just all smell this good, but this was a very welcome change-up from the usual cologne offerings.

What I read on the open is a very fresh, fruity (fig), leafy top. This part is fantastic, and lasted around 30 minutes. I noticed that the fig retreated a bit after that and the coconut note came a bit more to the forefront afterward, providing a counterbalancing scent, as well as just a touch of sweetness. Based on other reviews, it seems that the EDT may have a more pronounced fig note, just as an FYI, but fig is definitely noticeable in the EDP as well.

This one did evolve some during the heart and drydown, but never resorting to the tried-and-true powdery or musky notes I get in so many other scents - which can be boring. I honestly think I'd have a hard time describing this drydown precisely, because it's well-blended. In any event, it evolved "nicely", I'll settle for that.

I know the "natural-smelling" catch-phrase is overused, but this one definitely strikes my nose as being more like something I'd smell outdoors in the Summer, than something that comes out of a beaker. Scent-wise it's top-shelf.

Given that the concentration on this bottle is EDP, it had the expected, to maybe slightly less longevity, sillage and projection than I'd expect. It wore fine, but it's not a beast by any stretch. Probably 5 hrs good wear for me on the first couple of wearings in hot Houston, TX weather.

The scent is unisex to slightly feminine, I'd say. No issues pulling it off, I think in a casual scenario any guy could, really. However, much to my dismay the GF didn't like this at all. Which was surprising, because she likes fresh/sweetish scents normally, likes coconut, and she's part Greek. Silly me, I figured this would be a homerun - just a word to the guys who are looking for a date day/night frag - this one might need GF approval first :)

I wouldn't recommend this for workplace wear, it sure presents itself as a personal, casual scent.

Recommended, and highly enough that I will be back at the Diptyque counter again, smelling some of the other little gems.
1 Replies
7
Scent
7.5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
   4  
Airy Fig
Greysolon asked a great question earlier today: how does Heeley FIGUIER compare with Diptyque PHILOSYKOS? As I was thinking about the differences between the two creations, it occurred to me that I had yet to review PHILOSYKOS here at Parfumo, so this seemed like the perfect time!

I have to confess that I did not buy my bottle of PHILOSYKOS. It was included as an extra thrown in as a part of a multi-swap which I made with a wonderful woman from Vancouver. She had used about half her 100 ml bottle and apparently "hit the wall", so to speak. This happens sometimes with fig perfumes, it seems.

How lucky I felt, since based on an earlier cursory test I would probably not have selected this before some of the other Diptyque creations, but having found myself with a bottle, I began to wear it now and then and eventually came to realize how much I appreciate the scent.

To me PHILOSYKOS, like FIGUIER, is an open, fresh and completely composition. The difference may seem subtle, but it's patent if one compares the two creations side-by-side. The Heeley is very, very green and very, very wet. The Diptyque is slightly green but not drenched in water and a little bit sweeter. I feel the fruit in this composition where I do not so much in the Heeley, probably because the green is so heightened that it shrouds the sweetness from my nose. When I say that PHILOSYKOS is not drenched in water, I mean that it is much less moist than FIGUIER, which I likened to a fig tree in the middle of a rainforest. Greysolon has hit on the perfect term: misty. I also like his comparison of this PHILOSYKOS to a watercolor painting. To me this creation feels like a breeze: cool and airy.

PHILOSYKOS offers a perfect blend of fig and fig leaf, along with the lightest touch of coconut and a good dose of light woods. The cedar is quite evident, and it smells natural and fresh. My bottle is of the eau de toilette, not the eau de parfum, so I cannot offer any insights into the differences between the two, but Comrade Aromi has tried both (see below).

What I like most of all about PHILOSYKOS is that it creates an atmosphere of tranquility. I feel that this genre is very similar to what Jean-Claude Ellena has since done with the Hermès Jardin series.
10
Scent
Greysolon

88 Reviews
Greysolon
Greysolon
Helpful Review    7  
Misty morning perfection
Philosykos has a well deserved status as one of the classic fig scents. If you read reviews on other forums and blogs there is near universal love for this airy, cool, green fig fragrance by Olivia Giacobetti. Smelling Philosykos immediately brings to my mind a watercolor painting with the medium's ability to capture transparency and delicacy. Philosykos does, however, gain warmth and depth as it dries down. A subtle coconut note gives the impression of figs ripening in the sun. But our watercolor vision of the fruit never gets so ripe it falls from the branch and develops the molasses, dried fruit accord found in other fig fragrances. It's just subtle brushstrokes of maroon and brown on each fig to capture the essence of maturing fruit.

My real addiction to Olivia Giacobetti's work is the aura of misty cool, green accords she created for Philosykos and her other classic, En Passant. This transparent wash can only be described as the aura of a cool, dewy morning with subtle accords of green leaves and grass. Seriously, people must think I have some weird physical affect when I wear Philosykos because I'm continually lifting my wrist to my nose to get an addict's hit of the experience. And I'm sure Giacobetti could use that watercolor motif as a background for any floral or garden scent although I hope she never falls for the easy repetition of its success. It's such a signature artistic achievement that it would be a shame if -as I'll call it- the "misty morning" accord became known for its overuse rather than its truly unique qualities.
2 Replies

Statements

ItchynoseItchynose 16 months ago
8.5
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
9
Bottle
Possibly the reference niche fig fragrance by which all others are measured. Slightly fresher and lighter than the woodier EdP version.

Perfume Classification by the Community


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