I've liked figs for 20 years - for eating. Both the dried fruit and the beautiful fleshy fresh fruit. I remember my first fresh fig, I picked it from a wild fig tree in Croatia in the 90s, as a culinary awakening experience.
So although I have a positive basic attitude towards figs, my olfactory path to becoming a fig friend was rocky (though always upwards). Not counting any short tests of other fragrances that I hadn't memorized, it all started with "Premier Figuier" by "L'Artisan Parfumeur", a fragrance I had the highest expectations of, which were terribly disappointed. I found the scent gruesome and smelled almost only cheap coconut milk lemonade from the Asian snack bar. Then I tried "Feige" from the house of "Harry Lehmann", which I greatly appreciated, and was again very disappointed. Somehow too soft, musty, sweetish. I liked "Fico di Amalfi" from "Acqua di Parma" much better, and "Jardins de Kérylos" from "Parfumerie Générale" really good. But Diptyque has now shot down the fig with this product here, with the fig friend.
The fragrance has been described here many times, perhaps most beautifully and aptly from my point of view by Gaukeleya, and whether I can add anything substantial to it, I do not know.
Especially at the beginning, "Philosykos" spreads enormously cheerful, almost sparkling green notes (Frau von Spee in the blind test immediately associated "grass"), but in the end, for me it is a light blue, light, very free, wide scent. The fig fruit and its Mediterranean environment is wonderfully captured olfactorically - the coconut note, which disturbed me so terribly in "Premier Figuier" and which is also contained here according to the fragrance pyramid, is hardly noticeable to me, at most as a fine rounding off. If the fig is the focus of a fragrance, then a certain fruity sweetness can hardly be missing, but this one doesn't come across as mushy, but discreet and with an almost noble dryness, as if a touch of icing sugar is blowing through the sunny air.
Looking at the critical reviews here, the main criticisms seem to be that the fragrance is a bit one-dimensional and underdeveloped, and that it's too feminine for a unisex scent. I cannot agree with the first point for two reasons: Firstly, I don't find "Philosykos" to be at all unrefined and linear, and secondly I don't have any problems with soliflores, whose scent is as straight as a motorway in Italy - as long as it's beautiful. As for the second point of criticism, yes, I too find the fragrance rather (!) feminine, but not in such a way that a man could not use it with pleasure. Philoyskos is really not "unmanly"! And anyway: a real guy, or an average man in a masculine or classic men's wardrobe, with a fruity or flowery scent is perhaps especially interesting!
The shelf life is about 6 hours for me, very close to the skin maybe 9, and the sillage is restrained after the starting phase, but not annoyingly low. In itself quite a friend of long shelf life, I find it exactly fitting in this case. If necessary, you can add more at 14 o'clock, then the fragrance lasts the whole day
I was wondering if the fact that every time I tested a fig scent I found it better than the one I had tried before might simply indicate that I am getting used to fig as a scent. It may be that there is something to it, but nevertheless I believe that "Philosykos" is an unusually well-done scent. Its obvious commercial success speaks for itself: Although "Diptyque" isn't exactly mainstream right now (as I discovered the label, I described it in episode 4 of the Berliner Duftspazieränge, which I blogged about here a few days ago), it has 169 owners here at Parfumo and is listed on many wish and watch lists, and it was the starting point for several flankers at the manufacturer, from Philosykos EdP to the solid perfume to the special edition and, and, and, and...
My personal conclusion: 9 points (because who knows, maybe the upward path will continue and I will discover a still more beautiful fig scent, I need room to move up) and wish list.