Helpful Review 4
Memphis Milano, Post Design and the like. That's what I think of when I pick up the bottle of Bois d'Ombrie. A heavy, angular bottle, the two stickers, in Bordeaux and green, dark but still tending towards pastel, a vertically warped typography that all Swiss design bureaus would classify as pure heresy and on top a lid with stamped manufacturer's name carried by two late baroque sirens. If the original bottle of YSL's Jazz - black and white, plastic, zigzag shape - is the quintessential Memphis bottle although it was released in 1988, the bottles of Eau d'Italie clearly refer to the post-Memphis phase of the 80's in Italy. The brand, a by-product of an artisto-design-boutique hotel on the Amalfi Coast, and has one of Bertrand Duchaufour's most accomplished and elaborate perfumes in Bois d'Ombrie. In Duchaufour's manner, the perfume is meticulously tightly woven, playful, surreal-hyperrealistic, explicitly synthetic as well as artificial. I smell not so much concrete forest as a construction that could easily stand alongside Kyoto, Sequoia, Rosewood, Calamus or even Dzonga. Earth, thunder, smoke, cognac, iris, vetiver, none of it explicit and with many shades in between that make it hard to grasp as a whole after all. Superb!