Dawn by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
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Dawn is a new perfume by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle for women and men and was released in 2018. The scent is oriental-resinous. Projection and longevity are above-average. It is being marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.

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Perfumer

Carlos Benaïm

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesTurkish rose, Pink pepper
Heart Notes Heart NotesTurkish rose absolute, Frankincense
Base Notes Base NotesOakmoss, Vetiver, Labdanum, Oud

Ratings

Scent

8.2 (16 Ratings)

Longevity

8.8 (15 Ratings)

Sillage

8.2 (15 Ratings)

Bottle

8.0 (20 Ratings)
Submitted by Ravenous, last update on 03.05.2019
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Reviews

8.0 4.0 8.0 5.5/10
StellaDiverF

213 Reviews
StellaDiverF
StellaDiverF
1
Unimaginative amber/incense oud
Frederic Malle Dawn opens with a quite fierce oud. It has the similarly animalic, sour and fermented aspects like the Indian oud in The Night. However, instead of a full-on barnyard stroll, it also clearly exhibits a rubbery facet that fits the profile of Laotian oud that I've encountered so far. As a result, Dawn is indeed lighter than The Night, but overall speaking it's still fairly animalic as an oud perfume.

However, like The Night, the authentic oud characteristics in Dawn retreat to the background rather quickly, and what's left is only a softly sweet and resinous woody backbone with flickers of rose petals. Moreover, it's gradually consumed by a standard olibanum incense and labdanum amber accord, and further dried out by a discreet touch of woody amber aromachemicals, to the extent that the dry down after about 4 hours is almost solely a desiccating incense than anything smelling remotely of oud.

I got a medium to soft sillage with Dawn and a longevity of at least 8 hours on my skin.

For me, The Night and Dawn share the same syndrome: a fairly authentic oud opening undermined by ubiquitous, uninspiring rose and amber/incense accords. If Dawn was released two years ago, I would have recommended it along with The Night as an example of animalic oud to sample, because even though they're fairly standard and unimaginative, at least they showcase the animalic aspects of oud pretty well and are put out by a well-established brand. However, during these two years, many artisanal and independent brands have come up with oud perfumes either more authentic, more innovative, more sophisticated or more luxurious, and with a more interesting price at that. Therefore, I would not particularly recommend Dawn before other more interesting oud perfumes.
2 Replies
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Ravenous

0 Reviews
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Ravenous
Ravenous
Very helpful Review    4
Spiritual Oud
After the night the dawn comes after a promise has been made.
Carlos Benaïm begins the day with a good portion of pepper.
The Turkish rose is not yet awake.
But already generously incense was burned.
Now a medical/leathery oud (allegedly from Laos) comes to the fore.
Furthermore, the Turkish rose keeps shyly in the background and generally never appears big.
The oak moss as well as the vetiver have no concession against the incense and the oud and float very far in the distance.
The Labdanum gives the frankincense again a lot of power and Dawn has a very spiritual character for me.
The fragrance did not have a great development, which I like very much about this masterly creation and which perfectly reflects the name and its meaning.
Those who are fed up with the tons of rose-ud scents will get a calming and surprisingly different oriental The shelf life ranges from dawn to deep night with a very present and flattering Sillage.
Carlos Benaïm has created with this fragrance a spiritual and different Oud which I do not want to miss anymore.
Due to the cool and not balsamic heavy character I feel Dawn is even suitable for all seasons.
After The Night and Promise Dawn adds another masterpiece to the Desert Gems.

Regarding the price I will not comment because everyone can decide for himself if he buys it or not.
As already mentioned below some people pay enormous prices for an ugly-kitschy Roja or Clive Christian....
1 Replies

Statements

SmellGoodGuy 9 months ago
A very nice and unique fragrance. The frankincense, oud, and rose are the more dominant notes, in that order. TBC+1
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